all.my.caminos

newclean6

2012-01-31T08:31:00.000-08:00

NEWCLEAN

January 1, 2010

Happy New year!

As the Año Santo Jacobeo begins and all pilgrims
prepare to follow their Camino may I share with you
this lovely prayer from Santa Maria de Eunate

"May the way open to meet you,
May the wind be always at your back,
May the sun shine warm upon your face,
May the rain fall softly upon your fields,
And, until we meet again,
May God hold you in the palm of his hand."

In five days I leave on my Sixth Camino!

Starting out again in winter, alone at 70 my
emotions include both anticipation and trepidation.

As always I wonder how it all will go. My reasons
for the journey include non-traditional spiritual ones
giving thanks for my life so far as well as the
excitement of another new adventure.

As it is written in Psalm 119:45
"And I will walk at liberty: for I seek thy precepts."

My shell, staff and backpack are ready.
As Sir Walter Raleigh wrote in the 16th century

"GIVE me my scallop-shell of quiet,
My staff of faith to walk upon,
My scrip of joy, immortal diet,
My bottle of salvation,
My gown of glory, hope's true gage;
And thus I'll take my pilgrimage...."

May we all walk in peace and good will.

Ultreia!

.....Later in Comments

........Sil said...Keep warm, stay safe: wishing you open, friendly albergues and winter sunshine. You are an inspiration. Abrazo,

........Sandy wrote...Hi, I'm looking forward to following along with you on this journey. My mother and I stayed at your B&B two years ago.

........Anon noted... The prayer from Eunate is an English translation of an old Irish blessing.Wishing you safe walking and Buen Camino.

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January 7, 2010

Away at Last

Yesterday was a crazy day! Bill and I got up well before dawn to drive to Paris and my TGV. It was minus 7 celsius when we left home. After our saying goodbye and a cold delay the train eventually left. All went well through the frosty countryside until an unscheduled stop at Poitiers!

Either gas or ice was frozen on the tracks so the train waited for 1 1/2 hours until the all clear. Needless to write many connections were lost including mine! I missed seeing the rolling hills between Bayonne and St Jean Pied de Port in daylight.

Luckily the albergue was open until 10. The last bus from Bayonne SHOULD have arrived at 7 or so but finally arrived at 8pm.

I stayed at 39 rue de la Citadelle with the Amis du Chemin de Saint-Jacques. Unfortunately their regular Albergue is under renovation so Mme Jeannine, the famous hospitalero of the past years was not on the scene. St Jean Pied de Port just wasn't the same without her.

Four other pilgrims were there; all guys from Austria, England, France and South Korea. We shared the common dorm and breakfast this morning offered by the volunteer hospitaleros.

The photo is a view west along the rue de le Citadelle this morning before dawn as I started walking.

.....Later in Comments

........Sandy said...Well, in the theater they say that a shaky dress rehearsal ensures a great opening night...hopefully this sort of thing is in play for you, too!

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January 8, 2010

Roncevalles

Last night I stayed at the very comfortable municipal albergue in Valcarlos. New and well designed it is great. I was the only pilgrim and slept for 12 hours!

Valcarlos, a Spanish village close to the border and within the Pyrenees, is named after a legendary battle. When Charlemagne (Carlos) fought the Moors and lost he retreated to a valley near here. Hopefully I will NOT need to retreat! On to Roncevalles.

( Later) It was a 6 hour trek to get to the monastery at Roncevalles. Wind, ice and snow made the climb up the Ibaneta pass extremely tiring. I am pooped!

A young guy from Hungary and 4 Spanish are also in the albergue. Outside is a winter wonderland and very cold.

.....Later in Comments

.......Bill said...Beautiful photo and how did you at age 70 climb six hours in the ice and snow up to Ibaneta? Amazing!

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January 9, 2010

To Espinal

Leaving the monastery at Roncevalles early in the morning I walked only a few kilometers to Espinal where I am staying in the pleasant Casa Rurale, Cristobalena. All is very cozy except the heat! My pleasant single room is 20 euros and inexpensive meals are available on request. All is very relaxed. Outside, however, there is lots of snow Will I be able to continue tomorrow ?

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January 10 and 11, 2010

To Trinidad de Arre

Yesterday was 20 cold, lonely kilometers across the mountain on the road in a light snow. The Camino itself was far too dangerous hidden under ice and snow to even consider. All I saw were a few horses and snowplows. Arrived at Zubiri by one pm which was great time considering the weather! Stayed in the very comfortable Pension Usoa where I have been twice before. The kind owner hugged me tightly before she showed me a warm, comfortable room.

Tonight the monastery at Trinidad de Arre is another story. It is freezing! The monk hospitalero who met me a the door was wearing a quilted ski parka and knitted cap with ear flaps. He resembled a wintery Michelin man. I have a tiny cell behind the altar with blankets but NO heat. Arriving here was difficult for the path was slick with ice. Hopefully I will be able to sleep since the monks have just brought me a tiny heater.

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January 12, 2010

Cizur Menor

Last night five minutes after the monk plugged in the heater all the electricity blew! It was FRIGID and BLACK all night. This morning ice covered all of Pamplona. After a brief visit at the cathedral I slipped and slid across the city. Many local people were falling and so did I! While crossing a foot bridge leading west from the city I fell, luckily landed on my pack but slid on the hard ice. After pulling myself up I slowly continued to the Roncal albergue. There are a few Spanish men also here; we all ate together at the good Asador restaurant near-by.

.....Later in Comments

.......Kialoa3 wrote...Great to hear that you are moving safely along. Your camino wisdom and many prayers will straighten the way.

.......John and Janet said ...We are following your journey again this year. Best of luck!

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January 13 - 17, 2010

At last Eunate

From Wednesday through Friday I was alone in the Tiebas municipal albergue. Located on the Aragonés Camino, this is a very simple hill-top town with a huge open pit (magnesium?) mine. There is no shop but the town bar sells basics, meals, and drinks as well serving as the "urban" hub.

Everyone was very kind. When I arrived on Wednesday shaking from exhaustion an elderly local on a bike walked me to the bar so I could "sign in" before collapsing. The bar lady quickly prepared a hot meal. The town engineer came to the albergue twice to check that the heat was working properly. It was. What a welcome change from glacial Trinidad de Arre!

Relatively revived after two full days of comfortable rest yesterday I moved on towards Eunate and Puente La Reina where the Camino Aragonés will join the Camino Frances.

By the time I reached Eunate I was shaking with intense pain from the simple act of walking. Nevertheless coming along the Camino and catching the first glimpse of this wonderful circular church "lost" in the ocher countryside was as always a thrill. Unfortunately the church and albergue were still closed for the winter. (Both will reopen on January 20.) I sat outside in a chill drizzle, gave thanks for being able to see this beloved spot once more and for coming as far as I had and then I wept. ...

And so today in pain and sadness I had to leave the Camino. Physically I may not be there, but sentimentally I will always wear my shell. ... Thanks for reading my blog and offering your comments.

Ultreia!

......Later in Comments

...........Kialoa3 said...Margaret, who can fathom the disappointment you must be feeling, yet wisdom prevails and your well being is the foremost concern. Your gracious and courageous spirit will continue to inspire many current and future pilgrims. Thank you for that gift. Safe travels.

..........Sil wrote...You might have left the Camino in body but not in spirit - and, the camino hasn't left you. It will be waiting to welcome you back when you are ready. Hugs

..........Anonymous noted...Margaret, I followed you all last year, and you are an inspiration for giving it your all. I can certainly understand your disappointment. Hope you got back home safely and are feeling better. Please let us know with a post-camino post!.
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February 3, 2010

A Dream Postponed

.
Two weeks ago I had to leave the Camino since I could neither stand nor walk without assistance. After returning to France the days were spent flat on my back recuperating. Now all is MUCH better!

Thank you for your kind comments and queries.

I plan to spend the next months rebuilding my strength and hope to continue my 6th Camino in the autumn after the summer season at our b&b here in champagne. Come visit us!

......Later in Comments

.........Anonymous said...Sending a prayer for health your way.

.........Kialoa3 noted...That's the spirit girl!

.........Elizabeth wrote...Oh, I'm sorry you had to leave. I was wondering why you'd want to walk it in January though? Why not wait until May?

.........Jim and Beth mentioned ...Followed your blog with admiration at your courage and spirit. To even attempt this once is an idea far beyond most of us. Thanks for being an inspiration to us all. We hope we get to visit with you and bill again.

.........An Australian said...You're an inspiration! Hope for the rebuilding of your strength.

.........Pilgrim Nell said...Eunate is such a special place- I think it's worthy of being a pilgrim destination in and of itself. Whatever laid you out Margaret must have been very bad indeed as you are a heck of gal! Bonne route for your Autumn Camino.

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July 23, 2010

Feast of Saint James

Soon it will be July 25, the long awaited Feast of St James. Since the day falls on a Sunday, 2010 is considered a Holy Year; the next will be in 2021. During next weekend multitudes will convene and celebrate this historic Catholic event in Santiago de Compostela.

The Spanish monarchs, governmental officials, church dignitaries, ordinary citizens, and, of course, thousands of actual pilgrims will be present. They will assemble to actively participate in age-old ecclesiastic pageantry and tradition. Imagine if they could be magically joined by all past pilgrims. Such a super-giant throng of celebrants would stretch back one thousand years!

Whatever their ethnicity or beliefs, all pilgrims who have walked the Camino share common bonds. All surely remember the special thrill on arrival at last at the great cathedral, touching the hallowed stones, weeping with joy, and giving thanks as the great bells tolled.

Sunday at home in France I shall, as always, also remember and listen for the far-distant bells.

Ultreia!

.

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October 4, 2010

Continuing

Soon I will be back on the Camino!! Almost nine months from the cold January day when I first began this year, once again I will be walking.

Summer has passed and Bill and I have seen many old friends and made new ones here at our B and B. Without Bill's care and encouragement as well as kind comments from readers I hardly would have dared to dream, but now it is possible for me to go, to continue my sixth Camino.

As always I shall make my pilgrimage for non-traditional spiritual reasons, giving thanks for each day lived and for our life together which enables such a journey.

Walking alone day after day I shall ponder varied aspects of the thousand-year history of this beloved route as well as recall several quotations which help define my personal creed. "But as for me, I will walk in mine integrity..." "I will walk in liberty for I seek thy precepts." Psalm 26:11 and 119:45 "No one saves us but ourselves. No one can and no one may. We ourselves must walk the path." Buddha

For those who wonder why a sixth Camino? One answer is "le cœur a ses raisons que la raison ne connaît pas/ the heart has its reasons, of which reason knows nothing." Pascal, Les Pensées

For those who wonder why I do this at 71? My answer is why not? "what then? shall we sit idly down and say the night has come; it is no longer day? The night hath not yet come;...For age is opportunity no less than youth itself, though in another dress, and as the evening twilight fades away the sky is filled with stars, invisible by day." Longfellow, Morituri Salutamus

Stars shining over my route in Spain will be the westward leading Milky Way known in colloquial Spanish as El Camino de Santiago.

Thus thankful, respectful and humble, but curious and with an ever eager heart, I continue.

Ultreia!

......Later in Comments

...........Paula & Robin said...Meredith, our thoughts and hearts are with you as you begin again. Today, daughter Teagan will cup her hands, calling your name to Mt Hood, a mountaineering tradition...in gratitude that you continue your life's journey.

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October 7, 2010

Once Again a Pilgrim

Yesterday after Bill drove me to the TGV I set off. The train was late arriving in Bayonne so three other pilgrims and I missed the little connecting train to Saint Jean Pied de Port. Luckily the Station Master was able to produce and pay for a taxi which took us on our way!

The other three passenger/pilgrims were an interesting mix of two Koreans from Seoul and a Los Angeles movie wardrobe coordinator. None spoke French nor had ever walked the Camino, so I was kept busy explaining logistics. In Saint Jean Pied de Port at the office of the Amies du Chemin they received their necessary Pilgrim Credencials and we all found bunks.

The newly renovated albergue looks great and is now VERY comfortable; it was completey full with thirty-two pilgrims. The wonderful Hospitalero, Mme Jeannine, is back once again; she remembered me from past visits which I found extraordinary since thousands of pilgrims have passed during this current Holy Year.

Before dawn this morning I wished Buen Camino to my new friends. They planned to follow the classic Route Napoleon directly up to Roncevalles monastery today while I have followed Charlemagne's path of retreat stopping today in Valcarlos and aiming for Roncevalles tomorrow.

......Later in Comments

..........Dorothy wrote...Hi Meredith, My friend, I admire your courage and energy as you begin the adventure of your sixth walk. I will ask the angels we know to watch over you. And, I will follow your progress. Take care of yourself.

..........Robert Simpson noted...Will follow you with great interest and admiration. Buen Camino from Colorado

..........Jan and Geoff said...Our very best wishes for your Camino!Take care of yourself and we look forward to seeing you in February 2011.

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October 8, 2010

Up to Roncevalles

Climbing up to Roncevalles monastery today was, as usual, exhausting! Following the road's many switchbacks took me 4 1/2 hours to attain the 1067 meter height; finally pooped but proud, I staggered in. What a great pleasure it was to remove my pack and only sit! (If you have never hiked wearing a pack just imagine carrying 15 pounds of potatoes continually for half a day.)

By evening there were many pilgrims; some even arrived by bus! In the albergue last night there were 84 others besides me. Two reasons may account for this surge. October 12 is the Spanish National holiday. Many will walk only this weekend and next Monday before the holiday. Others are starting a mad dash to arrive at Santiago for the Pope's scheduled visit next November 6.

We all attended the traditional evening pilgrim Benediction and Blessing in the monastery church. More than 25 countries were represented! May we all find our way in peace.

......Later in Comments

..........Bill said...Amazing what you achieved already, and with so little prep for the ascent, not to mention being 71! Take it easy for a day.

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October 10, 2010

Down to Zubiri

Saturday night it poured rain. However much of Sunday was simply moist as I hiked 20km, half up/half down to Zubiri where I stayed in a new private albergue, El Palo de Avellano, next to the church. Several small traditional stone structures have been nicely converted into the multilevel space.

Rain teemed just before arrival and never ceased. Hiking in a downpour is NOT fun; since I wear glasses there is an equally unsatisfactory choice between not seeing through wet lens or not seeing because I removed the glasses. Decisions, decisions!

The albergue is packed with four-day pilgrims or those who will stop on the holiday. Easy to spot they all have small packs, often carry umbrellas and are hyper clean! To each his own.

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October 12, 2010

From my House to your Casa

Up early this morning to do about 15km crossing Pamplona to Cizor Menor where I am staying, as usual, at the private Roncal albergue. Construction is continuous here so the place is always quasi-chaotic but pleasant.

En route I drank my first glass (first for this camino) of freshly squeezed zumo naranja or orange juice. No champagne has ever tasted better!

Also en route I took the attached photo of a poster in a realtor's office. I wonder if Hugh Laurie's character House is called Casa in Spain?

......Later in Comments

...........Lorraine Royall wrote...Hi Meredith,I am so happy to see you on this Special journey and I am so uplifted and encouraged by you. Thank you for sharing this beautiful experience and I look forward to keeping up with you through this wonderful medium.I have an American friend here in St. Lucia who also enjoys hiking and exploring. I have shared your blog address with her. I know she will enjoy it also. Take care and May God Speed.

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October 13, 2010

Cresting Alto del Perdon

Today beneath clear windy skies I crossed the Alto del Perdon. This stage on the Camino truly shakes out the hardy. Climbing up is no worse than the Ibaneta into Roncevalles, but descending is pure hell across scree for a couple of unforgiving km!

Gone are all the holiday walkers; the rest are out for the long slog west. Tonight I am in a pleasant private albergue in Ulterga. My dorm-mate is a Quebecoise who has been walking since mid August. Eight weeks ago she started from Puy in France and will stop tomorrow but plans to continue again next year. Thus we who love the Camino forever dream of another stage.

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October 14, 2010

Return to Paradise

Earlier this year on January 16 I staggered into Eunate. Unable to walk further without assistance, I canceled my winter camino vowing to return. Today walking easily yet weeping with joy I came back to this beloved place. From the depth of my heart I offer sincerest thanks for such a possibility.

As an architectural historian it has been my professional privilege and personal pleasure to visit some incredible structures, but Eunate is beyond them all. Here set within a natural bowl unknown craftsmen using ocher sandstone have crafted a small circular church surrounded by an octagonal cloister.

Here pilgrims have worshiped for one thousand years. For me, as for those multitudes, Eunate is close to paradise on earth. May peace in this timeless place always continue.

......Later in Comments

...........Bill noted...Nice photo of Eunate framed by the trees.

.

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October 16, 2010

Passing by Puenta La Reina

Yesterday I passed through Puente La Reina walking west to the hilltop town of Cirauqui where the private albergue was very pleasant and hyper clean. The efficient Hospitalero is excited to begin her Camino in two weeks when her season ends. Other pilgrims were generally middle aged Germans and French plus a Swiss couple who began walking eight weeks ago in Geneva.

However the only pilgrim in my dorm, a Swede, became a problem in the night drinking far too much "under the covers". Hard liquor is a no-no in albergues, but he was oblivious to any rule. In nervous desperation at midnight I moved into a "dry" dorm of middle aged snorers. What a relief!

Today after climbing an ancient Roman bridge and following antique cart routes I am just east of Estella in Villatuerta. This new private albergue is in a three hundred year old house! The on-going adaptation is charming. Family furniture, bits and pieces, plus Ikea basics are well mixed together. One unique feature is a shady loggia strung with colorful hammocks for siestas out of the summer sun! Such a simple practical idea.

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October 18, 2010

Albergue Breakfast 7am

Sunday after walking through Estella I stopped at the recently restored Irache monastery. The white interior is now splendidly pristine. Then through vineyards planted in red earth under cold autumn sunshine I trudged up to Villamajor de Monjardin.

Stayed at the parish albergue; small and cosy it is in an old storefront. We were six pilgrims; two Germans, one French, one English, and one other woman, also American. Over welcome cups of hot tea all shared multilingual travel tips as well as many philosophical musings. Up for breakfast at 7am we all set out as dawn broke.

Today it was cold, but beautiful walking through more vineyards and almond trees to Los Arcos.
Here I am staying in a new private albergue. Imagine my surprise when into the dorm walked a Quebeçoise pilgrim who I had met on my first Camino in 2004! Then she worked with the Inuit; now she is off to work in a Borneo orphanage. What a small serendipitous world!

......Later in Comments

..........Anonymous said ...Amazing. Work out the odds of meeting like that 6 years later !!!

..........Gerry wrote...Delighted to see you well underway again Margaret. Buen Camino!

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October 20, 2010

Santiago Matamoros, Logrono

Walking to Viana yesterday was cold but beautiful across vineyards and almond groves. My woolly hat and gloves were truly needed. Nevertheless the American woman from Florida with whom I walked wore sandals! Br-r.

Last night the Viana albergue was booming. Bunks in tiers of 3 were all filled! The actual effect was similar to movie scenes of a tightly packed troop ship! Slept soundly, however; nothing like exhaustion to induce solid sleep.

Now I am in Logrono which is a bustling hub for Rioja wine similar to Epernay for Champagne. This municipal albergue used to sport handsome contemporary art with a Camino theme as well as cosy dark blue polar blankets on each bunk. All are gone now;it is clean but anonymous. How sad it is when what once provided a specific identity disappears.

One identity which still is very visible within the city is the distinctive sculpture of Santiago Matamoros above the main door of the majestic church dedicated to Saint James. Here he is depicted victorious in battle riding a great steed with heads of slain Moors beneath. In today's world such a symbolic sculpture is of course politically loaded.

......Later in Comments

..........Evelyn noted...Godspeed, Meredith! Have finally caught up with your blogs. Glad to know the camino is going well! Sending warm wishes -- will keep following your progress. Evelyn (a B&B guest in Sept)

..........buckarooskidoo said...Hear you about the incendiary sculpture!

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October 22, 2010

Towards Najera

Early Thursday morning in gentle lemon yellow sunshine I crossed Logrono using the magnificent city park/promenade protected path system ending on the west in a large bird sanctuary. Many urban walkers were about as well as a few pilgrims. Eventually a young Scot from Glasgow walked with me into Navarette. Most of the other pilgrims in that municipal albergue were Korean. One girl had very bad bed bug bites from Estella;the very idea of the little critters made us all nervous and itchy.

Today was tiring walking 17km out of the vineyards towards the magnificent red cliffs here at Najera. On the way nestled in the woods was a strange cluster of stones purposely grouped and resembling surreal gourds.

First to arrive at the municipal hostel I quickly took a hot shower and now anticipate a very long siesta, perhaps until tomorrow morning, while I ponder those stones.

......Later in Comments

..........Amanda said ...Pleased to see you are making good progress. Wishing you continuing good health and energy. Love Amanda & Terry (the bikers

..........buckarooskidoo wrote...Bedbugs on the camino?! is NOTHING sacred?!

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October 23, 2010

Najera to Ciruenla

Climbing out of Najera through the red cliffs as dawn broke this morning was both beautiful and tiring; a full moon was setting in the west as the sun rose at 8am. It was cold; a hat and gloves were a must. Dashing for an open air loo was most invigorating. I met a few curious goats en route!

By noon, however, it was very hot climbing up the pass to Ciruenla where I stopped for the night in an ad hoc albergue. A basic room with a PRIVATE BATH cost only 15 euros. To celebrate such luxury I washed both technical T shirts which are pivotal pieces in my skeletal wardrobe. After more than two weeks in crowded dorms the single room seemed very spacious but a bit lonely.

......Later in Comments

..........Bill wrote ...That is a beautiful image!

..........buckarooskidoo added...I'm not even a skilled photographer but I echo Bill's sentiments l00%!

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October 24, 2010

Granon Albergue

For the past days Camino circumstances have been quickly changing, almost moment by moment brilliant sunshine, pouring rain, singular solitude, and bounding mobs have passed. Today I quickly moved through Santo Domingo de la Calzata en route to Granon. The fierce west wind made the going tough.

Alone for the first few hours in the Granon municipal albergue which is always open and located within a church tower, neither any hospitalero nor other pilgrim was about. By late afternoon, however, all was bouncing. Twenty-five pilgrims shared chatter, music, and dinner. Some had traveled a very long way including one couple from Poland and two young men from Israel who were remarkable musicians.

After dinner a short prayer service was held in the adjacent church; the magnificent baroque retable or altar screen was lit; all was golden. Now after such a glorious vision we pilgrims all have gone to bed or more accurately to floor mat and the cosmopolitan snoring has just begun!!

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October 25, 2010

Acacio & Orietta

At Viloria de Rioja east of Belorado Acacio and Orietta have a wonderful refuge for pilgrims. On my 2009 Camino I stopped for a hot tea en route for Belorado. They were so gracious that I vowed to return and spent the night; Monday I did.

They have created a comfortable oasis from abandoned animal sheds; there are 10 comfy bunks in a dorm heated by a wood burning stove and great showers that water you and not the ceiling, walls or your clothes. Wifi is available as is a multilingual library specializing in books by Paulo Coelho.

But best of all are the wonderful conversations with this Brazilian/Italian couple; I wish them every continued success and hope to return again next year!
.
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October 27, 2010

Tosantos Hermitage

Early Tuesday morning was COLD! Puddles were frozen and hoar frost covered the ground although it still is 'only' October. Everyone that passed, pilgrims and locals, remarked that it was "frio". I am so glad that I brought my standard winter kit! Nevertheless, the weather was and continues glorious with brilliant sun and clear azure sky.

After crossing the rather depressing town of Belorado which resembles a deserted village in an old western movie I stayed at the pleasant parish albergue in Tosantos. The young hospitaleros, a Spanish guy and Belgian girl, did their utmost to make pilgrims feel at home. Late in the afternoon we all climbed up to a nearby hillside hermitage built into limestone strata. In the evening a simple communal dinner was served; then all twelve pilgrims 'hit the mats' to sleep on the rather frigid floor.

Today I moved on to Villafranca Montes de Oca. Every Camino I have stayed at this pleasant municipal albergue in an old school. Here, too, the door is always open. Each visit I recall being snowbound here for three days during the now famous 2006 blizzard; then this truly was a most welcome shelter! For tonight I am glad that there are bunk BEDS on legs. Floor sleeping isn't easy, or more accurately getting off the floor in the dark of night isn't that easy.

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October 29, 2010

En Route to Burgos

Thursday I covered 15km in 5 hours to arrive at Ages after crossing an atmospheric Narnia-like wood but without any faun in sight. The weather continued glorious and the path was all mine. What a simple pleasure it is to walk on an empty path hearing only the distinctive crunch of your own boots. At such times the world is yours; perfection!

En route was the monastery of San Juan Ortega where I once stayed during my first Camino. Remembering how frigid it had been I opted to stay at the nearby Ages municipal albergue which happily was heated. Only three other pilgrims were there in a space for thirty-six, so we each had our own 'wing' of abundant space.

Today the weather changed to windy and cloudy; so did my luck. I got lost! Walking into Burgos has always been tedious since it entails paralleling highways . This time I chose the old N1 which mid-route suddenly became the brand new super highway A1 prohibiting pedestrians! In a frenzy I jumped a few barriers wildly crossing nearby pastures to continue west towards Burgos. When at last in the distance the windsock at the small airport could be seen I felt nearly 'home'. What a relief! Did more than twenty-five km and am truly pooped.

......Later in Comments

.......... buckarooskidoo asked ...How far are you on your journey now? How do you occupy your mind as you walk each day? I know I sing songs when I do my longer runs, but I bet you need more than songs for 8 plus hours a day!

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October 31, 2010

Heading for Hontonas

In an attempt to regain a bit of energy Saturday I walked only a third of what I did the day before. Simply went west from Burgos as dawn broke towards a new private albergue in Rabe de la Calzada. Unfortunately intense blasts of rain and wind did not aid progress.

Most of the other pilgrims in Rabe were young Koreans; in fact the guy from Seoul with whom I shared a taxi day one to Saint Jean Pied de Port was also there! To explain this Korean surge everyone assumes that a new Korean specific Camino book must have been published, but no one can identify it!

Hontanas tonight has a different mix since tomorrow, November 1, is a holiday, All Souls Day the Catholic day of Atonement when one remembers the dead. Thus tonight several male pilgrims are 'professional walkers'; these Spanish middle-aged men are usually in great shape, have very good hyper lightweight kits and often spend every holiday weekend covering great distances along the Camino. They also LOVE to recount their adventures loudly to each other as well as the rest of the dorm.

Earlier in 2004 I stayed in this attractive municipal albergue; within a small historic structure much has been built using basic plywood. Not an Ikea bed in sight! All is natural wood, terra cotta, or stone and very effective. Heated and with appropriately designed HOT showers it is a bargain at 5 euros. Now after walking 18km much of which was through VERY heavy mud, I am delighted to be so comfortable!

......Later in Comments

.......... Bonnie said ...Hi Meredith!I just checked on your adventure for the first time. Glad to see it is going well. I will look more often now that I have the link on my computer. All the best.

..........buckarooskidoo wrote...You are half pilgrim, half infantrywoman, soldering on through wind, rain, mud...very impressive!

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November 2, 2010

Emptiness, Via de Vida

Up early with the long distance 'boys' I arrived at my favorite bar, La Taberna, in Castrojeriz for a mid-morning breakfast. True hot chocolate so thick that the spoon could barely turn and thick slabs of buttered toast were delicious! The gracious owner/barman remembered my past visits and requested that I return again. Might it be so.

Well fortified I slowly climbed onto the high barren Mostelares plateau to continue alone along the Via de Vida or Way of Nothing for 10km or so. Apparently only the singular ribbon-like path of the Camino crosses this vast emptiness. For several kilometers neither no built thing nor no one else could be seen. During such moments one feels truly alone and minute, nothing more than another blade of grass.... Eventually I stopped at a private albergue in Itera de Vega.

Now I am in Fromista. Today the sun was brilliant, the sky cobalt and the terrain became flat. Much of the route followed the waterworks of the 18th century cut of the Canal de Castille. All was almost tidy and domestic in scale; what a change both in the physical world and hence one's mental state from yesterday! One can MAKE a difference and, thus, meaning. Two vastly different philosophic views within only a few hours or kilometers; much to ponder while walking.

......Later in Comments

..........Paula and Robin said ...Meredith, excited to read of your progress with each entry. We've followed since day one and have a map to chart your trek. Your descriptions and photos are lovely. Way to go pilgrim!

..........Joseph said...Remember me? I am from Hong Kong and we met near Viana. I was fortunate enough to have a taste of the thick choco at La Taberna in Castrojeriz as well!
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November 8, 2010

Progressing

Sunday I trekked 20km across the last flat plain from El Burgo Raneros to Mansilla de Las Mulas. Now the mountains were closer and a new cold wind was blowing sharply from the northwest. Upon arrival at the cozy municipal albergue the helpful hospitalero happily remembered me from past years. She always keeps the place immaculate yet homey which is no mean feat! I took my 'usual' bunk and the dorm quickly filled with shivering Korean and Spanish pilgrims.

Today walking the last 20km into Leon was COLD; the unceasing wind took one's breath away. Because of the wind I had much difficulty crossing two major bridges. At Puente Villarente the historic bridge is presently too narrow for two lanes of traffic plus pedestrians. After an oncoming truck ALMOST pushed me off I shook with fear for quite a while! Closer to Leon amidst industrial sprawl a new pedestrian bridge carries pilgrims high above the auto-route. When I got there the wind was so terrific that at first I could NOT MOVE! Seeking help but seeing no other pilgrim I backed down the ramp and calmly walked into a nearby BMW car showroom. After I explained that I needed assistance to cross and that we had a BMW in France the slightly astonished but very elegant manager put on his coat and took my arm. Eventually we both made it across, wind-blown and breathless! With a casual 'Adios' he further added that he had never walked the Camino and if it was all like this crossing he certainly never would!

......Later in Comments

..........Bill wrote...Incredible!

..........Paula said ...I second Bill's comment. Your request for BMW's legendary service was probably a first. We're taking cars in for winter service this week and I am tempted to recount your incredible experience. Bravo Meredith

..........Joseph noted...I had 2 trucks passing me at Puente Villarente! I hope that more could be done to ensure the safety of pilgrims and pedestrians alike in the future.

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November 9, 2010

Leaving Leon

Dawn broke as I left Leon; then the sky was clear and the wind only brisk. However, by day's end the wind was brutal and rain teemed. Thus, it was a long slog to the municipal albergue at Villadangos del Paramo.

Eventually four other pilgrims arrived to share the unheated space.One was a young Quebeçois man who had many foot problems. The others were a French couple traveling on bikes plus their two year old son who clad in a snowsuit rode in a enclosed little wagon pulled by his biking Daddy! Having been issued his own Credential, just like a grown-up, the little boy, too, was a bona fide pilgrim. His family had been traveling by bike throughout northern Europe including the wilds of Iceland for over one year and were vaguely headed towards north Africa after Santiago. It was fun to hear of their adventures and share their dreams.

Nevertheless we all went to our bunks quite early in order to get warm or at least warmer! Luckily there were plenty of blankets available. By folding one in half and inserting my sleeping bag between the halves all was quite toasty. Wearing my 'evening dress' of socks, fleece pants, technical undershirt, and long-sleeved winter undershirt plus my woolly hat I was snug enough. However, I did dream enviously about that little boy's cozy snowsuit!

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November 12, 2010

Towards the Mountains
Friday, November 12, 2010

After the rain Wednesday dawned clear, but cold. Late en route I met again a Mexican mother and daughter who now live in Paris and have been walking since Le Puy in France. We three had a welcome hot coffee in Hospital de Orbigo where I planned to stay.

Newly redone the parish albergue is very pleasant and the priest always most pleased to greet pilgrims. One other pilgrim was an Australian woman who had also walked from Le Puy to Roncevalles and due to time constraints taken the bus to Leon where she continued trekking. On the Camino everyone moves as he wishes; only the last 100km MUST be walked in order to receive the treasured Compostela or pilgrim certificate in Santiago.

Yesterday's path gradually started to climb crossing the red earth towards the mountains on the western horizon. Snow covered and beautiful to see from afar I wonder how difficult they will be to cross THIS time. During my 5th Camino a few pilgrims and I were snowed-in at Foncebadon for 2 memorable days of pure white-out when the drifts reached over a meter! Last night about 30 pilgrims were in the well renovated albergue run by the Amigos on the eastern side of Astorga. As we were leaving the city at dawn this morning a glorious golden light lit the majestic cathedral.

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November 13, 2010

En route to Rabanal

Friday I quickly visited a nationally protected village a few kms off the Camino, Castrillo de los Polivares. Unfortunately these small rural sandstone buildings roofed in tile ALL now have the same green painted trim ! The effect resembled a stage set; No evolving village EVER looked like that. Much of my professional life I worked for building preservation; both in Canada and NYC we opted to leave buildings 'in their own juice' and not gussy them up.

Back on the Camino I stopped at the authentic mountain village Santa Catalina de Somoza where a small private albergue is over a bar. The barman/owner gave me a big hug of recognition when I entered. Four men were my dorm mates; one monolingual Spanish, two multilingual Germans, and one French working in Dubai as a lighting specialist for the Cirque de Soleil. We all shared tips but had to walk this morning without any breakfast since no bar was open for 11kms! Eventually I ate some of my emergency rations, processed cheese and chocolate cookies. With a cold water chaser it wasn't cordon bleu but it sure was welcome considering the lack of any options!

Now I am in Rabanal del Camino. Got another big hug of welcome from the owner of this crowded private albergue. Since it is Saturday there are many weekend walkers as well as lots of Koreans. We all hope for good weather tomorrow crossing Monte Irago the highest point on the Camino.

......Later in Comments

..........buckarooskidoo said......You are the Camino equivalent of an infantry soldier, always prepared and ready to walk an infinite distance at any time.

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November 15, 2010

Up and Down the Mountains

Heavy rain in the night resulted in a very sloppy path for leaving Rabanal at dawn Sunday; more rain while walking so I was soaked upon arrival at Foncebadon. Drank several hot teas at the same albergue, Monte Irago, where I sheltered 2 days from heavy snow during Camino 5. The hospitalero remembered me and that storm. Met a few young Spanish pilgrims who had begun walking at Astorga and were suffering from trying to walk too far too fast.

We all continued to the famous Cruz de Ferro or Iron Cross where as have pilgrims throughout time I threw my stone carried from home onto the mound and gave my thanks for getting so far. Near-by we crossed the highest spot on the Camino, 1439 meters.

Later I was snugly installed in a small private albergue over a bar in the mountain town of El Acebo after savoring a fresh trout stuffed with air-cured ham in butter sauce. Delicious! Other pilgrims included 3 Koreans, 1 Brazilian, 1 sick Australian, and a Polish photo-journalist with bad knees.

One basic problem is that most guidebooks divide the Camino into set stages which most novice pilgrims consider 'sacred'. As long as accommodation is available everyone should walk the distance that feels most comfortable. For me now that distance is roughly 20/22 kms per day.

This morning we seven walked down the mountains to the Ponferrada albergue through light snow, rain, fog and a bit of sun. Tomorrow we will go up again, but further west towards the last mountains.

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November 17, 2010

Back into the Mountains

Life in the Ponferrada albergue was not the greatest. Thirty pilgrims crammed into seven small, hot dorms with only two working toilets! Chaos! It made the corner bar's facility, in marble no less,seem like five star luxury.

The path out of Ponferrada after crossing many industrial zones eventually reached the rolling countryside densely planted with Bierzo grapes; hillsides in late autumnal tones of russet and gold stretched to the western horizon.

Spent the rainy, cold night in Ave Fenix albergue in Villafranca del Bierzo. Neither heat nor hot water, but plenty of atmosphere!

Today the path followed the white water of the Valcarce River deeper and deeper into the mountains. At Ruitelan I am staying at the Buddhist Pequento Portala albergue, one of my favorite Camino spots. Small, soothing and simple it is a very special place. Their dinners are always copious and delicious and served with true caritas.

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November 19, 2010

Mists of Time

Leaving the peace of Ruitelan I walked alone through timeless mists to O Cebreiro. Slowly following the old NVI route and not the actual Camino mountain path, after climbing 4 1/2 hours there at last was the tiny stone chapel and the little hamlet almost hidden in the dense fog mixed with sleet; one could easily imagine all the phantoms from the past close-by.

After paying my respects at the tomb of Elias Valinas, the local priest who mid twentieth century renovated the idea of the Camino and painted the first yellow arrows, I offered my thanks for coming so far inside the church. It is always kept spotless by his relatives who live near-by.

Then I took the first bunk at the albergue; by night the dorm was crowded with fifty pilgrims and NOT very comfortable due to the mob. Since this is a famous spot and the frontier of Galicia many pilgrims with limited time choose to begin here.

Today through unending rain, sleet and fog a small group of us climbed up the last steep mountain pass and then descended 20kms to Triacastela. Now in a private albergue I have a small room to myself; what luxury! Outside, however, it is now sleeting so tomorrow's plans are uncertain.

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November 21, 2010

Further West

Saturday I left Triacastela quite late after wondering if more rest was needed; I felt exhausted at 9am! The morning was cloudy and damp, but much less cold. The Camino now crossed wooded hills and dales which in turn were crossed by low stone walls, ivy, green fields and many types of fern, reappeared. At times walking down rocky spots covered with wet leaves was extremely slippery, but I did 19 km to Sarria.

At the very comfortable private albergue, Durminento, as I opened the door the hospitalero/owner happily remembered me and quickly prepared a welcome hot lunch. I was alone in one of many small dorms. Each bunk had a clean, crisp duvet; my siesta lasted until dawn!

Next the Camino continued across gentle farm land. Today under gray clouds, a bit of rain and often along a flooded path eventually I stopped at the small municipal albergue in Ferreios. After a wonderful Sunday lunch at the good restaurant Millaros, down the hill and by the cemetery, I am cozy in my sleeping bag happily writing while outside it is pouring rain. How wonderful to be dry indoors!

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November 23, 2010

Nearing the End

Monday walking in the early morning chill and fog I had my first battle on this Camino with diarrhea. Yikes! This can be particularly unnerving when crossing open country without any visible shelter. In desperation a large log served as an temporary screen. At such times it important to remember that sooner or later everybody has this problem!

Trudging on I decided to stop at the attractive private albergue in Gonzar where I stayed last year. This is a successful re-use of old farm buildings; natural wood, slate and field-stone have been handsomely blended. Little has been left to chance except the heat; there was none and all was FRIGID. Of course I wore my woolly hat to sleep. Since I was the only pilgrim there were plenty of blankets for tucking below and above my sleeping bag.

Going to Palas de Rei today was happier since the sun finally shone again. More little lanes, many puddles, much mud, and several new "pilgrims" who while only walking the final 100km, send their packs by taxi and, hence, bounce quickly past the rest of us trudging along.

My fellow long haulers are now collectively rather shabby. We all need haircuts, the guys need to shave and everyone's clothes need to be boiled clean! Several are nervous about reaching Santiago within the next few days and wonder how will it be to be off the Camino and back in ordinary life. Personally I always have found re-entry difficult; it is depressing to stop following the yellow arrows.

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November 25, 2010

To Melide and Arzua

In milky sunshine beneath the first eucalyptus trees Wednesday I walked alone to Melide. Mid route met a nice Quebeçois retired couple who had been walking since September when they started from Le Puy in France. Weary, as we all are, they were determined to reach Santiago within the next two days. I will take a bit longer and hope to arrive by mid-day Saturday.

The Melide albergue has been completely redesigned and refurbished. However, the work is not yet quite finished. We pilgrims that were there slept amidst fresh paint and plaster dust, LOTS of plaster dust.

Today a guy from Seville, one of "my" group of long haul pilgrims, and I walked through forest to Arzua. This handsome albergue with great showers has always been a comfortable favorite. What a surprise to have it quickly fill with a Spanish Marine brigade walking the final 100kms as a training exercise! Forty good looking guys, but with many blisters and lots of camouflage, are about the place; it should be a vibrant night!

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November 28, 2010

Santiago de Compostela !

Yesterday, Saturday, I walked into Santiago de Compostela finishing my 6th Camino! As always it was a day of mixed emotions, of euphoria and exhaustion. Finally arriving at the northeast corner of the great cathedral I paused weeping, placed one hand on the ancient stones and silently offered my heartfelt thanks. All was good....

All was also crowded! Down in the Praza de la Quintana crowds waited to enter the Puerta Santa, open only in Holy Years. Many, many people milled about. Surprisingly at the nearby Pilgrims' Office there was no line so the treasured Compostela or pilgrimage certificate was quickly issued. Almost staggering with fatigue I went to my favorite small hotel in the shadow of the cathedral on the Paza de Fonseca and fell asleep listening to the beloved bells.

After sleeping for over 12 hours within the delicious comfort of clean sheets, today I re-met 'old' Camino friends and we all attended the special mid-day Pilgrim Mass. It was packed so we stood shoulder to shoulder. In conclusion the great botafumero or giant censer was lit, impressively lifted and spun high above the congregation producing whirls of incense! ...Thus,today's pageantry has already become a timeless memory.

......Later in Comments

..........Bill said...My immense admiration for accomplishing this 6th periple, an amazing feat, once again! Two months walking is a long time. It will be SO good to have you back.

..........Joan wrote...Congratulations Margaret,I am so happy that you were able to do your 2010 Camino.You are my role model for my second Camino sometime soon. We met this spring at your B&B; perhaps we will meet again on the Camino.

..........Adelardo noted...Hello Margaret! Thanks again for your company and for teaching me so many things!

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December 5, 2010

To Land's End

The last five days have been spent walking in winter conditions further across Galicia towards the sea at Finisterra. On Tuesday after a quick final breakfast with Adelardo I slowly made my way out of Santiago in steady rain to Negeira. It was a long, sloppy slog of 22km across many hills through eucalyptus forests and much mud. Walked on and off with Anita, a young Korean girl with very sore feet. We two plus a Quebeçoise and an Australian girl were the only pilgrims at the municipal albergue. Luckily it was well heated and there were many blankets since outside it was getting very cold.

On Wednesday Anita and I continued crossing the cold, bleak forest landscape to Vilaserio where we stayed in an old school which is now a minimal albergue. (The only alternative was to walk 20km further to the next accommodation.) The school had a toilet, shower, floor mattresses and NO heat! Outside it was sleeting; inside on tile floors the constant cold was hardly bearable! Of course I wore my woolly hat plus gloves to try to sleep, but there was no relief. Frankly I am surprised that we even made it through the night! By dawn a thin layer of treacherous ice stretched to the horizon outside.

Thus Thursday walking carefully through sleet, snow and rain Anita and I followed many wet, narrow lanes crossing 23kms of higher and higher hills to eventually arrive exhausted at the wonderful albergue complex at Oliveroa. Here were cozy blankets, working radiators, and hot water, plus the kind hospitalero who remembered me from past years. What welcome comfort in contrast to the previous frigid night ! Many other pilgrims were fully exhausted since they had done the total 33kms under severe conditions.

Conditions were to get worse, however. Next day, Friday, all awoke to a thin layer of brittle ice covering most surfaces; this was especially slick on rock and stone and the Camino would now climb up over stone for several kilometers. What to do? Luckily an Australian pilgrim, Liz, a trained trail guide came along and calmly walked and talked me up the icy trail!

After climbing an hour or so our path, now descending, became unfrozen mud. I never really appreciated walking on mud until AFTER trying to walk on ice! What a relief! At last it was easy to hike down through pine and eucalyptus forests towards the now visible sea and land's end at Finisterra.

Liz and I plus a French guy spent the night at the welcoming albergue at San Roque above Corcubion. In the dark from the dorm window we could see the last lighthouse beacon shining out to sea.

Yesterday, Saturday, I walked alone the last kilometers down into Finisterra and out to the lighthouse. The rain was cold, the wind was brutal and the surf rough, but it was wonderful to feel alive! Here the land's end was my journey's end.

By the old stone cross near the marker for kilometer 0 while looking out to sea, I offered heartfelt thanks for life, for strength, and for determination to have successfully walked all these thousand kilometers. ...Weeping I wondered about the journeys yet to be. ULTREIA!

......Later in Comments

..........Bill wrote...Wow! What a journey! Felicitations!

..........Jan and Geoff said...Warmest Congratulations on completing your 6th Camino and then taking the journey to to Land's End! Reading your blog makes us feel like complete lounge lizards. Your daily notes are certainly very evocative- we could feel the cold and the wet, but also the inspiration to keep going. There's certainly no stopping you as we got the impression that this Camino was particularly fulfilling!.

..........Rebecca noted...Margaret, much congratulations for your completion of your walk. I had come across the website to your B&B when I was researching France, routes, and places to stay. I chance upon your blog a couple of hours ago and had spent the time since, avidly reading and following your walk, from when you started in Oct. Brought back so much memories for me, it had me in tears!I walked Camino Ingles from December 7 to 12 and seemed blessedly to have missed the cold. Once again, congratulations, and thank you for sharing your journey!

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next chapter Camino 7 - 2011

map MSCAMINO/all years

or return to contents page
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clean

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CLEAN

February 5, 2007

St Jean Pied de Port

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2009-09-19T12:03:00.000-07:00

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2009-09-18T01:01:00.000-07:00

CONTENTS

(please read this first)

Camino 1 - 2004

Camino 2 - 2005/2006

Camino 3 - 2007

Camino 4 - 2008

Attempt.. - 2008

Camino 5 - 2009

Camino 6 - 2010

Camino 7 - 2011

Map MSCAMINO/all years

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2009-09-17T23:56:00.000-07:00

INTRODUCTION

All information from mscamino.blogspot.com is now here in a book format!

Chronologically from 2004 through 2011 this describes my seven Caminos to Santiago de Compostela in Spain walking on the Camino Frances from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Cabo Fisterra. As well my attempt to walk across France is also included.

An interactive map loads in a separate window.
MSCAMINO/all years marks when I was where on the Camino.

Each chapter describes one walk from 2004 through 2011 and ends with links to the next walk, the map or the contents page. Comments from past readers are quoted.

My photographs illustrate each chapter.

These adventures total more than 7000 kilometers walked
during more than 400 days of effort.

I hope that you enjoy my journeys!

Ultreia!

Margaret Meredith Sykes

To begin return to contents page and choose!

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2009-09-16T01:14:00.000-07:00

Camino 1 - 2004

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Mer’s Camino or 800 k with a stuffed moose

September 27, 2004

Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port

Today I began my Camino, a hike alone across northern Spain from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port in the French Pyrenees to Santiago de Compostela. Fulfilling a dream held since university days, now at 65 I was setting out alone. This pilgrimage route to the catholic cathedral and burial place of St James, Christ’s Apostle, has been in existence for over 1000 years. Over the centuries multitudes of pilgrims had followed the trail known in Spanish as the Camino or path. I, too, wanted to experience what so many had done across time and to see what had been built along the way.

Bill, my husband, was off to the US for a month so we closed our French Bed & Breakfast to follow our separate journeys. Good-byes were said in the Gare Montparnasse as I awaited the TGV train going southwest to Bayonne. Sad at our parting, yet so excited to be going at long last I boarded the train. Packed, my knapsack weighed about 10 kilos or 22 pounds. In it were a sleeping bag, poncho, thin waterproof jacket and pants, muffler, woolly hat, gloves, and lightweight polar jacket. A walking stick, change of hiking clothes, underwear, basic toiletries, towel, notes, diary, tiny flashlight, camera, food bag, water bottle, utensils and cup made up the rest, plus Mo. (Mo is a toy stuffed moose, which I long ago gave to my father for his 90th birthday. After my father’s death Mo came back to me. Now he was traveling in his own blue sack within the knapsack disguised as my ‘pillow’, but in truth my silent confidante.)

Travel time on the TGV passed quickly. At Bayonne I changed to a slower local train going east to the Basque town of Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, named such because it is the foot of a pass crossing the Pyrenees. It is also one of the two main entrance points on the French border to the Camino; the other is further east at Somport.

At Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port I hoisted the pack, walked uphill and through the old fortress walls to the office of the welcoming Amis du Chemin de St Jacques to apply for my pilgrim pass and find a bunk for the night.

During the Middle Ages the Camino had been the third most important pilgrimage route in Christendom after Jerusalem and Rome. Thus throughout the centuries lodgings were built to house the hoards of pilgrims. Some were in monasteries, others in hospitals. The tradition still continues. Today towns along the route provide simple shelters for pilgrims. These Albergues de Peregrinos are generally priced at 6 or 7 euros a night for a bunk bed in a mixed dorm. In order to use them you need a pilgrim pass or Credencial del Peregrino. Stamped each night it provides proof of your trip when you arrive at Santiago. More than 70,000 Credencials were issued during 2003! To obtain the pass you must state your intention as either a religious pilgrimage or a spiritual journey and not just tourism. Since the hagiography of St James recounts that his dead body miraculously washed ashore in Spain, scallop shells from the sea are his symbol. Hence, from time immemorial pilgrims have worn scallop shells (in French, coquille St Jacques). Along with the necessary Credencial I obtained my shell.

Nearby a restaurant served the basic menu de peregrino, a simple three course set meal for pilgrims for about 7 euros including wine. Most restaurants along the route would provide such meals. My bunk was in the refuge run by the Amis. Sleeping in one of eight beds in a mixed dorm, I spent my first night with 7 men. Six had hiked down for two weeks from Puy in central France and would continue their pilgrimages in future years; the other from Holland had just arrived on the train. He and I nervously discussed potential stamina for the route that lay ahead. All would snore loudly during the night. After rolling out my sleeping bag and patting my ‘pillow’ I fell asleep wondering about the route and days to come.

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September 28, 2004

Valcarlos

Pilgrims must vacate each albergue by 8 am! Nearly everyone wakes around 6:30. After waiting in a few cold lines to use the toilet facilities I quickly learned to rise by 6:15 and beat the rush! The Amis provided a simple free breakfast of bread, butter, jam and tea or coffee, plus welcome conversation; all these volunteers had walked the Camino. Although they welcome so many thousands of pilgrims every year the Amis were attentive, caring hosts who took a personal interest in each guest. They asked and remembered names and offered a multitude of tips. Standing at the exit door they shook each hand and wished “Bon Camino” as we pilgrims left.

The Camino is well marked with yellow arrows and stylized shells. Spotting the first shell marker my excitement was intense as I began to walk westward into the woods towards Valcarlos, Spain, through morning fog.

Several tiring hours, one false turn and 10 k later I arrived. The town’s name means Charles’ valley after Charlemagne. It is said to be the place where during the 8th century he and his army rested following their nearby defeat. Although the Amis had mentioned that Valcarlos had an albergue I saw no sign! I asked in French at the drugstore. The druggist took me to the mayor’s office where they handed me a key. Unmarked and between two public lavatories at the back of the municipal playground, the space was small and clean. Mo and I were alone. Next morning when I tried to pay the mayor’s secretary said it was a ‘donativo’; one donated what one wished. Many other places along the Camino would use the same system.

September 29, 2004

Roncevalles

Hiking 20 k up the 1060 meter Ibaneta pass to the monastery at Roncevalles was one of the most difficult days on the Camino and certainly the most physically exhausting day of my adult life to date. I was pooped! Although I had hiked throughout the summer in preparation for the trip, nothing had prepared me for such an effort. Beneath a deep blue sky and brilliant sun I gasped and ached while my pack weighed like bricks. After hiking about 5 hours I finally staggered over the pass into a picnic area filled with a munching mob; they had arrived by bus and cars! Never will I forget the look that one très correct French woman drinking champagne from a crystal flute, no plastic for her, gave me as I trudged past exhausted! ET would have been better received. A kindly couple from Scotland offered me the best ever cup of tea from their thermos. Refreshed I continued on to the monastery, happy that the path was now slightly downhill.

Roncevalles monastery is documented from 1127 as a pilgrims’ hospice; it still is in use as such. Earlier in time the picturesque site had been the battle scene for the defeat of Charlemagne’s army, immortalized in the medieval poem the Chanson de Roland. Today the many medieval structures are highly visited both by pilgrims and ordinary tourists. After attending evening mass and participating in the traditional pilgrims’ blessing I went to eat. Other diners at my table were 8 extremely well dressed and coiffed Italian men and one young fellow from Brazil. We shared the pilgrims’ menu and talked in French about our plans.

All of us stayed in the one room 80 bunk albergue. Recently installed in a buttressed Gothic barn without windows, it boasted a new ventilation system and superb tiled hot-water showers and toilets in the newly excavated basement – a great example of architectural adaptive reuse! To my surprise the Italians who were bedded near me all went to shower wearing thick terry robes. It was hard to imagine these carried in any knapsack since they would be bulky and heavy. Next morning all were awakened at 6:30 to pack in the flickering light of 80 flashlights. Outside I discovered the Italians’ secret. At a luggage van parked nearby they stowed their night packs and picked up others for the day! Although I never again saw these Italians, as time went on I learned that “real” pilgrims always carry their own packs and feel mighty superior to those who don’t.

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September 30, 2004

Zubiri

Descending from Roncevalles into the Spanish region of Navarre beneath a black sky lit by morning stars was beautiful. As day broke the rolling landscape was covered in fog. Since the monastery had not offered an early breakfast, it was with great pleasure that after hiking an hour or so I arrived at Buegete which has an open café. It was filled with other hungry pilgrims.

The rest of the day was 20 k of relatively easy walking across farmland and several medieval stone bridges, but my legs and back ached from the day before. In one woods I met a German fellow who was truly thrilled to be doing the Camino. He had been a political prisoner in the old East Germany and this was his first ‘voyage out’. Night was spent in a tiny, very crowded private albergue in Zubiri. The town name is Basque for village of the bridge. After a picnic supper I talked with an older French pilgrim from Pau who was afraid that he was getting tendonitis. It sounded painful. Little did I suspect….

October 1, 2004

Trinidad de Arre

It was a hot day, but walking was easier. Crisscrossing the river Arga on medieval bridges it was surprising to see Coke machines often installed by the bridges to service contemporary pilgrims! After 13 k came Arre and the small monastery La Trinidad. Scenically located on riverbank, it also had been an important pilgrim refuge throughout the ages. Accommodations were in a refitted barn within a tiny simple monastery garden. Sitting outside writing my diary all seemed timeless. Happily, I was starting to feel at ease and at one with the trail. Fellow pilgrims included a group of very athletic Spanish men; suffering from huge blisters on their feet, they were in agony. For dinner nearby I joined two Frenchmen taking time out to walk.

October 2, 2004

Cizur Menor

Next morning after entering its fortifications via the Portal de Francia I walked through the city of Pamplona. Like most cities and towns along the trail its urban development is closely associated with the history of the Camino. During the Middle Ages ‘burgos de francos’ or independent neighborhoods had been settled by former pilgrims. The cathedral interior and Gothic cloister are magnificent. Here, as in most major religious buildings in Spain filled with priceless treasures, one pays an entrance fee. Pilgrims showing their Credencial pay less.

The weather turned hot and humid so I stopped at a well-known private refuge owned by the Roncal family in Cizur Menor, a western suburb. At their doorway from a chain hung a welcoming scallop shell.

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October 3, 2004

Puente la Reina

This day almost did me in. It was a hard steep 20 k to Puente la Reina, crossing the Sierra del Perdon. However those hills pardon no one. The landscape was beige beneath gray clouds; the air turned chilly. Near the top of the pass my knees throbbed dreadfully and my nose bled. Using lots of tissues I rested on the side of the trail with my eyes closed. Perhaps I fell asleep. Suddenly I felt a tap on my shoulder; “Are you all right?” asked a very British voice. I opened my eyes and saw a young man with long hair, wearing a gray kimono, black obi sash and wooden clogs leaning over me! Was this a vision? Was I hallucinating? I answered that I was ok. He went on and soon I did also.

At the top were many giant windmills whirling to produce electricity. Nearby was a huge, handsome contemporary sculpture in rusted steel silhouetting the cut out shapes of pilgrims and their packs. Unfortunately I was too exhausted to appreciate the view. Going down was pure hell across steep slopes of tiny stones.

Close to town I met an extremely energetic American woman out for Sunday walk, but by the time I hobbled into Puente la Reina I could barely move.

At the entrance to the town is a life size statue of a pilgrim with wide hat, cape, staff and shell. He marks the junction of the Somport and St Jean Pied de Port routes. From hereon west there is only one Camino. I stopped for the night at the refuge of the Padres Reparadores. Here I met again and queried the kimono-clad hiker. He wears it because he “likes it” and walks the trail continually because he “can’t go home”. To each his own.

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October 4, 2004

Puente la Reina

During the night my knees ached so much that I decided to spend an extra day in Puente la Reina. Since pilgrims can only spend one night at each albergue, come morning I dragged myself across the famous Romanesque bridge after which the town is named, checked into a new private refuge and was back asleep by 9 am! Bliss. In the afternoon I laughed reading actress Shirley MacClaine’s account of her trek found in the common room and practiced walking while leaning heavily on my stick. Unwilling to be grounded at the end of only the first week and unable to imagine mounting up into a train to return to Paris, I gritted my teeth determined to persevere.

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October 5, 2004

Villatuerta

Unfortunately the next day was mostly 17 k of ups and downs through the mud and dirt of road improvements to Villatuerta. Part, however, was lovely following antique Roman paving and across a Roman bridge. Using my stick for balance was vital. This private albergue has only two other pilgrims. Both are middle-aged men; one Spanish, one German. Our common language is pantomime. The paunchy German is on a special diet of milk, protein powder and one daily fruit! Silently I wonder whether he will make it to Santiago. When buying picnic dinner supplies the kindly lady shopkeeper pressed into my hand a present of small candies “for strength on the Camino”.

October 6, 2004

Estella

Early the next day I walked to nearby Estella, a beautiful sandstone town dating from the Middle Ages. Its many churches and small conical hills along the river Ega were reminiscent of Italy. Located on the Camino, which runs straight through the town, the city hall is a rare example of Romanesque civil architecture. Today it houses varied services including tourism.

Since my knees still hurt and it was too early to check into the municipal albergue, I spent much time in the tourist bureau. The extremely helpful guy who staffed it spoke several languages. He, too, had lived in Manhattan for a while and we compared memories of favorite haunts. The nearby café he suggested for breakfast might have been in Soho! It was so pleasant that I returned for lunch in the patio with other pilgrims. In the afternoon I slowly sight saw while trying to ease my aching knees.

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October 7, 2004

Villamayor de Monjardin

This day would prove to be both aesthetically and socially perfect. 5 k west of Estella I watched as dawn lit the isolated monumental abbey of Irache. After circumscribing the exterior 12th century buildings I entered the Romanesque church. It was superb; Cistercian and unadorned, the stone walls and imposing pillars were illuminated by a few slender alabaster windows. Peace reigned. It was a privilege to experience such a special place.

Continuing on the next 7 k of route climbed through vineyards to Villamayor de Monjardin. Tired I stopped at a storefront shelter for a welcome drink. Upon discovering that this was an albergue run by the parish church I stayed. It was so tiny that the roadside was the dining ‘room’. The vivacious Spanish housefather hung his wash in the churchyard. As the afternoon passed other pilgrims staggered in. The housefather cooked a simple meal for all; we shared it outside sitting together in the dark. There were a few Spanish boys, a young couple from Venezuela, one Spanish woman and a Norwegian. This darling blond Norwegian woman turned out to be a Lutheran priest! Great human mix and vibes !

October 8, 2004

Los Arcos

Sad at moving on I slowly walked 12 k to Los Arcos across seemingly endless fields. The albergue, which was run by Belgians, seemed over crowded with noisy kids. However, it was nice to meet again the Venezuelans from the previous night. We three lamented the drastic change of mood. Surprisingly a masseuse was available so I had my legs rubbed and was told to drink more water and to relax.

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October 9, 2004

Torres del Rio

After 10 k through more vineyards, but beneath a deep blue sky, came Torres del Rio. Here is found a small octagonal Romanesque church, Santo Sepulcro. Some historians link it to the Knights Templar who protected the Holy Sepulcher in Jerusalem; others link it to the nearby monastery at Irache. Whatever, it is a small gem. Looking up into the ceiling of the central cupola crossed by ribbed vaults which form eight-sided stars was mesmerizing. I stayed in a pleasant private albergue built around an open patio. Using the sanitary facilities entailed going down two flights of stairs and crossing the patio; it was chilly and cumbersome in the night.

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October 10, 2004

Viana

Since the next section of Camino crossed a deep ravine described on maps as mataburros or the mule-killer and not wanting to add to my physical woes, I decided to follow the road and avoid the trail. One Frenchman who was doing the same described such a trail as only for “les tres sportifs”. I stopped at Viana, a small town of handsome mansions decorated with family crests. The municipal albergue was very crowded with bunks in triple tiers! Luckily I found one on the bottom level. Two nice retired French women from the Sologne and I decided to continue together for the next few days.

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October 11, 2004

Logrono

Now the Camino entered the region of Rioja, renown for wine. After 10 k came Logrono, a prosperous city on the river Ebro. The municipal albergue was well designed. It had a pleasant exterior patio for sitting or washing clothes. Contemporary sculpture decorated the airy public spaces. Its 80 bunks were grouped in small nooks with 2 double tiers in each. It felt comfortable and not claustrophobic. Near the albergue stands the church of Santiago. The Baroque doorway depicts St James in the two different guises associated with his legend. One is as a gentle pilgrim wearing a broad brimmed hat and cape, holding a staff and shell. In this image, which is the more common, he has become his own pilgrim. The other depiction is as Matamoros or Moor slayer. As a valiant warrior he rides a spirited white horse beneath which lie slain Moors. The Matamoros is associated with a nearby battle site at Clavijo. Here in the 9th century the Spanish king while fighting the Moors saw in the sky an apparition of St James on horseback. The Spanish were victorious and, thus, began their Reconquest of Spain. Of course, in today’s ecumenical and/or politically correct world this depiction is dynamite.

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October 12, 2004

Navarette

On Spanish National Day, a public holiday, I walked 12 k. The landscape was brown earth, some grapevines and ominous gray clouds; eventually it began to drizzle. Putting on a poncho and lowering it over the knapsack was an impossible feat alone. By the time I reached Navarette it was pouring and I was soaked. Quite miserable I stopped at the municipal albergue. The French women from the Sologne also were there. In the evening the houseparents, an Italian couple, hosted a common feast of pasta for all the pilgrims in celebration of the holiday. I’d now been hiking the Camino for two weeks; tired and sore but determined to cope I could not imagine deciding to quit. What an adventure it was! As long as my body endured I would continue. As the pilgrims said in the Middle Ages “Ultreia!” or Further!

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October 13, 2004

Najera

Just west of town stood the Romanesque doorway of the old pilgrims’ hostel, now the cemetery entrance. Nearby a plaque commemorates a Belgian pilgrim recently killed here en route to Santiago. The rain had stopped so the 16 k hike was pleasant, but muddy, crossing through vineyards beneath a deep blue sky. Najera had a remarkable site along the river Najerilla at the base of high red sandstone cliffs. The Arabic name means place between the rocks. The town’s major monument is the medieval monastery of Santa Maria where the French women and I had planned to meet and stay. Unfortunately it was closed for renovation.

While wondering where my friends might have gone a kind Spanish workman led me by the hand to the new municipal albergue a few blocks away. Made from prefabricated, one story units it held 98 pilgrims. Outside on a bench sat my friends. We celebrated our brief reunion with dinner; they would return to France the next day planning to continue at some future time.

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October 14, 2004

Santo Domingo de la Calzada

Since the Camino climbed over the imposing cliffs, I decided to follow the road. Walking on the verges of highway 120 was pure hell in the early morning light. Huge trucks roared past. I shook from their passage and my nerves. After 6 dangerous kilometers I went back to the safety of the trail. Not well signaled it meandered across farmland, new housing developments and a golf course. Finally after another 20 k appeared the town Santo Domingo de la Calzada. St Dominic had been a monk who devoted his life to pilgrims in the Middle Ages. He also laid and paved roads. Calzada means roadway. The town typifies the city-street plan in which the Camino serves as the central spine of the city; neighborhoods grew on either side of the trail.

At the Cistercian monastery when I asked for a lower bunk the guardian smiled and handed me a number. My ‘draw’ was a tiny nook opening off the crowded dorm. Furnished with a single bed and a pile of plastic chairs, it was practically private. What a treat! Mo loved it! The nearby cathedral where St Dominic is buried is also famous for a Gothic chicken coop! In this colorful cage within the sanctuary a live cock and hen are kept in memory of a local legend involving a pilgrim and an innkeeper’s daughter. The birds are changed periodically; hearing them crow is said to bring pilgrims good luck.

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October 15, 2004

Granon

Trudging across an ocher landscape of cut wheat beneath a heavy sky and against a biting wind I walked only 6 k to Granon. I’m so glad that I stopped! The municipal albergue, in the belfry of the church of San Juan Bautista, was special. Open all day its sign read “Welcome pilgrim make this your home”. The handsome common room had a fireplace and comfortable furnishing. Above on a continuous platform were mats for sleeping bags. Kitchen and toilets were new and well equipped. One could really relax. What a surprise to discover that the gracious houseparents were volunteers from California! In the early evening we all attended mass downstairs. The magnificent wall size 16th century retable behind the altar shone with gilt. Later the gregarious priest joined us pilgrims upstairs for dinner. Townspeople brought in extra food. Authenticity, honesty and true ‘caritas’ made Granon unique.

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October 16, 2004

Belorado

West of Granon the trail enters the region of Castille and Leon. Relentless wind and cold air necessitated gloves, muffler and a woolly cap to cover my ears. I stopped briefly at Redecilla to see the handsome Romanesque baptismal font and shelter from the wind. The font is carved in a circular pattern depicting towers and windows.

Walking seemed easier; my knees no longer hurt. One pilgrim passed wearing a shirt that read ‘slow, but dependable’; that could be my motto! Later while catching my breath two Spanish men wearing suits came over to chat. They were Jehovah’s Witnesses. The Camino seemed an odd place for them to proselytize. After 12 more k I stopped at the brand new municipal albergue in Belorado. It was spotless, but lacked atmosphere. What a difference from the night before! Unfortunately the spring hinges of the toilet doors had been installed backwards; all night long pilgrims bruised their fingers. I, too, acquired a souvenir black and blue fingernail.

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October 17, 2004

Villafranca Montes de Oca

The wind had ceased so the 12 k to Villafranca Montes de Oca across farm fields felt easier. The designation Villafranca refers to French pilgrims who settled here during the Middle Ages. As I was slowly plodding into town a mixed group of athletic, chic Spaniards without packs but prepared with umbrellas went dashing past. In comparison I felt and looked like an ancient relic.

Installed in an old school the municipal albergue was extremely basic, but crowded. At the local restaurant, a truck stop, the dining room was closed. Luckily the bar was open. After my pleas the bartender eventually produced fried eggs with mountain ham, bread and red wine. Delicious!

October 18, 2004

San Juan de Ortega

Next came the dense forest of Montes de Oca. During the medieval past this was infamous for bandits who robbed and murdered pilgrims. A more recent monument to ‘los Caidos’ commemorates those who were executed in this bleak place during the Spanish Civil War.

Nearby where a dirt road crossed the Camino a small white van was parked; a few folding chairs and a small table with wild flowers in a tiny vase placed outside. A tall, slim young bearded man wearing a blue track suit asked in English “would you like to rest and have a tea?” Slightly dubious, but glad to sit, I did. We introduced ourselves and talked about the weather, the Camino, and, more philosophically, purpose in life. His was helping pilgrims. “Are you and your tea always accepted?” “Generally”, he answered, “but the French rarely stop!” Right on cue a French couple came into our view. When he offered I commented “c’est très bon!” They stopped.

After a laugh and another cup of tea I continued to the monastery of San Juan de Ortega. Ortega refers to nettles. This St John was a helper of St Dominic and like him built hospices and roads for pilgrims. Within the handsome Romanesque church is his sumptuous freestanding Gothic mausoleum. The saint is depicted recumbent beneath an ornate baldachino or canopy. Evening mass was beautiful; large bunches of fresh greens and shells decorated the main altar and side aisles. At the close of service the elderly priest invited all into the adjacent refectory where cups of tasty garlic soup were served.

Pilgrim lodgings were in the monastery and austere. Very cold I skipped a shower and snuggled deep into the sleeping bag while recalling the day’s kindnesses.

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October 19, 2004

Cardenuela

In chill rain I slowly walked west out of the forest across the Sierra de Atapuerca. About ten years ago prehistoric human remains were found there; Atapuerca Man may be the oldest example of homo sapiens in Europe. Close to the excavation site I stopped at a surprisingly chic restaurant for a hearty breakfast.

Once back en route as far as the distant horizon the rolling greenery was broken only by the giant curve of the trail. It was a perfect image; not an imagined vision, but a memorable vista, ‘my’ Camino.

After passing a picturesque Roman spring eventually I arrived at Cardenuela. This hamlet boasted a warm, welcoming bar which served a delicious pilgrims’ menu. The barkeeper gave me the key to the new municipal albergue. Very clean, it had 10 bunks and hot water. Bliss! No one else arrived until late in the evening. It was the jubilant mayor who walked in, formally shook my hand, wished “Buen Camino!” and left. Mo and I were alone for the night. I had been walking for three weeks.

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October 20, 2004

Burgos

Early next morning I met a woman feeding her pigs. She smiled, motioned for me to wait and quickly reappeared with many chestnuts in her extended hand. “For strength” she said smiling. Later pouring rain and huge trucks roaring along the highway made the 11 k into Burgos exhausting. On arrival at the pilgrims’ information office I felt ready to collapse. Luckily a new private albergue was in the next block. Spotless, with 20 bunks, hot showers, free email plus soothing Celtic music, it was perfect!

After a welcome overhaul and siesta I set out to visit the magnificent Gothic cathedral. Although the rich interior decoration was superlative, I, alas, was almost too tired to absorb it. For courage I remembered one of the timeless adages associated with the Camino, if a pilgrim makes it to the city of Burgos, he can make it to Santiago. In my case it was so far so good. Ultreia!

Within the cathedral museum are famous representations of St James in the two different guises generally associated with his legend. One is small sculpture about 30 cm high, in gold. Here he is a gentle soul wearing a broad brimmed hat and cape, holding a staff and shell. In this depiction which is the more common representation, St James has become his own pilgrim.

Near-by is his alter image where he is represented as Matamoros or the Moor slayer. As a valiant warrior with billowing red clock he rides a spirited white horse beneath which lie slain Moors.

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October 21, 2004

Tardajos

Leaving Burgos I stopped at the Hospital de Rey; originally the city’s most important medieval pilgrim hospice, today it houses the university law faculty. Old buildings are most successfully blended with contemporary. The same materials are used, window shapes repeated and roof levels kept. Parked nearby was the white van! I stopped for another tea and chat. Continuing westward was muddy and wet. Passing a large prison in the rain after 10 k I stopped at the cozy municipal albergue in Tardajos. The Spanish houseparents were most welcoming and took a ‘family photo’ of all ‘their’ pilgrims.

October 22, 2004

Hontanas

Worried that I was progressing too slowly I walked 20 k in drizzle over ochre colored hills. Characterized by huge piles of cleared stones this bleak landscape, the immense Castillan plateau, is known as the ‘Meseta’. Treeless, it must be hot as hell in summer. I ate and slept at the municipal albergue in Hontanas. Ordinary plywood had been used imaginatively for sleeping platforms, divisions and doors within the dorm. A big fireplace warmed the ground floor dining room. Eighteen pilgrims including a fellow from Tokyo sat around one central table. Supper was soup, rice, fried eggs, salad and yogurt plus red wine. Simple but very tasty!

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October 23, 2004

Itero de la Vega

Gaining physical stamina and greater confidence I resolved to try to hike at least 20 k each day from now on. Brilliant autumn sunshine also helped my determination. Passing beneath the arched portal of the abandoned San Anton monastery the picturesque route continued to Casterojerez.

Distant on a hill were the remains of a 13th century castle; this was ‘postcard’ Spain. Dedicated to the Virgin Mary the exhibit in the Santo Maria del Manzano museum was a pleasure. Both the installation and the artifacts were first rate. It took nearly half an hour to traverse the town, which has one long main street, the Camino.

On the west after a medieval bridge the trail suddenly climbed steeply up the Mostelares plateau. Plodding alone was a young English man; we shared our water supply and walked on chatting. Last year he had walked all the Camino except for a few kilometers, which he was presently completing. After slowly crossing an immense dry plain eventually we arrived at Itero de la Vega. A stork and its shaggy nest were perched on top of the church tower. Next door was the municipal albergue; it had 18 single beds, not bunks. Parked in front was the white van! A Quebec woman pilgrim, the English fellow, and I shared conversation, salad and pasta offered that night by our gracious ‘guardian angel’.

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October 24, 2004

Fromista

The van was gone in the morning; I never saw it again. Philosophizing about the magic of ephemeral encounters the English pilgrim and I trudged out across the empty plain. The trail had become a wide gravel path.

At Boadilla del Camino was a splendid Gothic baptismal font and behind the church a Rollo or tall stone cross decorated with shells. During the Middle Ages trials and executions would have taken place at such a marker.

The 18th century locks along the cut of the Canal de Castilla were impressive; nearby was Fromista, with a most perfect, small church, San Martin. On the exterior several hundred carved figures decorate the eave corbels below the roof. Tourists and pilgrims filled the de-consecrated interior. Directly opposite was the crowded albergue. After cheese and wine the Englishman said good-bye and caught a bus since his ‘empty link’ was now filled.

October 25, 2004

Carrion de los Condes

Next day the Quebecoise and I covered 20 k. The Camino, flat and broad, paralleled the provincial road; low concrete posts or bollards decorated with ceramic shells marked the way. Mid morning we drank a welcome cup of tea at an outdoor café that had been set up in someone’s shed to service pilgrims. Non-traditional ad hoc structures such as this would occur more frequently along the trail from now on. If only one in every ten passing pilgrims bought something, the potential profit was still substantial. We stopped at Villalcazar de Sirga to visit the fortress-church, Santa Maria la Blanca. Massive and austere it had been built in the 13th century by the Knights Templar.

At Carrion de los Condes we stayed in the monastery of Santa Clara sharing a twin bedded room with clean sheets. What luxury! St Francis of Assisi during his pilgrimage to Santiago in the early 13th century is supposed to have stopped in the same monastery. The medieval city had been an important commercial and political center with more than seven pilgrim hospices.

October 26, 2004

Calzadilla de la Cueza

Next morning we visited the handsome Monastery of San Zoilo on the western edge of town across the river Carrion. This monumental complex today is in part a luxury hotel, where we treated ourselves to an elegant coffee; another part houses the Centro de Etudios del Camino de Santiago, a research center and library. The monastery chapel and splendid 16th century cloister have been preserved. The Quebecoise said a hasty “au revoir” and caught a bus to Leon. She would cover in an hour and half bus ride what would take me a week to walk! I continued alone along the trail.

Following an old Roman road, the Via Trajana, this perfectly straight section of Camino was paved. There was nothing but fields of grain and me. Lonesome I waved to a tractor across the distant fields. After 16 k which seemed endless I reached the tiny hamlet of Calzadilla de la Cueza. I stopped at the pleasant, private albergue. Nearby was the only restaurant. A man eating at the table next to mine smiled. “Oh it’s you!” he said. He then explained to his wife that he had seen me earlier while riding his tractor. Small world, indeed!

October 27, 204

Sahagun

Early in the morning I rejoiced that after 4 weeks on the Camino the mid way point in kilometrage to Santiago was passed. Only 387 more to go! Envisioning an imaginary trail map divided in two I was starting on the second half. Under gray skies and increasing rain the path became slippery brown mud across brown fields. Cold, wet and slightly depressed at Moratinos I stopped for coffee and stayed for lunch. This humble hamlet had one café and one street, the Camino or Calle de la Francesa. The simple brick church was closed. Brick construction is typical of the Mudejar period, named for the Moors who remained in Spain after the Reconquest in the Middle Ages.

Eventually I arrived at Sahagun. It was hard to realize that this sprawling provincial town for centuries had held the most powerful Benedictine monastery in Spain, equivalent to Cluny in France. ‘Facundo’, the name of a local martyr, became ‘Sanctum Facundum’, the name of the monastery, which evolved into ‘Safagun’ and later ‘Sahagun’. Most of the huge complex was destroyed in a 19th century fire.

A clever contemporary steel sculpture of St James dressed as a pilgram (his head was a garden spade) marked the entrance to the municipal albergue. It was a friendly place in a unused church building. There were several other women pilgrims; one Swiss, Mirta, and I decided to hike together.

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October 28, 2004

El Burgo Ranero

The 18 k to El Burgo Ranero were cold, windy, wet and rather boring. At least it was flat along the new, wide path built by the regional government. One contemporary monument along the route commemorates the life of Millan Brovo Lozano, the priest and scholar whose guidebook, A Practical Guide for Pilgrims, I used. Meeting again the young Spanish woman who had stayed at Villamayor de Monjardin was a pleasant surprise; now she was the housemother in the municipal albergue. Most of the buildings in the town were adobe.

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October 29, 2004

Mansilla de las Mulas

Crossing a vast monotonous plateau dotted with arroyos or gullies after 18 k Mirta and I entered the medieval city walls of Mansilla de las Mulas. These massive walls, in some place three meters thick, were built in the 12th century using enormous stones from the river Elsa. The etymology of the town’s name is mano en silla , hand on saddle of the mules. There is a rich tradition of livestock fairs and horse sales; many vernacular buildings are adobe. Built around a central open patio the municipal albergue cum tourist office had several small dorms and no hot water. A new water heater was being installed and tested. Past midnight all were awakened by several loud bangs. It failed the test!

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October 30, 2004

Leon

It was cold and dangerous hiking 17 k into the city of Leon; several times the Camino crossed a busy highway. Along the way Mirta and I met an older Englishman who walked with us. We all stayed in the Benedictine convent, Santa Maria de la Carbajalas; it had large separate dorms for men and women pilgrims, but no heat. Nearby was the massive Gothic cathedral; magnificent stained glass illuminated the interior. On the main western façade is a sculpture of St James. Another important religious building was the Basilica de San Isidoro. Dating from the 11th century the walls and low ceiling are covered with Romanesque frescoes in muted tones; the biblical figures are weighty and outlined in a nervous black line. Memorable.

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October 31, 2004

Villadangos del Paramo

Early next morning Mirta and I crossed Leon by following the bronze shells set in the sidewalk to mark the Camino. They were not so easy to find since they lay beneath our feet. On the western side of the city is the magnificent Monastery of San Marcos. Dating from the 16th century it is sumptuous with Santiago Matamoros over the doorway and a multitude of shells carved on the façade. Originally a pilgrims’ hospice today it is a luxury national hotel or parador. Sitting on a bench facing it is a wonderful contemporary sculpture representing St James as a tired pilgrim!

Seven k out of the city is the village La Virgen del Camino. The town is named for a famous 15th century figure of the Virgin holding the dead body of Christ. Today the figure is in a splendid contemporary church designed in the 1960s by a Dominican monk. Basically a glass box, giant stylized metal sculptures of the Apostles cover the west façade. It, too, is a gem. After a further 14 k over a barren plain, but under glorious sunshine and a deep blue sky, Mirta and I arrived at the municipal albergue in Villadangos del Paramo. It had been a tiring day.

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November 1,2004

Hospital de Orbigo

In the mirror the next morning my face appeared tanned and slimmer; I briefly thought ‘not too bad, considering’. Unfortunately pride goeth before a fall…

After 10 k on the Camino and crossing the long medieval bridge over the river Orbigo we entered the town of Hospital de Orbigo. Attempting to photograph the parish church I lost my footing and fell head first onto the irregular pavement! My pack crashed into my right shoulder. I was flat on the ground; my forehead and shoulder hurt like hell! Gently Mirta and a Mexican pilgrim helped me up. An egg was quickly swelling on my forehead (by day’s end I resembled Cyclopes). Out of nowhere a kind Spanish couple appeared and the man said “Don’t worry, madam, I am a Chevalier de Santiago and will help”. Examined at the regional hospital, I was told to rest, and see a doctor again the following day.

The Spanish couple graciously invited the Mexican, Mirta and me to lunch at their house. We met their grown sons and had a trilingual conversation. Our host explained that the Chevaliers de Santiago are a group of Catholic men, who have been nominated to become members and who pledge to foster the Camino and help all pilgrims. In the Spanish custom lunch lasted at least four hours! With my left hand I alternated holding ice to my head and trying to eat since my right shoulder and arm were extremely painful. Nevertheless, how, lucky I was to be able to move and to have found another ‘guardian angel’. That night Mirta and I spent in a pleasant new private albergue.

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November 2, 2004

Hospital de Orbigo

Next morning while I was still on my bunk the Chevalier and the local priest walked into the dorm to see how I was doing! Next the Chevalier and his wife took me to the local doctor whose office was adjacent to the church. When all three of us entered the examination room, the Chevalier said to the doctor “Another one has fallen!” It seems that in recent months others had also fallen on the same new paving where I stumbled. The doctor checked my eyes, gave me simple pain killers and wished me good luck. Later Mirta and I ate again with the Chevalier and his family. Never will I forget their kindnesses and spontaneous gracious hospitality. It was heartfelt ‘caritas’.

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November 3, 2004

Murias de Rechivaldo

Putting my right arm into the knapsack strap and hoisting it up hurt like hell, but the Camino called. Stiff, sore and looking like a bruised raccoon I continued in the cold and fog. Only 273 k to go! Mirta and I walked through the city of Astorga, stopping briefly at the cathedral. The Palacio Episcopal was a wonderful late19th century building by Gaudi. Its conical twists and spikey wrought iron were typical of his version of Art Nouveau style. Behind were the Roman city walls.

Further west the landscape began to change; mountains appeared on the distant horizon and the earth was more orange in color. We stopped at a handsome new private albergue in the small hamlet of Murias de Rechivaldo. Encircling a central patio were several small low structures. Most were dorms (ours had a necessary iron stove); others included a common kitchen and a dining room. Walls were the color of terra cotta, with natural wood or dark green trim. Small details had been well designed; for example in front of each shower stall were two pairs of swinging doors. In the space between the two you undressed and left your clothes, then moved through the second set to the shower stall. Your clothes stayed protected and dry.

November 4, 2004

Rabanal del Camino

Mirta and I continued through the area known as the Maragateria; geographically resembling the American far west for centuries it had provided mules and muleteers. After a picnic snack perched on an age-old ledge in front of the tiny wayside church in the hamlet of El Ganso, our trail slowly started to climb. Eventually we stopped at Rabanal del Camino where the refuge Gaucelmo was another special place. Named after a local hermit it had been comfortably renovated by the Confraternity of St James. The fire burning in the library was most welcome. The Confraternity, an English group of pilgrims, had also published the useful, terse guidebook, The Camino Francés, which I used.

At sunset I took an evening stroll. A small Benedictine monastery was next door, opposite was the parish church; the colors of the sky were splendid in the crystalline air and I was very happy to just be.

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November 5, 2004

El Acebo

Leaving Rabanal we passed a memorial to a Swiss pilgrim who had died on the Camino. The trail continued to climb; we were really in the mountains. It was cold, the sky pale gray-blue as we crossed oak forest, broom and heather. At Cruz de Ferro, altitude 1504 meters, there is a small iron cross atop a tall wooden pole rising from a huge stone cairn. By tradition pilgrims have placed a stone carried from home on the giant pile as they pass; I added mine from our garden in France. Unfortunately the area was rather dirty and depressing with plastic streamers tied to the base of the pole à la Tibet. Mirta and I continued to El Acebo. There was one single street, the Camino, in this picturesque mountain village. We stayed in a private refuge above a restaurant. The pilgrims’ menu was tasty and the vernacular architecture interesting with continuous balconies on the second stories, but the unheated refuge was frigid! It was so cold that it was hard to sleep.

November 6, 2004

Ponferrada

On the way out the next morning there was a memorial to a German pilgrim killed while cycling. Now the Camino started descending steeply. After 7 k we finally found a place for breakfast in Molinaseca, another pretty town on the Meruelo river. It was most welcome; hiking is difficult on an empty stomach!

After a further 8 k we arrived at Ponferrada. In the 12th century the Knights Templar had built the magnificent castle with crenellated towers and turrets overlooking the river Sil. Somehow we had lost the trail and it was not easy to find the municipal albergue. An itinerant musician, Mirta and I ate a late lunch in a nearby workers club. Although recommended by the housefather, the atmosphere was rather gloomy. Lots of retired men (probably younger than I) were sitting about playing cards in the smoke filled rooms. Feeling very tired I went to bed early.

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November 7,2004

Villafranca del Bierzo

The next day we walked through Columbrianos, a strange circa 1930 company town with rows of duplex housing in concrete. Slowly the trail began to climb higher and higher through orchards and vineyards.

Suddenly near Pierros a field was filled with large 20th century classical sculpture in concrete; it was a shock to discover so much ‘art brut’.

Mirta and I trudged on to Villafranca del Bierzo. Since the municipal albergue was closed we stayed in an atmospheric private one. Several crowded dorms were grouped about a courtyard. Nearby was the tiny 12th century Santiago chapel. Stopping here medieval pilgrims too sick to continue were given the same indulgences as in Compostella. We had hiked 24 k and I was totally exhausted. During the night I was very ill suffering several bouts of intense diarrhea. Cold night air and the fact that the coed toilets were down a flight of slippery stairs and in the courtyard didn’t help! Back and forth I raced.

November 8, 2004

O Cebreiro

Weakened, but resolute, I was determined to continue. Mirta shared her supply of Imodium medicine, the housefather sent our packs to the next stop, and we set out. Unfortunately after walking 10 k to Trabedelo I was ill again. Luckily there was an open café; the waiter/owner called a friend and we were ‘taxied’ up to O Cebreiro. Mirta went to the municipal albergue and I found a room above a bar. Heated with private facilities, it was bliss. I thought I might stay forever. After a bath and long nap we met again for soup and a brief look about ‘town’.

The hamlet is very picturesque composed of a pre-Romanesque church and a handful of granite buildings. Some structures, pallozas, have straw roofs.

The weather was cold, but glorious with blue sky, bright sun and from the 1300 meters altitude wide views west across the next region, Galicia.

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November 9, 2004

Triacastela

Vowing to return someday to hike what had been missed, Mirta and I set out next morning. Winter had arrived; it was cold with thick fog. Finding the path was very difficult. Slowly we started descending through a few clusters of buildings. After a while suddenly the trail steeply climbed the Alto de Poio, altitude 1337 meters. Exhausted I staggered into the tiny wayside bar. Nervous that my weak condition was holding back Mirta, I suggested that we continue alone. After a final communal tea and toast, we wished each other “Bon Camino”. She would follow the trail and I the local road. Later in the afternoon I reached Triacastela; 21 k were enough for one day. Feeling much better yet still worried about my guts, I decided to find a private room in a small pension; I would continue to do this for the rest of my journey. After an early dinner I climbed into bed realizing that I had been hiking for 6 weeks.

November 10, 2004

Samos

Feeling much more energetic I hiked down the trail through the woods and along a stream to the giant monastery of Samos. En route the frame of my glasses broke, but was patchable with a band-aid! Parts of the Benedictine monastery complex are as early as the 9th century, but the majority was built in the 16th and 17th centuries. Much, however, had to be rebuilt after a fire in 1951. Still in use only sections can be visited. The new murals along the interior corridors were most impressive, combining biblical and historical figures in a Social Realist style. After finding a room I went to eat. The empty dining room was suddenly mobbed when the time was right. The copious pilgrim menu was truly delicious. I felt better!

November 11, 2004

Barbadelo

Next morning I walked along the river Ourbigo down through green woods to Sarria, a pleasant hillside provincial town where I bought a tiny pin and a ceramic tile; both were decorated with the Camino shell. The route became more and more picturesque; low, stonewalls crisscrossed the agricultural fields. I continued on to the hamlet of Barbadelo. The simple church dedicated to Santiago had one square tower; human and animal motifs adorned the doorway capitals. Over the door was carved a crude human figure. During the Middle Ages this had been part of a monastery, but no other structures remained. The weather had turned chill and rainy with billowing fog. Since I had covered 21 k I stopped at a farmhouse casa rural; it provided meals with bed and breakfast. Their Galician soup, chicken broth with potato, cabbage and sausage, was hearty and delicious; a tasty cake made with ground almonds, tortas de Santiago, served for desert. Unfortunately there was no heat in the rooms; it was necessary to put my sleeping bag inside the bed covers to get warm!

November 12, 2004

Portomarin

The Camino continued gently through fields, oak woods and tiny hamlets. One place was called Xisto, the Galician word for slate. At Ferreiros in the Middle Ages blacksmiths and ironmongers serviced the pilgrims’ horses. Nearby was Loyo where in the 12th century the Chevaliers of Santiago, the great Spanish order of chivalry, had been established. When passing this signpost I remembered fondly ‘my’ kind Chevalier at Hospital de Orbigo.

I spent the night in the new town of Portomarin. It replaced an important medieval site, which had been flooded in the 1960s during the construction of the nearby reservoir on the river Mino. Although one small church had been moved stone by stone from the lower old site and rebuilt up on the new, the general atmosphere of the new town center was stiff and unappealing. Searching for an inexpensive room after eating I inquired at the bar. A room was possible, the price perfect, the barman’s wife would show it to me. Not upstairs, but a block away, it was in a very new totally empty hotel! During this day an important imaginary line had been crossed, only 100 k remained before Santiago! Within 5 days I should arrive!

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November 13, 2004

Palas de Rei

Suddenly in a hurry I began to aim further and walk faster beneath a cobalt blue sky across the attractive undulating countryside thick with low walls, oak, pine and gorse. From time to time horreos were visible; these stone corncribs were raised off the ground on high plinths in the farmyards. Meeting again by chance two Czech young women who had been in the Sahagun albergue was a happy coincidence. Together we visited the 12th century church of El Salvador in Vilar de Donas, tucked away off the Camino. Presently undergoing restoration, it had been the official burial place of the Chevaliers de Santiago. The handsome main doorway had a splayed arch with geometric and vegetative carvings. On the interior were delicate 15th century frescos and several tombs topped with recumbent effigies of the knights. It was, indeed, a very special place. By late afternoon the weather turned cold and gray. We continued to Palas de Rei. My friends stopped at the albergue and I in a small hotel; by the end of the day another 24 k. had been covered.

November 14, 2004

Arzua

On this stretch the Camino crossed several rivers and many villages. Eventually the low, stonewalls disappeared while fern and tall fragrant eucalyptus appeared. Near Coto I ate a delicious second breakfast in the patio of a chic, but friendly, casa rural. To my surprise a small van of tourists stopped and a few ‘Sunday pilgrims’ with walking sticks, but no packs, exited to walk for only an hour or two in order to sample the trail! Spotting my pack and shell they asked “How long have you been walking?” “Forty-eight days!” I answered. They were most impressed.

Near Leboreiro the Camino, part of the old Roman route linking Lugo to Astorga, was paved with big flat stones. Melide had a busy open market in the town center. Since the Atlantic coast was close pulpo or octopus was for sale everywhere, a Galician specialty. Jumping across stones to forge the river near Boente de Baixo was a bit difficult. However, a single-arched medieval bridge crossed the river at Ribadiso do Baixo. Nearby was the apparently closed, but handsomely restored, old pilgrim hospital, now an albergue. Tired I trudged on to Arzua, a town famous for cheese shaped in cones. I found a small warm pension and ate in a bar across the street. Arriving at the end of lunch, about 6 pm, and exhausted, I was lucky to be served. Only 38 k to go!

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November 15, 2004

A Rua

In glorious sunshine and through more eucalyptus I walked 18 k. The Camino wound up and down through many villages often crisscrossing the busy provincial highway and quite dangerous. At Salceda a memorial to a pilgrim, aged 69, who had died just one day’s walk from Santiago replicated his walking boots. How lucky I was to have made it! I ate and stayed in a pleasant small hotel in A Rua. As late afternoon changed into the black of night, my last night on the Camino, I felt more and more nostalgic that my journey was ending.

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November 16, 2004

Santiago de Compostela

Up before dawn for this conclusive day I hoisted my pack and excitedly set off to cover the final 18 k. The Camino led through the woods and on country lanes. Villages appeared more frequently and grew larger. At Lavacolla the pilgrims’ world and the contemporary collided. Named for the act of washing one’s bottom, during the Middle Ages this riverside was the last cleansing place, before entry into the great city. The obligatory stop was a pilgrim rite, both physical and spiritual. Today the trail still passes the river, but both abut one runway of the international airport! Culture shock!

At Vilamaior two teenagers tended an information bureau. Noticing my bruised forehead and broken glasses they asked “how long have you been walking?” “Seven weeks exactly” I replied. Delighted, they smiled broadly, clapped hands and said “Oh, happy, happy day! You are almost there! Buen Camino!” I climbed the last hill, Monte del Gozo or Mount Joy. Across the centuries pilgrims arriving here with great happiness saw at last the cathedral towers on the horizon. Sadly what had been a verdant hillside is now a giant complex with 3000 beds for pilgrims. Quickly rushing past in search of my first view of the city I was chagrined to realize that today this eastern approach is filled with post war construction, hardly the legendary ‘city on the hill’.

The Camino followed the calle de los Concheiros (after conca or shell), rua de San Pedro and finally entered the medieval city through the Puerta del Camino. My heart beat faster as I hurried along the narrow pedestrian lanes, rua Casas Reales, rua das Animas and plaza Azabacheria (after jet jewelry craftsmen).

And there it was! The cathedral! Here I was at last! Oh happy, happy day!

Overcome with emotion I put my hand on the stone. Suddenly the giant bells began to ring; the sound was majestic. I did not enter then, but searched for the office of the Dean of the Cathedral. The assistant reviewed my Credencial with all its varied stamps representing each day’s stop on my journey, marked it with one final stamp, and issued the treasured Compostela which stated in Latin that I had devotedly completed the pilgrimage. Again I cried.

Hungry, tired and slightly overwhelmed I ate lunch and found a tiny hotel nearby. From my attic room I could see the rooftops. After a siesta I entered the cathedral through the great western portal. Slowly I walked down the dim barrel-vaulted nave towards the altar. In the central niche was the Romanesque stature of Santiago dressed as a pilgrim, gilded and inlaid with precious gems. Above this he is depicted as Matamoras, the Moor-slayer. Beneath the altar in the crypt his relics are enshrined in a splendid silver coffer.

Turning I saw the congregation assembling for evening mass. Other pilgrims whom I had met along the Camino were present; we nodded, silently smiled and gestured a euphoric thumbs up, not wanting to break the sacred silence. After mass I sat in the cathedral for a long time.

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November 17, 2004

leaving Santiago de Compostela

I awakened hearing the ringing bells. Although the city is a bustling university town my morning’s sightseeing concentrated on the cathedral. The first church was begun in the 9th century; the present in the 11th. Seen from the plaza de Obradoiro, the main western facade is 18th century; it has two soaring towers and a double ramp staircase. Hidden behind this is the old Romanesque façade, known as the Portico de Gloria. Now inside the cathedral this has three arched openings and many sculpted figures. The center column is carved with a Tree of Jesse above which sits Santiago. Pilgrims traditionally touched this column in thanksgiving; now the stone is worn away.

On the opposite side of the cathedral, the eastern façade is viewed from the plaza de la Quintana. Here is the 17th century Puerta Santa or holy door. It is opened only during a Holy Year, when St James’ day, the 25th of July, occurs on a Sunday. 2004 was a Holy Year and the doorway was open.

The bells tolled for the main pilgrims’ mass at noon. The cathedral was densely crowded; the service most impressive. It concluded in a great cloud of fragrant smoke from the botafumeiro, a giant silver censer. Eight churchmen swung it in front of the altar; on a long rope sailing back and forth across the transept it nearly touched the ceiling!

.....

Later after boarding the train that would carry me back across Spain to France and home, I slowly began to realize that my dream was fulfilled. The real world was returning. My Camino had become a memory, but a memory I shall treasure forever.

Ultreia!

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2009-09-15T01:15:00.000-07:00

Camino 2 - 2005/2006

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October 3, 2005

Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port

Exactly one year after completing my first Camino I decided to re-walk the pilgrimage route to try and recapture its special spirit. This time my pack would be lighter; from 8 kilos I was able to cut back to 6.5 by using a smaller knapsack and a more compact sleeping bag ecumenically named Little Buddha as well as wearing lightweight runners’ tights and technical tee shirts. The rest of my kit remained the same, but Mo stayed home. One trip is enough with a stuffed moose!

Bill drove me to the TGV in Paris. We said our goodbyes on the quai and I was off on the morning train to Bayonne. After a few minutes of emotional shock and slight depression at being alone the five-hour trip went quickly. At Bayonne I changed to the tiny two car local train for Saint- Jean-Pied-de-Port. It was easy to spot other pilgrims. All had knapsacks, wore hiking boots and looked slightly apprehensive. I sat next to a woman from Tahiti who was also redoing part of the Camino since she had found her first journey so unforgettable. We compared memories.

At Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port I revisited the offices of the French Amis du Chemin and obtained my new Credencial or pilgrim pass and scallop shell. The Credential allowed me to stay at pilgrim albergues and would be stamped at each stop. The shell is a symbol of St James and visually identified me as a pilgrim. I hung it with pride on the back of my pack. Many carved shells decorate doorway lintels and latches along the old streets of the town. Three Italian pilgrims and I went to the Amis’ albergue, had a simple supper and would sleep in the same co-ed dorm. The three repacked their heavy knapsacks several times once they realized how small mine was!

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October 4, 2005

Valcarlos

The Italians and I set off together in a chilly dawn. Our trail to the Spanish border crossed farmland. At Valcarlos where the albergue is run by the town I stopped while the Italians continued on. I got the key, paid my donativo or contribution and took a welcome hot shower. After a hearty late Spanish lunch in a near-by restaurant I called Bill to wish him well on his journey to the states and spent the afternoon reading alone. Late in the day an older French bicyclist arrived. A retired farmer, he was so surprised to find an American woman who lived in France walking on the Camino that he cell-phoned his wife with the news! Discussing our philosophies and dreams he and I talked for a long time during the evening over several hot cups of tea.

October 5, 2005

Roncevalles

In sunshine I climbed up 19 k to the famous mountaintop monastery at Roncevalles. The hike was tiring but not as exhausting as it had been the year before. At the Ibaneta pass purple autumn crocus bloomed along the steep path. By chance the bicyclist from Valcarlos arrived just after I did. After lunch together we shook hands and wished each other “Buen Camino”. We never met again. That night spent in the 80-bunk, unheated dorm with a handful of other pilgrims was very cold. How might it be in winter?

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October 6, 2005

Larrasoana

Without breakfast through fog lit by early morning stars I started west from the monastery. The descending trail crisscrossed gated farmland. Walking past Zubiri where I had stayed in 2004 after a tiring day of 26 k I arrived at the crowded municipal albergue in Larrasoana. Arriving at the single shower stall I collided with an exhausted Australian chap. Laughing he bowed and graciously said “Since I’ve waited 3 days to get clean another 15 minutes hardly matters. Please go first”. I did. The hot water was great! For dinner he and I joined some other pilgrims at a local café. Later as I climbed into my sleeping bag my legs began to ache. Was I trying to walk too far too quickly?

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October 7, 2005

Cizur Menor

The trail meandered along the river Arga. At times the weather was actually hot and humid. Since the Trinidad monastery at Arre where I had stayed previously was closed for restoration I continued to Pamplona. Revisiting the handsome cathedral and cloister was an aesthetic pleasure, but crossing the busy city was nerve wracking. It’s difficult to shift mood from pastoral hiking to congested sidewalks especially while wearing a full pack! After 20 k I stopped at the pleasant private albergue in Cizur Menor. By night it was so full that late arrivals were turned away.

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October 8, 2005

Obanos

Up well before dawn I was nervous walking in the dark. Today’s trail would climb up the Sierra del Perdon, which in 2004 had been an ordeal. Eventually a glorious sunrise exploded on the eastern horizon; a coral orb began to light the now pale blue sky while I ate a breakfast cereal bar, drank a bit of water and hoped for the best. Then the trail began to really rise. Mid morning at last the mountaintop was reached with its wonderful line of sculpted metal pilgrims in silhouette. Continuing down to Obanos was not too difficult. Much of the sunny afternoon was spend sitting in the park waiting for the pleasant albergue to open. An Argentine couple and I were the only pilgrims.

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October 9, 2005

Puente la Reina

Starting early I walked slightly south to watch dawn break at the magnificent church of Eunate. This early Romanesque octagonal space surrounded by an arrcaded cloister is truly timeless. Standing in solitary splendor in the midst of fields its shape links it to medieval buildings of the Knights Templer whose prototype was the Holy Sepulcher in Jerusalem. An eight-part roof covers the mystical interior lit by a few small windows; I sat inside for a long time in awe and thanksgiving.

Pensively I walked back through Obanos and on to Puente la Reina. Passing the contemporary pilgrim sculpture where all the routes join into one Camino I crossed the famous medieval bridge and stopped at a private albergue on the west of town.

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October 10, 2005

Estella

The bucolic route to Estella followed in part an ancient paved Roman path flanked with tall pencil-thin cypresses. Who had laid these antique stones and planted these age-old trees? Pondering the ghosts of history in 20 k I arrived at the crowded municipal albergue where a large wooden scallop shell marked the entrance. After sightseeing a bit and resting a lot I ate an early dinner in a good local café with some other pilgrims.

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October 11, 2005

Villamayor de Monjardin

At the abundant wine fountain in Irache other tippling pilgrims and I shared an early morning drink. Refreshed I visited the massive Romanesque monastery complex begun in the 11th century. Now partly used as a cultural center, the interior of the church is simple and pure, the later fan vaulted cloister more elaborate. I stopped in the early afternoon in Villamayor de Monjardin at the parish albergue. This simple place offered welcome trail-side seats and hospitality to every passing pilgrim. The hospitalero was from Switzerland. She and I talked for a long time about life and the Camino.

October 12, 2005

Torres del Rio

Unfortunately, the good weather changed to heavy rain and the exposed trail became thick, slippery mud. I slid, lost balance and fell. There would be no shelter for 7 k. Bedraggled in my mud-splashed poncho at last I limped the hilltop hamlet of Sansol. There were no facilities but a kind woman leaned out her kitchen window and offered a steaming cup of café con leche. Delicious! At the cold municipal albergue at Torres del Rio four other pilgrims and I tried to dry out, get warm and relax. It was difficult. The rain continued and the toilets were Turkish. For comfort it was not too great. Eventually we five visited the splendid church. Octagonal like Eunate it too is associated with the Knights Templer. Since the albergue had no kitchen and the only restaurant in town was closed, the houseparents offered to cook us dinner in their nearby house if we paid for the food. We did!

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October 13,14, 2005

Viana

I was sick in the night with tourists’ tummy. In continuous rain it was a cold, miserable up and down struggle of 12 k to Viana, the next town. One ravine, the Mataburros or mule killer, was well named. Crossing it almost did me in. Exhausted I collapsed in a small hotel. Unfortunately my room was up one flight of stairs. What an effort! At least it was warm and dry. After a full day of rest and several doses of Ibuprofin for the pain I decided to try and go on.

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October 15, 2005

Logrono

I should have rested longer. Walking 9 k into the city of Logrono was difficult; neither my legs nor guts were in condition. It was almost impossible to move. At the municipal albergue I met a Corsican man who had also fallen in the storm cracking three ribs. Next day depressed and commiserating we shared a taxi to the bus station. He left for Madrid and a train home and I for Irun and the TGV to Paris. The continuation of my second Camino would have to wait….....

February 19, 2006

Logrono

Four months later I would set out again. After a series of trains throughout the day and into the night, I arrived back in Logrono. For winter weather thermal underwear as well as sturdy rubber sandals to wear with sox indoors, were added to my kit. The rest stayed the same.

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February 20, 2006

Navarette

Hoping for the best I repeated to myself the ageless term, Ultreia! Meaning further or onward, it has been spoken by countless pilgrims for courage across the centuries. Outside of Navarette in the countryside a few almond trees were blooming. One walker was wearing shorts! Might these be signs of an early spring? The municipal albergue was closed so I stayed in a new private one. It had many bunks and lockable chests to store packs, but no other pilgrims. Snuggling into my sleeping bag it felt good to be back on the Camino.

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February 21, 2006

Najera

The 14 k hike to Najera was windy and wet; light rain turned into a hint of snow. While trudging in poncho, woolly hat and gloves yesterday’s intimations of spring seemed fantastic. It was great to get out of the weather into the large municipal hostel. Assembled from prefabricated one-story units it could hold 100 pilgrims; there were about 10. The kind hospitalero turned on powerful ceiling blowers for heat and helped everyone dry out his boots. Hot water for showers was plentiful.

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February 22, 2006

Santo Domingo de la Calzada

It was cold but dry walking across frozen vineyards. Snow-capped mountains rose on the horizon. At Azofra my hiking staff was repaired while I ate breakfast. Mid Camino a medieval, stone cross marked one turn; how many countless pilgrims had passed this transition point across the ages? After imagining an unending timeless mob and conscious that I was treading where ‘their feet had trod’ it was doubly surprising when later in the morning the trail crossed a brand new golf course and upmarket housing estate! Tempora mutantur!

After 21 k I arrived at Santo Domingo de la Calzada. The tiny parish albergue was in an historic building close to the cathedral. Unheated it was too cold to even consider a shower. An Irish guy and I shared hot tea and talk.

February 23, 2006

Granon

While revisiting the famous cathedral I heard the chickens crow! Within the sanctuary a live cock and hen are kept in a Gothic coop in memory of a local legend involving a pilgrim and an innkeeper’s daughter. Other visitors not acquainted with the legend were shocked as the farmyard call broke the religious silence!

The 6 k morning walk to Granon was cold, gray and slightly slippery as light snow began to fall. Fondly remembering my 2004 stop I arrived at the parish albergue. Installed within a church tower and always open, it is a special place. In the gloom I mounted the winding stairs. The sign still read “Welcome pilgrim make this your home”. The handsome common room, large fireplace and sleeping loft appeared the same.

No one was about. I made tea, took a hot shower, and listened to the wind now howling outside. At Spanish lunchtime around 3 pm. the hospitalero, a Cuban émigré, appeared. He and another workman were trying to repaint the church interior. Unfortunately the paint was starting to freeze! We three shared a great lunch and much later, huddled next to the blazing fire, dinner. Elsewhere it was really cold.

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February 24, 2006

Belorado

All night the wind blew. In the morning I asked about the weather forecast. “No problem, this is not the Montes de Oca”, replied the Cuban. Little did I suspect the ominous conditions hidden in his answer! Sad at leaving such a cozy place I walked 16 k across snow-dusted fields in milky sunshine to Belorado. The private albergue was cold, without heat, hot water or ambience. Fellow pilgrims were a group of noisy middle-aged German men; all snored.

February 25,26, 2006

Villafranca Montes de Oca

It started to snow in earnest. By the time I trekked 10 k to Villafranca Montes de Oca the Camino was covered with 2 or 3 inches. Walking had become dangerous. After lunch in a truck stop, I went to the municipal albergue. No one was about, but the front door and one dormitory were open. No heat in the radiators, but piles of blankets and a hot plate. Considering the alternative it was great! Mid afternoon I snuggled into my sleeping bag; outside the storm steadily intensified. As night fell the radiators started up. How lucky I was!

About 9 pm. the front door banged open followed by steps up the stairs. Resembling snow-covered yetis, two pilgrims stood at the foot of my bunk! One guy was French, the other Brazilian. We introduced ourselves and shared many cups of hot tea.

Early in the morning the Frenchman left. Outside was a winter wonderland. The snow continued to fall. Over breakfast of cereal bars and instant coffee the Brazilian, S, said he was a lawyer and recounted his story. He had come on the Camino as a religious penitent offering thanks for the recently improved health of his girlfriend who had been seriously ill. Landing in Marseilles he had been robbed. By means of the graciousness of various parish priests along the way, he had made it thus far without money or credit card. Wary, dubious and uncertain I listened. Eventually I decided to help, silently recalling that trust, the commonality of all pilgrims and the necessity for caritas are principles along the Camino.

Bundling up for the storm plastic bags over sox served as makeshift gaiters. Outside the snow reached mid-shin. No trail could be seen; only a few markers affixed to trees were apparent. Walking was treacherous. At a road crossing S and I were intercepted by the Guarda Civil in a four-wheel drive. Firmly stating that our lives were imperiled the police insisted on us returning
to the albergue. Their photographer took my picture.

Returning in their skidding van was really the risk, what a roller coaster ride! Back in the albergue S cooked pasta. In a cupboard of leftovers was discovered a half full bottle of Rioja wine. No rare vintage year ever tasted better!

February 27, 2006

Burgos

The storm was over but it was still impossible to walk, since the next sector involved crossing the snow covered Montes de Oca. After taking the bus to Burgos we entered a café where the barman was reading the local paper. He looked up, looked down and then turned the paper towards us; our pictures were on page 3! No free coffee for the celebrities, however. We found space in the municipal albergue on the west side of the city. A series of wooden chalets filled with bunk beds and many other pilgrims, it was wonderfully warm.

Late in the afternoon sunshine I walked back to revisit the cathedral. One of my favorite representations of St James is in the treasury; small, about 30cm tall, in gold with intricate curly beard and hair, wearing his wide brimmed hat and iconic shell he holds a pilgrim’s staff complete with water gourd. Perfect.

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February 28, 2006

Hornillos del Camino

S tried to call a friend in Portugal for money without success; I loaned him 100 euros and we went on. Back on the Camino the sun shone and sky was cobalt blue, but the temperature was below freezing and bitter cold. Although the path was flat the wind was fierce. Treeless this immense Castillian plateau known as the ‘Meseta’ must be hot as hell in summer, but it felt like the Klondike. We trudged 20 k across frozen mud and snowdrifts to Hornillos del Camino. Unheated, the municipal albergue was frigid, dismal and empty; at least there were blankets. An old farmer who lived nearby and served as hospitalero brought us cocoa powder and milk. We cooked pasta in the basement kitchen and crawled into our sleeping bags piled with blankets. Never in my life including the Canadian years have I spent the night in a colder interior space! Our breath hung suspended in the air!

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March 1, 2006

Hontanas

We continued. The bitter weather was the same with brilliant sun, blue sky, howling wind, and frozen snow. In order to keep up morale we talked on and on. Half my age and trilingual in Portuguese, Spanish and English S said that I reminded him of his mother. He could be very humorous; when he imitated Dixie accents from the American South I shook with laughter as icy tears of amusement rolled down my cheeks. What a surreal situation this was! The oddity of the setting, the disparity in our lives as well as the heady mix of banal, philosophic and absurd conversation resembled some play by Samuel Beckett! One might call it “The Snow Job”. After 10 k we arrived in Hontanas. A new private albergue was open, well heated and spotless; the showers had marble floors and limitless hot water! True bliss.

March 2, 2006

Castrojeriz

The weather turned milder as we walked 20 k out of the snow and into the mud. After passing beneath the great arch of the ruined St Anthony monastery which once cared for medieval pilgrims we stopped at Castrojeriz. One bar with a Brazilian connection was most welcoming; the hot coffee and buttered toast were flamboyantly served! Deep sticky mud slowed the climb up the Mostelares plateau to Itero de la Vega. The private albergue was a dorm room within a simple inn outside town. Local trout stuffed with ham comprised the first good hot dinner in quite a while! In late evening two young German guys arrived lugging huge knapsacks.

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March 3, 2006

Fromista

In a light rain but blustery wind we walked 14 k to Fromista. On the edge of town the Camino crossed the 18th century canal of Castille. On the main square is the wonderful 11th century church of San Martin. No longer consecrated it is now a museum. Hundreds of different small figures are carved along the roof-line on the exterior eaves. S imagined returning here someday to marry his girlfriend. Nearby the municipal albergue was cold and surprisingly crowded. Additional pilgrims arrived during the night.

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March 4, 2006

Carrion de los Condes

Hiking was cold and tiring against strong wind in heavy rain; covering 20 k was an effort. Along the way several contemporary sculptures cleverly depicted pilgrims. At Carrion de los Condes we stayed in the same Clarist monastery as I had been in 2004. In one snug dorm besides S and myself were 2 guys, a young Japanese and an older Quebecois named B. We four shook hands and performed a type of ballet in order to squeeze between the bunks and knapsacks; wet hiking sox and woolly hats were draped all over. Space was really tight!

B seemed hyper-fastidious as he repeatedly rolled the items in his pack to get the fit just so and rechecked his guidebook. He asked if we had met any other Quebecois nearby. When I answered no he smiled and explained. When planning his pilgrimage an acquaintance named A had decided to join him. After one day and a half on the Camino walking together became impossible. Their styles were completely opposite; B was too intense and A extremely relaxed. They separated hoping to never cross paths!! …And so it goes.

March 5, 2006

Calzadilla de la Cueza

We had breakfast coffee in the old Monastery of San Zollo. During the Middle Ages this had been a pilgrim refuge; today it combines a luxury hotel and Camino research center. Walking 16 k to Calzadilla de la Cueza in milky sunshine was a pleasure; the straight, flat path followed an antique Roman route. The hospitalero was most welcoming and the municipal albergue warm and comfortable. The one other pilgrim was a doctor from Indiana; unfortunately he had bad blisters. The four of us happily consumed a copious meal together in the only bar/restaurant.

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March 6, 2006

Sahagun

Perhaps I “overdid” when enjoying that copious meal since I had tummy problems in the night. S had run out of my money so I loaned him another 100 euros. It was a long tiring 24 k trek across bleak fields. However at San Nicolas we had a delicious lunch in a small wayside place where I had stopped in 2004. Their rabbit stew was great! At Sahagun we stopped at the large municipal albergue installed upstairs within a old church. Plywood partitions divided the huge space into alcoves with four bunks in each. Unheated it was too cold to try a shower. The few other pilgrims included one guy traveling by bicycle. In the middle of the night footsteps stumbled up the stairs. Since there was no live-in hospitalero a local drunk had come in to sleep; he was gone by morning.

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March 7, 2006

El Burgo Ranero

Next day we walked 18 k across a bleak plain to El Burgo Ranero. The weather was so mild that I removed one layer! Had spring come at last? Near La Graneras stood a monument in memory of father Millan Bravo Lozano. His invaluable guidebook, A Practical Guide for Pilgrims, had been useful for planning my trips. Two men were at the albergue. One, L, was also from Brazil and the other was the Quebecois, A. As if on cue he asked if B had been passed recently! After a welcome hot shower we all ate in the local truck stop.

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March 8, 2006

Mansilla de las Mulas

The 20 k trek crossed monotonous, flat fields to Mansilla de las Mulas. Recurrent tummy troubles made it especially unpleasant and tiring for me. Other pilgrims at the municipal albergue included the two men from the night before as well as an older Belgian couple. They had walked from Antwerp and had been on route since early January! Without knapsacks they pushed their luggage in a remodeled ice cream cart!! Highly motivated and intensely focused they intended to walk back to Antwerp from Santiago; early June was their estimated time of arrival home! What perseverance!

March 9,10, 2006

Leon

Much of the 17 k walk to Leon was harrowing and dangerous since the Camino often crossed a busy national highway. We stayed at the Benedictine convent of Santa Maria de Carvajal. Centrally located near the cathedral it was very hospitable; at the entrance desk a big bowl offered delicious homemade cookies. Although it was a large place there were fewer than 20 pilgrims. Since I felt miserable I asked to stay two nights. The helpful hospitalero asked the Mother Superior and an exception was made to the usual one night rule. Feeling better in the morning I walked about the historic city revisiting the cathedral and the magnificent cloister of San Marcos. After S spent a lot of time on the telephone he announced that a bank debit card had been air-expressed to Ponferrada, a future stop about 80 k away, and asked if meanwhile could he borrow another 100 euros as a last loan.

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March 11, 2006

Villadangos del Paramo

Breakfast before leaving Leon was delicious thick hot chocolate and thin strips of crullers, local specialties. At the handsome new church in Virgen del Camino the contemporary stained glass was splendid. Afterwards it was a long slog of 21 k in sunshine to the municipal albergue at Villadangos del Paramo. L and A were the only other pilgrims. After showers and a siesta we four had a jolly dinner within the caves of a nearby wine bodega.

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March 12, 2006

Hospital de Orbigo

Walking was easy on the flat Camino in warm sunshine. We stopped after 10 k at Hospital de Orbigo where I had fallen in 2004. The parish priest kindly unlocked the albergue for us. Six men and I were the only pilgrims. By night the place, which was built around an open patio, resembled a setting from Tennessee Williams; all their stuff was spread across the patio! One Dutch guy who had just begun his journey argued that my second pilgrimage was mere tourism! I strongly disagreed and tried to defend my own motivations explaining that I walked the Camino in respect and awe.

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March 13, 2006

Murias de Rechivaldo

It was a long walk across the fields to Astorga; the sky was cobalt, the soil orange and the sun hot. I took off another layer! Spring at last! However, on the distant horizon snow-capped mountains marked our future route. After a picnic lunch facing the archbishop’s palace designed by Gaudi we eventually stopped at a private albergue in Murias de Rechivaldo. It, too, was built around an open patio, but this was a new series of low volumes which used earth colored materials in the vernacular tradition. It was handsome and very comfortable. For dinner the helpful Swiss hospitalero cooked potato pancakes and chops with homemade applesauce!

March 14, 2006

Rabanal del Camino

The perfect weather continued as the trail started to gently rise. Nothing would be flat for the next week or so. Wondering how it would be crossing those distant mountains, in 15 k we stopped at a picturesque mountain town, Rabanal del Camino. Since the albergue run by the British Confraternity of St James where I had stayed in 2004 was closed, we tried a private one. It was packed with more than 40 pilgrims and yet only one toilet seemed to be working! For comfort’s sake I went to a small hotel; S stayed at the albergue. When we met for dinner he said that he had telephoned home and now would have to leave the Camino the next day since his mother was seriously ill. Shocked we talked of little else.

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March 15, 2006

El Acebo

At breakfast S said that he had telephoned the only albergue in Ponferrada and told the hospitalero to give me the air-expressed parcel. We said our goodbyes, kissed each other’s cheeks and he left. Alone I started climbing up the trail to cross the mountains.
It was a beautiful solitary trek of 17 k in brilliant sunshine beneath a vivid blue sky.

I paused at the mythic Cruz de Ferro. At 1504 meters this is considered the highest point on the Camino. Throughout time pilgrims have placed a stone carried from home at the base of the simple iron cross which tops a tall wooden stake. Pensively I added my stone to the giant cairn and hoped for the best for S and his mother. Thankful of my own great good luck in just being I further hoped to be able to cope with whatever life might bring. Ultreia! Early in the afternoon I stopped at a private albergue above a restaurant in El Acebo. After a hearty late lunch and welcome hot shower I simply rested. No other pilgrims appeared.

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March 16, 2006

Ponferrada

In predawn blackness the restaurant chef knocked on the dorm door and said that breakfast was ready! On the way out of the village I pasted a memorial to a German pilgrim killed while cycling.

The trail was steep so I walked down the mountain on the road. After 15 k upon arrival at the only albergue in Ponferrada, I asked about the air-express package from Brazil. No package had arrived, nor had any of the three hospitaleros who lived on site ever spoken by telephone with S! “Nada”; there was nothing. Chagrined I wandered about town.

Since then the events of those days have been mulled repeatedly. In retrospect I do not want to believe that I had been milked for money in a real snow job! Hopefully all was not just a ruse and I had not been duped. At least what I did was done in the Camino spirit of trust and mutual assistance. I still firmly believe one must act towards others “as ye would that men should do to you”. Let it be.

March 17, 2006

Villafranca del Bierzo

It was cloudy and cool as I started out of town. The Camino was difficult to follow; the signage seemed particularly skimpy. A kind old man walking his dog led me back to the trail. Slowly it started to climb up into another range of mountains; the air became cold. After passing through the almost abandoned village of Pieros I arrived at Villafranca del Bierzo. 23 k was enough for one day! Only the private albergue was open and very crowded. New hot showers had been installed since 2004 when I had stayed. It is composed of an ad hoc series of volumes and levels surrounding an open courtyard. Past midnight the dorm door banged open. A British female voice loudly complained to her silent partner “but this is just a shack!” After two voluminous knapsacks thudded onto the floor, all the now awakened pilgrims yelled for quiet!

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March 18, 2006

Ruitelan

Through rain and eventual sleet I walked 18 k. Villages were more and more remote as the trail steadily grew steeper. At Ruitelan I stopped at a tiny private albergue. It was Buddhist yet very ecumenical. On the unpainted wooden walls were hung a Christian cross, pictures of the Dalai Lama and a card hand lettered, shalom, the Hebrew word for peace. The hospitalero offered a welcoming cup of hot tea. I was the only pilgrim. My solitary dinner, served on a scrubbed wooden table, included soup, rice, fried eggs, cheese, bread, wine and fruit. One fat candle lit the room and next to the clean cloth napkin was a long green iris leaf fresh from the garden. It was, indeed, perfect!

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March 19, 2006

O Cebreiro
In the morning since all was slick with sleet and snow I decided to follow an old logging road and not the trail. Higher and higher I climbed in the cold air; wet snow and heavy sleet blew across the route. I could hardly see. Soaked and freezing after 9 k at last I reached the tiny hamlet of O Cebreiro on the mountaintop, altitude 1300 m. The few dark structures appeared to be shut. Afraid of hypothermia I quickly changed into dry clothes sheltered by the church entrance porch.

This special place is associated with a medieval miracle when the sacramental wine and bread actually became blood and flesh. Within the dark granite Romanesque interior many small red candles were flickering; a few parishioners entered for Sunday mass. Overcome with emotion I sat in the back of the nave and silently gave thanks. Later after lunch in the original medieval pilgrim hostel, which today is a restaurant, I went to the new albergue run by the region of Galicia.

March 20, 2006

Triacastela

While searching for breakfast I met a woman whom I had seen the day before within the restaurant. We talked about the Camino. A retired Canadian nurse she was a member of the British Confraternity of St James, whose guidebooks I had used. Her past treks were extraordinary! During the 1980s she had walked alone to Jerusalem in three months from Italy!! Such a pilgrimage would be impossible today. Once when she was walking the Camino the priest here at O Cebreiro was seriously sick. She stayed and nursed him throughout his terminal illness. In gratitude his family has given her local property where she spends much of the year. After breakfast I visited his grave.

Pensively contemplating these Camino traditions, this unique mix of divine miracle and mundane chance, I slowly continued. The trail was descending; the high passes were finished. At Linares the contemporary sculpture of a pilgrim faces west towards the open horizon. The 21 k walk to Triacastela was cold, wet and windy; exhausted I ate a late lunch and stayed alone in a private albergue, which was cozy and warm.

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March 21, 2006

Sarria

The landscape had changed; lush green fields were divided by low stonewalls. Green hellebores bloomed along the route. Spring was really here!

After walking 17 k in the fog and rain I stopped in a private albergue in the center of Sarria. An historic townhouse it had been successfully renovated into well-appointed common spaces and dorms; the interior walls were attractively painted and the furnishings brand new. The welcoming hospitaleros cooked a delicious hot meal. I was very comfortable! Late in the afternoon an Australian couple arrived. She worked for an NGO in Indonesia and he was a free-lance photographer just back from Afghanistan. What fascinating adventures they had had!

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March 22, 2006

Portomarin

At breakfast the only open café was filled with pilgrims. I met a few from Britain who worked for the youth hostel association and an Italian lawyer from Turin. The lawyer and I hiked together 22 k to Portomarin. A light drizzle became continuous rain and the trail turned muddy, but the blooming camellia trees were beautiful. Everyone stopped at the private albergue; on two levels it had dorm space beneath a restaurant where we ate together. Getting all our outer clothes dry wasn’t easy.

March 23, 2006

Palas de Rei

A Spanish woman and I walked 24 k through heavy rain and very strong winds. Hiking was frightening as the branches snapped and the rain teemed; during one blast the rain cover on my knapsack blew away! We never did find it. Luckily my poncho could cover both the knapsack and me. In Palas de Rei the municipal albergue was crowded with soaking wet pilgrims and some very wet clothing as well as sleeping bags. Glad that heavy-duty plastic bags protected everything within my knapsack, I hated to imagine the discomfort of a wet sleeping bag! Several pilgrims ate together in a tiny restaurant nearby. Simple hot food tasted wonderful after the storm.

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March 24, 2006

Melide

Slightly depressed while walking alone in the unending drizzle near Cornixa where the Camino passed close to the highway I went into a roadside place for tea and toast. The excessive bill depressed me further! After 15 k I stopped at the municipal albergue in Melide. Since it seemed dark, chilly and damp, I gave the showers a miss. However, hearty pasta and friendly conversation shared in the albergue kitchen with the three English hostellers, Rob, Tony and Cath, cheered me up. Suddenly we realized that Santiago was only 50 k away. In less than 3 days we should reach it!

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March 25, 2006

Arzua

The English three and I set off together. To escape from the drizzle we ate a picnic lunch huddled in a bus shelter. Eventually the landscape changed to tall eucalyptus groves and patches of fern. The path through these woods seemed much easier. After 15 k we stopped in Arzua at the municipal albergue. A handsome old stone school it had been most attractively renovated. Our dorm had a cathedral ceiling, the wooden bunks were well designed and the new tiled showers had abundant hot water. Bliss! Although we were the first to arrive by night it was packed with pilgrims.

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March 26, 2006

Arca

We four walked about 19 k. For a few magical moments during the morning the sun actually shone! In the golden light the woods and trail looked enchanted. However by afternoon it was raining again with heavy winds. Outside the municipal albergue in Arca was parked the Belgian pushcart which I had first seen in Mansilla. The couple from Antwerp had been to Santiago; now they were starting their long trail back! After supper the Belgians, the three English and I nostalgically shared our memories. Recollecting some of the places visited and the people met each of us fondly remembered his Camino. As well I recalled how in 2004 after the first immediate euphoria of arrival in Santiago once off the trail I had soon felt sad and lost. Thus, now I hoped to continue walking to the coast; the English kids said that they might join me.

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March 27,28, 2006

Santiago de Compostela

Rob, Tony, Cath and I continued. Several times the Camino crossed the highway; the traffic steadily increased. At Lavacolla we passed the riverbank where medieval pilgrims bathed before entering the city. Today this is the site of the international airport; a jet roared overhead! At Monte del Gozo, the last hill from which earlier pilgrims glimpsed the cathedral, today there is a giant camping complex. Tempora mutatur! …After 20 k in soaking rain finally the historic city with its magnificent cathedral was reached! Santiago de Compostela at last! My emotions were spinning. At the office of the Dean we presented our paper Credentials; after reviewing all the varied stamps representing each day’s stop during our journeys we were issued the treasured Compostela. Overcome I cried…. Late in the afternoon when revisiting the cathedral I sat alone in the dim light for a long time lost in thought.

It is not easy to find inexpensive accommodation in center-city Santiago. At one pension the owner said that he had an available apartment nearby. We could use it for 15 euros per head per night. Upon arrival it was clean and spacious. We four chose our beds; surprisingly during the evening others turned up to further share the space! Next morning after a delicious breakfast in a chic but inexpensive cafe I returned to the cathedral. Following the tradition of countless pilgrims I hugged the central statue of St James, which is gilded and inlaid with precious gems. After descending into the crypt to stop at the splendid silver coffer, which enshrines his relics, it was time for the pilgrim mass. Since it was Lent this would be a simple ceremony. Perhaps 15 pilgrims attended; we all sat close to the new altar. In the nave were a few other worshipers. A solitary nun sang the service; her voice rose pure and clear. All was timeless and perfect.

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March 29, 2006

Negreira

After a hasty breakfast in the good café and a fond farewell view of the cathedral, Rob, Tony, Cath and I set out for Finisterre. We should reach it in four days hiking. Known as Fisterra in Galician, this extreme point on the Atlantic west coast of Spain was considered the end of the world until the time of Christopher Columbus. A pagan pre-Christian route as well as a medieval pilgrim route had led there in the past. As we began to leave the city as if on schedule rain began to fall! It never ceased. The route was a constant series of up and down; never steep, but tiring and very wet. At Ponte Maceira beneath the renaissance stone bridge the swift water of the Tambre river was white with rapids. Crossing was rather frightening. After 19 k we stopped at the municipal albergue in Negreira. It was great to get out of the wet. Two German guys were also there. After welcome hot showers and stringing lines across the dorm to hang up our soaking things, we cooked pasta for supper in the communal kitchen.

March 30, 2006

Vilaserio

During the night the wind howled and rain lashed the windows. In the morning the hospitalero, who lived next-door, suggested that we could stay the day and another night. However, we trekked on. All day the heavy rain was incessant; at times we walked through streaming water and not on a trail! It was a hard slog of 11 k to Vilaserio where an old school was under renovation for use as an albergue. New windows had been installed across the façade; they all leaked! On the interior were numerous puddles; it was damp and very cold! Cath slipped in water on the stairs, but thankfully was unhurt. On a portable burner Tony and Rob cooked something hot for us to eat. In order to sleep I wore all my dry clothes including a woolly hat!

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March 31, 2006

Olveiroa

At last the rain stopped! It was a long, tiring day; the trail meandered through many tiny stone hamlets but at least we were slowly drying out! After 21 k the four of us arrived at Olveiroa. The municipal albergue was great; a small group of stone farm building had been restored handsomely. Dorms and dining room were separate. Bright plaid blankets covered the bunks. The tiled bathrooms had hot water and good showers. Bliss! A handful of other pilgrims were there besides we four. All ate together in the common kitchen where the gracious hospitalero served steaming bowls of thick homemade soup, country bread, red wine and fruit. Delicious! How wonderful it was to be comfortable!

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April 1, 2006

Corcubion

Early without breakfast we started walking. Nearby a new footbridge crossed the Hospital River. Looking down into the cold water I was glad that it had been built! The river and nearby hamlet are named for a pilgrim hostel, which probably existed in the middle ages. Luckily one lonely bar was open; breakfast was sandwiches. The routes to Muxia and Finisterre divided. Our trail became a wide path, which slowly climbed and crossed the stony hills. Once on top in the far distance we could at last see the coast! Beneath gray clouds the Atlantic resembled silver. In all we hiked 21 k to Corcubion.

Once more it began to rain. Tony and Rob went to buy food while Cath and I went to a cash machine. For some reason my card did not work! Was this some crazy April Fools joke? Now I had no money left with which to eat or travel home! While I was wondering what to do Cath kindly offered to loan me the necessary funds. She and I then started to look for the albergue; unfortunately it was further west out of town, up a creek bed or two and along some very muddy lanes. Upon arrival we all were exhausted and soaking wet! Only one or two other pilgrims were there. The hospitalero made us supper.

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April 2, 2006

Finisterre

During the night from exhaustion, cold, wet or whatever Cath and I were both sick. I felt dreadful! Nevertheless it was only 8 k more. Since the rain had stopped we four went on.

The sun grew warmer and the air smelled salty. Along the way we had views of the last land, the end of the world! Walkers out for a simple Sunday stroll went past. Sand dunes and beach bordered the final stretch of the trail; fishing boats bobbed in the harbor. At last in Finisterre we stopped by the waterside antique cross and hugged each other! Eureka! I closed my eyes in silent thanks. All afternoon I sat by the sea deep in contemplation. …Much later when the albergue opened we obtained our certificates and Rob and I shared a final dish of pasta.

Waking up in the morning it was almost impossible to believe that this was, indeed, the end of the trail. After a rather jolly breakfast we four took a slow bus back to Santiago de Compostela. It felt wonderful to travel seated! Once back in town we walked to the railroad station, checked schedule times and suddenly had to say goodbye. We hugged, kissed each other’s cheeks and departed.

Alone on the train I wept....

Ultreia!

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2009-09-14T01:17:00.000-07:00

Camino 3 - 2007

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February 5, 2007

St Jean Pied de Port

Today I began my 3rd Camino with as usual mixed emotions of excitement and trepidation. Bill and I spent last night in our Paris apartment so that I could get to the TVG easily. My pack weighs 6.4 k without food. It was sad to say goodbye for the next 2 months. For a few hours on the train I felt "lost", but little by little I relaxed. Once I arrived at St Jean Pied de Port and climbed up to the rue de La Citadelle the magic of the Camino prevailed. Mme Jeannine as always was most kind. She cooked me a simple meal and turned up the heat in my tiny room. I was the only pilgrim.

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February 6, 2007

Valcarlos

During an early breakfast with Mme Jeanine and two young Spanish men who had arrived in the night, Gendarmes came to warn us not to cross the mountain by path. Conditions were too dangerous. Instead we should follow the lanes. Just after dawn I set off alone walking in a heavy mist. After crossing the old French/Spanish border by noon I reached Valcarlos. Here I stopped at the tiny municipal albergue. Unadvertised and without any sign you must ask for the key in the Mayor's office next to the drugstore. There was only a tiny space heater but plenty of hot water for a welcome shower. Drinking many cups of tea I spent hours reading the same study of English landscape history that I had begun during an earlier Camino! The book was in the same spot as before. Again I was the only pilgrim. Snuggling in my sleeping bag I went to sleep early in order to keep warm.

February 7, 2007

Roncevalles

Roncevalles by MM

Today I walked continually for 5 hours up the road to the famous monestery at Roncevalles. Here pilgrims have been welcomed since the 11th century. Today at times there was sleet; patches of snow covered the fields. It was very cold! As I arrived exhausted on foot at Roncevalles a tourist bus pulled up. Most of the fur clad passengers took my photo, a real pilgrim, through the bus windows! After eating a late Spanish lunch in one of the two inns I spent much of the afternoon visiting the splendid Romanesque church. It was wonderfully well heated! The small winter pilgrim albergue is also cozy. During the evening 4 Germans and 1 Norvegian arrived. We all shared introductions and hot drinks.

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February 8, 2007

Larrosoana

An exhausting day! Covered 26 k down from the mountains and crossed the river to Larrosoana. I ache all over! Walked with a young German guy named Gunter and woman named Nikola. Staying in a tiny municipal albergue with basically the same group of pilgrims as last night. No shops or resturant are available so we all pooled our rations for "dinner". I contributed cheese and sausage which tasted great with German black bread!

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February 9, 2007

Cizur Menor

Another long, hard slog to the pleasant private Albergue Roncal in Cizur Menor west of Pamplona. At least there was sunshine! Ate two big meals to make up for yesterday. Unfortunately my feet are swollen. Am I trying to go too far too quickly?

February 10, 2007

Obanos

Nikola and I walked off the Camino Frances on back roads and lanes to Obanos. We're staying in a b&b or Casa Rurale since the albergue is closed until spring. The weather was glorious with sun and clear blue sky. Unfortunately I had the "trots" in the middle of nowhere; what a mess! After a late lunch in a timeless, atmospheric cafe, Meson del Camino, in Eneriz we continued on the Camino Aragones towards the wonderful church at Eunate. Lost in the countryside this small, octagonal and Romanesque structure is a mythic place. The destinctive design may be based on the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem. Some year on a future Camino I must sleep at Eunate.

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February 11, 2007

Puente la Reina

This has been a nice easy day of repose. Nikola and "strolled" to Puente la Reina in the Sunday morning sunshine. We attended mass at the historic Church of the Crucifix and wandered about town. It is good to relax in the pleasant albergue run by the Padres Reparadores. There are a few other pilgrims, all guys. Together we shared the warmth from the open fireplace and conversation.

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February 12, 2007

Estella

We are exhausted. Thank goodness we took it easy yesterday because today was rough! Nikola and I walked 22 k up and down hills throuh rain and sun to get to Estella. On one slope near Eunea the mud was so thick and heavy that we had to pull each other up and along. We really needed all our strength! After a cold picnic facing the multi-lobed door of the Cirauqui church, we continued along an antique Roman route, lined with cypress trees and thankfully dry. We just ate dinner with a fellow pilgrim in a near-by bar. Now my feet hurt and I can hardly wait to sleep.

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February 13, 2007

Los Arcos

Another exhausting trek in brilliant sunshine to Los Arcos. I could hardly move when I arrived at the comfortable private albergue, Casa de Austria. I feel better now after hot tea and homemade muffins! Niki and I visited the wine bodega and the handsome monastery at Irache early this morning. After passing the closed municipal albergue in Villamayor de Monjardin where I happily stayed before, we walked a further 12 k across endless fields to here. 21 k total.

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February 14, 2007

Torres del Rio

Niki and I had an easy walk in lovely sunshine to Torres del Rio. We are staying in the same private albergue, Casa Maria, as I did in in 2004. It is a comfortable place with only one drawback. The showers and toilets, although modern and clean, are located outside off the open patio! Hence any night use will be a bit complicated. We had a nice lazy day with a long siesta after a couple of beers. An evening stroll finished our day.

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February 15, 2007

Logrono

Niki and I did 20 k in the sunshine to Logrono. We walked along highway 111 to avoid climbing through the infamous ravine named Mataburros or Burro Killer. My feet hurt enough! Just before Logrono we crossed the regional boundary out of Navarra into Rioja. This large municipal albergue is very pleasant; handsome Camino-themed art decorates the spaces and the staff are helpful and pleasant.

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February 16, 2007

Navarette

My legs hurt a log so I loosened my boots and decided to walk less each day for a bit. Unfortunately Niki is on a tighter timetable than I so she set off on her own. She is missed already! After slowly crossing urban Lograno I west proceeded through the huge recreational site and reservation nearby. Every city fireman/firewoman seemed to be out doing calesthenics and every senior taking a brisk walk as I slowly moved along. Eventually I stopped in Navarette. Since the municipal albergue was closed I stopped at the El Cantaro, a pleasant private one. My bunk was the same as last year, next to the radiator! No other pilgrims were there.

February 17, 2007

Ventosa

The sky was blue and the sunlight golden walking to Ventosa. Located slightly off the path I had always wanted to stay here, intrigued by the simple homemade sign. Arriving at the only bar in I drank a delicious thick hot chocolate; the real thing, not from a mix. When I went to pay a local had "covered it"! What a nice gesture. While waiting in the bar for the private albergue to open a German pilgrim joined me for lunch. We chatted about our journeys. He had just begun walking today and insisted on paying for lunch. Another gracious act ! (Perhaps I looked so exhausted that these men felt sorry for me!) We are the only pilgrims tonight at the albergue San Saturnio. This is a handsome renovation and very comfortable. I am so pleased to have stopped!

February 18, 2007

Najera

After Ventosa I plodded through cold rain and thick mud to Najera. My legs were better, but I had tummy problems. Twas ever thus! This is a large municipal albergue made from prefabricated units to hold 100 pilgrims; tonight there are only an older Spanish man and the hospitalero plus myself. After closing two years for restoration the impressive riverside monastery, Santa Maria la Real, now is reopened as a museum. It war begun in the 11th century and built from local red stone. Filled with dimly lit sculpture and tombs to me it seemed almost frightening to visit alone. What a relief to exit into daylight despite the rain!

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February 19, 2007

Santa Domingo de la Calzada

Today was a long cold slog, but without wet mud. After passing the historic cross at Azofra and crossing many hills eventually I arrived at Santa Domingo de la Calzada. The sky was vivid blue and the sun bright; deep snow covered mountains to the south on my left. At Ciruena lunch at a wayside bar was delicious, hot and cheap. A crowd of construction workers from a nearby site helped me order and then watched me eat! Now I am in the same parish-run albergue next to the cathedral as before. The 3 other pilgrims are very polite young Spanish men lugging huge backpacks. Each is carrying far too much and apparently feels it.

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February 20, 2007

Granon

After visiting the cathedral and hearing the famous chickens I walked an easy 6 k to Granon. This albergue within a tower of the church of San Juan Bautista is a remarkable stop. The door is always open with a sign which reads "Welcome pilgrim,make this your home".Each time I am here I want to stay forever! With the priest I climbed onto the roof to see the wide view. Tonight there are 3 other pilgrims and a French hospitalero. We shared a generous multicourse supper and sat talking together by the blazing fire as it rained outside. Just before bedtime all attended a prayer service in the church. The Romanesque baptismal font was gently lit while behind the altar the magnificent 16th century gilded retable was glowing. ... Truly memorable.

February 21, 2007

Belorado

Sad at leaving Granon I walked along the winding,frost covered path under a milky sun. Atop a hill a tall signpost marked the boundary of the next province, Burgos. After 15 k crossing several hills and walking parallel to the highway I arrived at Belorado. This riverside town seems roughedged like a western movie set. Early in the afternoon I stopped at a private albergue which has internet. After a shower and long siesta my legs feel better. Hopefully I am stronger.

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February 22, 2007

Villafranca Montes de Oca

Today was an easy 10k but with a cold wind to Villafranca Montes de Oca. After lunch at the local truck stop I went to the municipal albergue. Located in an old school, here too the door is always open. The local hospitalero comes by each evening. Choosing a bunk next to the radiator I remembered my adventures here during last year's heavy snowstorm (see Camino 2, February 25). A German pilgrim named Wilfried has just arrived. His backpack is huge, but apparently stuffed with food! He has kindly offered to cook supper for both of us.

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February 23, 2007

Ages

After a breakfast of strong tea and good dark German bread Wilfred and I climbed up over the mountain, about 16 k. At times the path was steep and the forest dense, but we made it. Crossing this area was highly feared in the past due to wolves and a sinister reputation. The lovely San Juan de Ortega monastery which dates from the 12th century was closed. How lucky I had been to visit and stay there in 2004 during my first Camino! The famous garlic soup served following evening mass was also memorable. (see Camino 1, October 18, 2004) Tired and cold Wilfrid and I continued to Ages and the recent albergue San Rafael. The hot food, hot showers and heated floors were great!

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February 24, 2007

Burgos

Walked 20k mainly along the highway into Burgos. Met an interesting German couple; a policeman and a young offender. The youth was offered the choice between serving time or walking the Camino. The policeman serves as his mentor. We are all staying in a small private albergue above a tiny church in the center. All the furnishings are from Ikea! After visiting the splendid cathedral I ate a good, but pricey, dinner alone. Slowly I am feeling better; hope it continues!

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February 25, 2007

Hornillos del Camino

Today I walked 20k to Hornillos del Camino. It was and is cold! Although tiring it was lovely to be alone up on the path crossing the hills. Only two other pilgrims here; an American guy who has walked all over and another German who has just begun. There is no restaurant open so he will share my food. I'll skip a shower and wear my knitted hat to bed. It is VERY cold without any heat.

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February 26, 2007

Castrojeriz

Following quick cups of cocoa in the bitterly cold kitchen the German and I set out. The landscape was frozen; all color reduced to gray, beige and palest green beneath a milky sky. A strong, icy wind blew from the west. After 10k crossing this bleak landscape we arrived at this tiny village, Hontanas. It was too early to stop at the municipal albergue. Nothing else was open, but the sun at last appeared. Slowly the path levelled becoming much easier. Another 10k and we arrived at Castrojeriz. He went to a hotel and I found a small private albergue which has just opened this morning. Back windows are stuffed with old newspapers, but the young Spanish guys who run it are thrilled to host their first pilgrim, me!

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February 27, 2007

Itero de la Vega

As usual during past Caminos I ate a delicious breakfast at La Taberna in Castrojeriz. It is a friendly place with great food. Next came the steep ascent up the Mostelares plateau. However, the gravel path is broad and the panorama from the top is superb! Alone with my thoughts I crossed the high pass. After 10k at Itero de la Vega I stopped at a private albergue on the east of town. This is a dormitory space within a simple inn. There are no other pilgrims. Took a long hot shower.

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February 28, 2007

Fromista

It rained during the night and the path was wet this morning. All will be flat for the next days. Now the province is Palencia. The 15 k walk to Fromista was easy and picturesque partly following the Canal de Castilla. Re-visted the wonderful Romanesque church. Staying in a clean, cheap, well-blanketed pension with good food. Bliss!

March 1, 2007

Carrion de los Condes

I felt better today. Did 20k across flat countryside to Carrion de los Condes. Only the constant wind from the west was a problem. Stopped at Villalcazar de Sirga on the way, but the Templar church, Santa Maria la Blanca, was closed. Here in C dl C the 13th c Convent of Santa Clara were I stayed before is being renovated. Wandering about this historic town is always rewarding. Tonight I am in the snug parish albergue with a few other pilgrims. Now that March has arrived more pilgrims should be traveling.

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March 2, 2007

Calzadilla de la Cueza

The 18 k to Calzadilla de la Cueza was bleak, flat and very windy. Much of the straight path follows an old Roman road which once linked Bordeaux and Astorga. After lunch in the local bar-restaurant, I relaxed alone in the municipal albergue. Niki sent an email; she has made it to Leon! At least thirty years younger than I, she can walk much faster than I. Ah, youth. ...A new group of Spanish pilgrims has just arrived in the dark. Hopefully some heat will also arrive soon. It is cold in here!

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March 3, 2007

Sahagun

Sahagun pilgrim statue by MM

Quite a day! Hiked 24 k against the wind to Sahagun. Had a delicious lunch at Casa Barrunta in the village of San Nicolas where I have stopped before. Then the "fun" began. From the highway which parallels the Camino a horn honked several times. One Spanish pilgrim from last night rushed across the road. She explained that a Portugese guy wearing camouflage was walking and a criminal. For my safety she offered a ride. I said thanks but I would continue to walk. Within 10 minutes I heard someone behind on the gravel path. Bingo! It was a young guy wearing pink and grey camouflage! We look at each other. I say "Hola!"; he grunts and passes. Arriving at the municipal albergue I try to explain the situation to the hospitalero. She gives me a key to lock myself in. The place is huge and I am alone. Time passes. While in the loo I hear heavy footsteps mounting the stairs. Nervously I investigate. Two big cops and two pilgrims with bikes have arrived! "Senora, we brought you some protection" said the cops. We all laughed and shook hands... Now to sleep!

March 4, 2007

El Burgo Ranero

Happily the rest of last night was uneventful! After we shared breakfast the bikers and I shook hands and parted. I walked 18 k to El Burgo Ranero which has many adobe structures. For a bit the weather was so warm that I removed my jacket. Bugs flew about and some dandelions were in bloom! Has spring arrived? The municipal albergue is crowded with a noisy group of French adults who constantly and loudly tell each other how uncomfortable they feel! Twas ever thus.

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March 5, 2007

Mansilla de las Mulas

Walked 18 k to Mansilla de las Mulas. On the western horizon lie the snow-topped mountains to come. In the crowded municipal albergue the friendly hospitalero remembered me from past Caminos. Many pilgrims are about; several of us shared a jolly common supper in the attractive kitchen. Yesterday's French are still grumbling! I need a shower but it is too cold; spring has not arrived after all.

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March 6,7, 2007

Leon

It was a long, cold 17 k slog in the rain to Leon. Also it was dangerous since the Camino crosses a very busy highway. Dashing amidst the traffic was nerve wracking! What a relief to get to this calm albergue run by the Santa Maria de Carvajal nuns. Since it is the "slow season" I am allowed to stay two nights.

After washing all my hiking clothes I wandered about town and revisited the magnificent Gothic cathedral. Within that vast dim mysterious interior the jewel-toned stained glass is glorious. I also visited the San Marcos Monastery which was built as a pilgrims' hospital in the 16th century. Covered in scallop shells this sumptuous riverside structure today is a super-deluxe parador. After viewing the unique cloister garden I treated myself to a thick hot chocolate. Delicious!

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March 8, 2007

San Martin del Camino

Rested after my day "off" today I did 24 k to San Martin del Camino where I'm in the private albergue Ana. All is under renovation but at least the roof is up! The electricity was off at the Villadrangos albergue so I had to come here. Two Spanish guys are only other pilgrims. Ate a good lunch at the usual hotel in Villadrangos. My face is very rosy from sunshine and wind! Feel happy and stronger.

March 9, 2007

Astorga

Did 26 k in brilliant sunshine to Astorga. Passed through Hospital de Orbigo where after my fall during Camino 1 I was helped by such kind, local "angels". Today I met a nice young German couple who had each searched on the Internet for a walking companion. He talked about going to Jerusalem some day. She was so surprised to learn that I am 67, that she took my photo! Perhaps the caption should read "Never stop trying"!Tonight I am staying the wonderful municipal albergue on the east of the city. It opened today and I am their first woman pilgrim! The exuberant hospitalero actually met me on the street and invited me in! Its a great renovation of an ex-convent. What comfort!

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March 10, 2007

Santa Catalina de Somoza

Astorga, Archbishop's palace by MM

Spent the morning sightseeing in Astorga. Visited the Archbishop's palace designed by Gaudi in his unique Art Nouveau style. Today it houses a museum for the Camino. Much use is made of 19th century stained glass and decorative clay tiles. Superb! ...I walked on towards the Maragato region and the mountains. Tried to stay in the nice private albergue in Murias de Rechivaldo but it was closed; the municipal one was a mess. While eating lunch I asked advice. The chef-patron knew a place in Santa Catalina de Somoza. Now I am here in a small private albergue above a bar. Clean, cheap, warm and friendly, its perfect!

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March 11, 2007

Rabanal del Camino

Today's weather was glorious, warm with a clear blue sky. Walked about 7 k alonq a dirt track to Rabanal del Camino. Slowly the path is climbing as it crosses the orange colored earth towards the mountains. I am in the crowded private albergue. All the other pilgrims seem to have tons of baggage. Perhaps they did not carry it, but used a service. Only one loo seems to be in service. But "mind over bladder" I shall continue to say and,hopefully, stay. Last year, however, diarrhea necessitated that I move to a small hotel for the comforting convenience of private facilities.

March 12, 2007

El Acebo

Wayside heart of stones by MM

Did a nice walk alone of about 16 k over the mountains to El Acebo. The views from the top at 1504 meters were splendid. Stopped for tea at a new private albergue in the ruined village of Foncebadon. They have done a great job of rebuilding. Perhaps some year I'll stay there. At the Cruz de Ferro I threw a stone from home onto the immense pile. As pilgrims have done for centuries I too gave thanks and then wept. ... Now I am in another private albergue above a pleasant restaurant. Talked with a few Polish pilgrims. Tired, but rightly so.

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March 13, 2007

Ponferrada

Walked 15 k down from the mountains in glorious sunshine. Since much of the descending trail is very steep and crosses rock, I followed the road until Molinasecca. There during my second breakfast another older solitary pilgrim "joined" me at table. He was Polish and extremely reticent. Although he seemed to understand both French and English we had no conversation. Now I am in the large municipal albergue in Ponferrada. About 15 pilgrims are here including the Pole. Many of the others who arrived by train are just starting their Caminos. When they learned that I have been walking more than a month alone in winter they were quite impressed!

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March 14, 2007

Villafranca del Bierzo

The sun was actually hot today. Removed my jacket while crossing the vineyards;perhaps Spring has arrived! Gently climbed 23k to Villafranca del Bierzo. Staying in the rather casual private albergue next to the small church of Santiago. During the Middle Ages pilgrims too ill to continue were granted absolution at the famous church door, the 'Puerta del Pardon'.Had a delicious dinner in a nearby new restaurant appropriately named the 'Puerta del Perdon' ; it was only 10 euros and superb! What a bargain!

March 15, 2007

Ruitelan

It was a long, tiring walk of 20k in hot sunshine to get to Ruitelan. This serene private albergue, Pequeno Portalo, has a Buddhist flavor. There are only 4 others pilgrims. Everything is very clean and Internet is available. By candlelight we shared a delicious copious dinner cooked by the helpful hospitalero. I ate a lot to have energy for the big climb tomorrow. Slightly nervous.

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March 16, 2007

Alto del Poio

A long, tiring day treking into the province of Galicia. Walked the old highway to Pedrafita and then up to the mythic O Cebreiro in fog and a cold rain. Cried as I said my thanks within the tiny, legendary church. It so special that I hated to leave. After a welcome hot lunch I continued since the municipal albergue is closed for renovation. Now I am in a room over a basic roadside bar at Alto del Poio. It is cold but there are piles of blankets. Very tired and in bed before 7pm!

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March 17, 2007

Triacastela

Walked 20k down to Triacastela in glorious weather. It was easy and the views towards the west were superb!I am staying in the same private albergue, Berco do Camino, as last year. It is warm, very clean and a great value! The owners also have a small bar-restaurant almost next door. Internet is free. Now after a good lunch and hot shower I can really relax!

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March 18, 2007

Samos

Mist and pale sun on the path this morning. Did an easy 9k to Samos. Ate a delicious lunch at the restaurant A Veiga on the western edge of town where I ate before. Now I am in the monastery albergue. Attended evening vespers. All the Benedictine monks wore black habits. Other full size images of monks were painted on the walls. In the dim light the atmosphere was surreal! There is no heat; there never has been any since construction in the 16th century! Angels are painted above on the dorm's vaulted ceiling. Since I am truly shivering with cold, their wings appear to be quivering! Now to try to sleep.

March 19, 2007

Sarria

Heavy rain as I walked 12k into Sarria. Arrived soaked at the handsome private albergue, O Durminento, where I also stayed last year. No other pilgrims seem to be here. The kind house-father cooked me a good late lunch. Washed all my clothes, took a hot shower and then had a long siesta in the heated dorm. True bliss, especially after last night!

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March 20, 2007

Portomarin

The weather today was crazy;sleet and rain mixed with periods of sun. Did about 22k to Portomarin. Crossing the high bridge over the reservoir to get here was nerve-wracking so I walked in the middle of the bridge! Staying in the renovated municipal albergue. Many other pilgrims but all men. Met a guy from Costa Rica wearing sandals in sleet and snow! Now his feet are a mess. I am tired, but relaxed and content.

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March 21, 2007

Palas de Rei

Did 24k down to Palas de Rei. Much of the path paralleled the highway. The vegetation has changed; now there is Spanish broom and heather. Also passed many 'horreos' or raised corn-cribs typical of Galicia. Went to the municipal albergue in the center of town, but I didn't stay. It was just too crowded with burping men! Now I am next door in the luxury of a tiny private room over a bar. Starting to plan the rest of my journey.

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March 22, 2007

Melide

Walked with a Swedish pilgrim who has just begun. Hence, he is carrying too much and seems very nervous. One of the most important 'rules' of the Camino is to relax and 'let it be'. We stopped for a welcome second breakfast at the casa rurale Los Somozas in Coto. It is always very friendly towards pilgrims. Walked about 28k, but the way seemed easy. At Melide we shared a delicious lunch of polpo or octopus, the local specialty. Tonight the municipal albergue is cold so I will skip a shower.

March 23, 2007

Arzua

Did an easy 14 k walk through eucalyptus woods to Arzua. Saw many primroses and violets blooming. Spring has truly arrived! Staying in the comfortable municipal albergue as usual. It is such a successful renovation of an old school: lots of old stone is handsomely combined with new slate. There are many pilgrims including an older Swiss guy who keeps muttering to himself.

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March 24, 2007

Sobrado dos Monxes

Quite a day! Walked 22k on the North Camino to Sobrado dos Monxes. Am staying at the albergue within the Cistercian monastery. This complex is a Baroque masterpiece, but my dorm is a actually a renovated stable; no other pilgrims are here and it is freezing! Earlier I wandered through the other structures in awe. Attended Vespers with one other 'outsider'. The service was held in a splendid circular contemporary space. All was either painted white or natural wood and lit by thick candles. The monks wore their white robes and responded in unison. It was truly timeless and memorable.

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March 25, 2007

Arzua

Sunny weather after a cold night at the monastery. Retraced my route to return to Arzua. Had a good lunch at the bar nearby where I usually go. Tonight the albergue is crowded with Spanish cyclists.

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March 26, 2007

Arca

Dense fog this morning so it was difficult to see the trail. However the 18k to Arca were easy, passing through woods of eucalyptus and fern. Had a good pilgrim lunch at the O Pino restaurant where I ate on past trips. Staying in the rather bleak municipal albergue; it is crowded. No heat so no shower for me. Hard to imagine that tomorrow I will arrive in Santiago!

March 27,28, 2007

Santiago de Compostela

Santiago de Compostela after 7 weeks walking!! Visited the pilgrims' office and cried as I received my third precious certificate. Staying in the Libredon Barbrantes hostal in a tiny attic room. It is so close to the cathedral that I can see the towers from my ceiling window as well as hear the great bells chime. Perfect! Nearby is the wonderful Cafe Casino where I always eat. After a shower I went to the cathedral to give thanks and sat silently in the dim interior for a long time...Today at noon I attended the Pilgrim Mass. It was beautifully sung by the same nun as last year. Since this is Lent it was an 'austere' service without any choir or swinging of the famous Botafumeiro censier. Again at twilight I returned to sit alone in the nave at peace.

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March 29, 2007

Negreira

Left Santiago in the rain and without breakfast which a mistake. Started walking towards Finisterre on the Atlantic coast. At times the trail was muddy and steep, but I made it. Now after 19k I am in Negreira at the pleasant municipal albergue. There are about 20 other pilgrims. All seem surprised at my age and determination. Wet ponchos and clothes are dripping all over. One guy from Holland made soup for everyone. Going to bed early because tomorrow will be hard.

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March 30, 2007

Olveiroa

An unbelievable day! Walked 33k in rain to get to Olveiroa! One of the hardest days ever on any of my Caminos; almost as exhausting as the first time up to Roncevalles!! This municipal albergue is a very successful renovation of stone farm buildings. Many pilgrims are here; we all shared a common supper cooked by the kind hospitalero. She remembered me from last year. Now to sleep.

March 31, 2007

Corcubion

Pleasant walk of 21k across stoney hills and burnt moors to get to Corcubion. We are the same group of pilgrims as last night and again we shared a common supper. Thank goodness the weather was dry although windy. From atop the last hill far in the distance I glimpsed the silver sea. Magic.

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April 1, 2007

Finisterre

Trail's end! In hazy sunshine I walked alone the last 8k along the shore to Finisterre. Went out to the lighthouse at 'the edge of the world'. On the great barren rocks by the boot sculpture I sat in the wind watching the sea, silently gave thanks and wept.

As always I loved the journey...

Ultreia!

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2009-09-13T11:57:00.000-07:00

Camino 4 - 2008

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January 15, 2008

The Night Before

Bill and I are spending the night in Paris before he drops me at the train station and I take off for my 4th Camino, from St Jean Pied de Port on the Spanish border, to the Atlantic coast of Spain, 1000 kilometers to the west, passing through St Jacques de Compostella.

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Here are photos Bill took at the Montparnasse station very early Wednesday morning.

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January 16, 17, 18, 2008

St Jean Pied de Port, Valcarlos, and Roncevalles

Doorway to Adventure!

Madame Jeannine

Roncevalles after a difficult hike up in the rain. All is cosy now.

Met 2 nice men on the little train to St Jean Pied de Port, one is French and 61 the other Italian and 51. We have already become a family. Madame Jeannine liked her photos from last year and was as generous as ever making us dinner and breakfast. What a women!

These guys are not very trail wise so I have become "mom" showing the ropes and how to find places on the trail. Last night we stayed in the little albergue in Valcarlos situated between the public lavatories. All was fine but no hot plate so I made tomato soup for us all with my heating coil.

Tonight we are in the monastery dormitory rigged out for winter. All is fine. We will attend mass and the pilgrim blessing at 8pm and then eat a pilgrim dinner at 8:30. I feel fine but am tired tonight. However I should feel tired after that climb of 4 hours today. I will write more from Pamplona as there are too many people who want to use the computer now.

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January 19, 2008

Zubiri

After Roncevales we, ie me and the French guy called Polo, and the Italian, named Mario began our descent. It was very tiring with lots of slippery mud. These guys had too much stuff in their packs which made everything very tiring and difficult. One kilo of pack weight per 10 kilos of body weight is a good rule of thumb. Hard to do though.

Along the way we met a couple who live in Canada and are from Venezuela. She thought I spoke very good English which, being American, I found very funny. The albergue in Larrosana was closed so Paulo and I, plus a new young Spanish couple, stopped in a cheap and agreeable Casa Rural in Zubiri. Only 14 euros apiece including a most useful washing machine.

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January 20, 21, 2008

Trinidad de Arre and Cizur Menor

Monastery Garden

Yesterday, Sunday, we split apart and Polo and I continued slowly to the most pleasant monastery at Trinidad de Arre where I had stayed on my first Camino in 2004. We were the only pilgrims.

Today it was an easy walk on the sidewalks of Pamplona to here, the private albergue in Cizor Menor. Not too much heat however and a cold shower. Glorious sunshine. At last I feel back on track and my body feels balanced. Frankly the French guy would never be able to manage without me. As I write he is sending a huge pile of unneeded stuff back home.

Tomorrow I plan to cut across the back country to the wonderful circular chapel at Eunate. If my guts hold out I hope to sleep there. However one never knows what may occur. It should be a walk of about 25 k but across relatively flat farmland. I will try to write from Puente la Reina in a few days.

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January 22, 23, 2008

Eunate and Puente La Reine

I am now in Puente La Reine, weather is sunny but cold.

Since I wrote last I spent a long day walking downhill across the back roads and not across the Mountain of Pardon to the exquisite circular church at Eunate.

Eunate

Polo and I spent an unforgettable night in the little albergue with Jean, the French hospitalero. The copious food he served us was wonderful.

Jean and his table

After dinner we visited the church by candlelight and held an almost silent prayer service. All was truly beyond this world. Slept on mattresses on the floor.

Now in Puente there are a few more male pilgrims. Have had one ghastly bout of tourista but took some pills and now feel better. There is nothing worse that diarrhea on the trail first thing in the cold morning air.

By the way, Polo, my walking companion might be described as a contemporary Jean Valjean from Les Miserables. He has done it all including sleeping in his car for 6 months. However, he could not be here without a shepherd . So I am busily teaching him the ropes, and history.

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January 24, 25, 26, 2008

Estella, Los Arcos and Torres del Rio

Torres del Rio

Am in Torres del Rio with a nice circular church based on the Holy Sepulcher in Jerusalem. Easy short walk today across orange earth and vineyards under cloud cover. Yesterday was a beautiful 22k from Estella to Los Arcos. Giant cliffs and eventually mountains on the north under a cobalt sky and a golden light. Very beautiful.

Unfortunately the albergue that I expected to stay in was closed and the only place open was a true dump. Got very depressed but was better after a hot shower and a good meal in a truck stop.

Tonight two sweaty adult Spanish men have joined Polo and me. The Spanish speak French and are charming. We all are washing clothes together in the machine. The only problem with this place is that the toilets are on the outside patio. Needless to say I hope that I do not get the trots.

I feel better and better each day. Hopefully all will stay that way for the next 7 weeks. Everyone find my name Marguerite a riot. Since they remember the famous cow of that name wearing a floppy straw hat, with cutouts for its ears, dragged along by Fernandel in old French movies. I must get a straw hat. Not sure about the cutouts though.

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January 27, 2008

Logrono

We are in Logrono after a 20km walk mostly down under a hazy blue sky and golden sun. Actually took off my jacket for a while. Now I am very tired. Saw Pussywillows so spring appears to be around the corner here. However, there may be snow at Granon in a few days. The sweaty Spanish are still with us and a young Lithuanian guy has joined the team.

The putside of the Logrono church has a large sculpture of Santiago Matamoros, or St James killing the Moors at the Battle of Clavio near here. I know, not very politically correct but it was a long time ago.

I have just discovered a wonderful Spanish chocolate bar for cooking that gives me great energy when I need it.

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January 28,29,30,31, 2008

Najera, Santo Domingo de la Calzada, Granon, and Belorado

I am now in Belorado and will bring you up to date on the last three days. In Logrono I stayed at the nice municipal albergue which had wonderful dark blue polaire (fleece) blankets. We three, Polo, a Lithuanian guy named Edmund, and I ate dinner together in a local place and were joined in the albergue by the sweaty Spanish men from the night before and a German girl who got in without a albergue pass but said that she would buy one the next day. So much for winter standards. However she was cute so the house father took pity on her.

On Monday Polo and I walked across the red earth and vineyards of Rioja to Ventosa where I stayed last year in a great private albergue. Passing by Navarette I passed the ruins of the medieval pilgims hostel and on the far side of the hilltop town the doorway from the hostel is now the entrance to the cemetery. Nearby is a recent memorial to a Belgian pilgrim killed on the road.

Pilgrim Memorial

Unfortunately the Ventosa albergue was closed so we continued on to Najera. At the municipal albergue which holds 100 we three were the only pilgrims. Polo cooked a good hot dinner for us. On Tuesday the early morning light was golden, the sky pale blue and in the southern distance snow covered the peaks. We slowly climbed across the countryside to Santo Domingo de la Calzada. Upon arrival at the parish albergue there was a sign on the door to telephone a number in order to stay. Since my spoken Spanish is nil I went to the ticket office on the other side of the church to ask if they could call the number.

Raised eyebrows and cold icy stares were my reward. Finally the woman did call and we could stay. Talk about being on the right or left hand of God. Wednesday morning the albergue was truly freezing, I got up very early to visit the church and hear the famous chickens crow.

Then it was a short walk to the wonderful albergue in the church at Granon. As always the welcome was most gracious. Besides Polo and myself, there were a two Swiss guys and a young Canadian couple as pilgrims. The house father was a young Spanish guy, polyglot in several languages. His girlfriend was Latvian. Quite a mix. They cooked us a wonderful supper. What a treat it was to sit by the blazing fire and be warm.

Granon

As always the ambiance was perfect and we all realized it. Now the Canadians, Polo and I are in a private albergue in Belorado with a bunch of noisy and clannish Brazilians. We are all waiting for a common dinner.

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February 1,2, 2008

Villafranca Montes de Oca and Ages

After Belorado Polo, the Canadians and I walked along the quiet and flat Camino towards Villafranca Montes de Oca. The Canadians continued and we stayed in the old schoolhouse renovated as an albergue. It was cold in the night but with many blankets. However the heat stopped at 10 pm.

Polo in the snow

Next day Polo and I set out in a light snow which became heavier as the hills were climbed. This is the same area where in 2006 I met the Guardia Civile in the heavy snow. Yesterday the snow was enchanting, right out of the back wall of the Narnia wardrobe. I kept looking for my faun.

After passing the newly restored but now locked monestery of San Juan Ortega we eventually came to Ages. There we stayed in an enchanting place called the house of the snail. Made of colombage, or in English, half timbering, it was run by a Spanish woman named Peace. She made us a soup supper as well as breakfast this morning. The actual owner is a Norwegian woman who is presently an NGO in Sudan and will be in Zimbabwe within the next 2 months for a year.

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February 3,4, 2008

Burgos

After a long walk down to Burgos and across the drenched city we are the only two pilgrims tonight with the housefather in the municipal albergue which is set in a park in the far western edge of the city. This place is made of 3 connected and heated new log cabins. With the rain pouring down it seems very cozy. And now for a shower and to sleep.

We are spending a day of rest here in Burgos. Revisited the cathedral this morning and took many photos. Can hardly wait to hear how Super Tuesday works out. Tonight in the same chalet albergue where we are staying for free there are new pilgrims. A guy from Antwerp and a couple from Korea who only speak Korean and stare constantly.

Burgos Friends

The highlight of my day was meeting a charming French speaking hospitalero who arrived at the albergue this morning and re-discovered us in the cathedral later. She took us to visit a wonderful restored 15th century house now used as a bank. When it was a house it hosted Christopher Columbus no less. What a world. This will be my last shower for a few days, not to say last food store and, of course, last Internet. Next comes the high dry hills known as the Mesquita.

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February 5,6, 2008

Hornillos de Camino and Castrojerez

We are now in the municipal albergue in Castrojerez. Quite comfortable and good showers. Another pilgrim, Spanish, is here. He has walked to Jerusalem and worked for several years as a hospitalero in Santiago. Interesting guy with all kinds of Camino tales. Some good some terrifying.

The walk this morning was 20 k in a low fog across beige hills with nothing in sight. The via of vida is the proper expression, the way of emptiness. Yesterday was another story. We left Burgos early and walked up the hills to finally arrive at Hornillos de Camino. This is a miniscule town in the middle of the Camino. No shops. Albergue closed.

Had to wait 2 hours outdoors for the hospitalero to arrive and open the door. He was a doctor on vacation and called to am emergency case a few hills away. The place is undergoing renovation and the heating which was only installed 4 days ago is great. Last year it was freezing.

I am looking forward to a good dinner tonight in a nearby tavern with a Brazilian connection where I have often eaten over the years. They have a big picture of the author Paulo Coelo standing with the owner next to the door. The owner, always the diplomat, said he remembered me from last year.

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February 7,8, 2008

Itero de Vega and Poblacion de Campos

I am really in the deep country at Poblacion de Campos after crossing a high plateau for 2 days. Polo and I are the only ones in a small albergue. I am writing this in the only bar in the village. No other pilgrims in sight.

The sky was a clear blue this morning and although there were spots of ice on the ground you could see the pale green of what I believe to be winter wheat starting to grow. By lunch we were at Fromista where I took photos of the handsome church and we ate in a tiny pension. A bargain pilgrim lunch of pasta followed by salmon and homemade flan for desert. The total bill for each meal was 10 euros. Not bad.

Yesterday we climbed up to a high plateau from Castrojeriz and continued across empty fields to Itero de Vega. There we stayed in a pilgrim room within a simple hotel, It was only 6 euros and not bad at all. The food ,however, was nothing to rave over.

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February 9, 2008

Carrion de Los Condes

We are in a very Catholic convent. All the other pilgrims are men. Walked only 12 km today under a very hot sun. Actually removed my jacket.

Villalcazar de Sirga

On the way Polo and I stopped at the Templers church at Villalcazar de Sirga. We also ate a wonderful lunch at an unforgettable restaurant called El Meson des Templiers. It has truly existed for centuries. Filled with antiques it appeared to be only a la carte and quite expensive. However, we sat four steps lower that the majority of the diners, ie. truly below the salt, and ate a copious and delicious pilgrim menu for 11 euros.

After that it was another 6 km to here. Last night was spent in a tiny and very cold albergue in Poblacion de Campos. We partially remodeled the place to keep warm putting up mattresses as temporary doors to block out the code and keep in the heat from one very small heater. By the way, the inner soles have really made a huge difference in the comfort of my hiking boots. Every night I take them out to air and dry.

While walking I have come to the following guide lines for the Camino. You must consider the topography, the weather, your health, your pack, strength in difficulty as well as endurance. Will try to write more tomorrow.

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February 10, 2008

Calzadilla de la Cueza.

After a day of walking along an old Roman route we have arrived in Calzadilla de la Cueza. The hospitalero is a nice Italian guy who speaks English and will make us dinner since the on restaurant in town is closed until the season.

A new pilgrim has joined the troop. Named Tom he is from Cologne and speaks English. He only began 4 days ago in Burgos and has huge blisters. Like most first timers he thought that the daily distances cited in the guidebooks were sacred and tried to do 40 km his first day. Now he can hardly move.

I must be one of the very few pilgrims who starts slow and very easy for the first week.

ps...Apparently someone has posted a reference to this blog, appropriately called "Winter Pilgrim" on another site. When we checked the SiteMeter at the bottom of my blog it appears that nearly half the viewers were referred from the site called "All about the Pilgrimage to Santiago". It is run by the British Confraternity of St James. In the several weeks my blog has been running it is already getting half as many hits as our own B&B web site gets after 8 years! That shows how much interest there is about the Pilgrimage.

Please do leave comments when you pass by here. The exchange of views is in the spirit of the Camino, and I appreciate it.

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February 11,12,13, 2008

Sahagun, El Burgo Raneros, and Mansilla de las Mulas

Now we are four after having picked up a Brasilian guy a few days ago. Tonight we are all in Mansilla de las Mulas. I think that I last wrote before Sahagun. Well, we eventually arrived there after walking in just shirts and sweating like mad under a hot sun in a deep blue sky.

Pollo and I ate in a nice little restaurant that I know in San Nicolas on the way. Great food, old interesting junk on the walls and, for some unknown reason, photos of Indochina 50 years ago.

At the albergue in Sahagun the hospitalero was Russian, wore an parka with fur collar and gloves indoors. Not very reassuring for the warmth of the dorm. However it was fine. It was 6 men and me. Including a new young German guy and a Brasilian, all of whom are still with us.

Next day we all continued to El Burgo Ranero. The normal albergue was closed but I found a private one for us all to stay in. If it were up to the guys we would still be standing on the street. None of them seem to be able to ask a question or interact with the Spanish. I just barge right in.

By midnight the private albergue was almost full with a group of young Aussies whose feet stank unfortunately. Also the so-called door to the loo and showers was wooden beads which made a tremendous noise when anyone passed in the night.

Tonight we four are all together with a nice Japanese guy. When I checked in here the hospitalero remembered me from last year. It is now cold and will get colder for the mountains come after Leon which is our next stop.

Nevertheless I am toasty in my sleeping bag and wonderful, almost never removed athletic T shirt.

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February 14,15, 2008

Leon and Villadangos del Paramo

Two Pilgrims in Leon

From Mansulla de las Mulas we walked about 20 km yesterday to Leon. It was cold and I felt dreadful. Stayed in the warm and very comforting convent near the cathedral. Did nil but take a hot shower and wash my clothes in a proper washer-dryer and take a long siesta. All the other pilgrims were men except for a very grouchy German woman. She must have been from old East Germany for she never smiled. Luckily we seem to have lost her.

Today I felt fine. After quickly revisiting he cathedral this morning Polo and I walked about 21 km to Villadangos del Paramo. The albergue was locked but I went to the local restaurant and got someone to get the key for me. We are alone here without heat but with a free internet. It is fine but freezing. Each of us made a private tent to sleep using using all the blankets available. Later dinner will be in the local restaurant. Since it is cold I am debating about the shower. Tomorrow it is on through Hospital d'Orbigo and eventually the real mountains.

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February 16,17, 2008

Astorga and Santa Catalina de Samozo

Next it was onto Astorga which is a wonderful small city high on a hill with a Roman heritage, great cathedral and archbishop's palace by Gaudi. It was a 26 km slog to get there crossing higher and higher hills. We were walking with some Swiss guys with very bad blisters.

Somehow Polo and I lost each other in dense woods. Since we usually walk Indian fashion and not together, thank goodness, I assumed that he was way ahead of me. He got lost and ended up hitching to the Astorga albergue. I arrived exhausted on foot. The charming hospitalero remembered me from last year when I was the second pilgrim and the first woman to ever stay in the remodeled convent which is the municipal albergue. It was warm with great showers and I had a room to myself which was a GREAT treat.

Today we walked 10 km or so towards the mountains and are staying in a bar with albergue above in a tiny, stone village called Santa Catalina de Samozo. Tomorrow we start the real climb up towards the high peaks. All goes well.

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February 18,19, 2008

Rabanal del Camino and El Acebo

El Acebo

We are now in El Acebo, high in the mountains. Yesterday we walked to Rabanal del Camino where the woman that owns the only albergue open at this time of year recognized me.

Today we crossed very atmospheric mountains in dense fog with a slight rain. At times there was snow on the ground. I tossed my stone from our garden at home onto the immense pile at the foot of the famous Cruz der Fero or Cross of Iron. As usual I said my thanks for being able to walk and, as well, for our life together in France.

Polo and I stopped for a second breakfast on the way at a charming small albergue in Foncebadon which has recently been restored. Three years ago on Camino 2 it was a ruined stone house, now it is remade with, of all things, fittings from Ikea. Small world.

This is another charming mountain town with a welcome albergue connected to the only open bar-restaurant. There are 7 pilgrims here. Two non-communicative older Spanish women, one guy from Nantes, one guy from Brussels, another from Italy and Polo and myself. We had a very good lunch upon arrival at 4 pm, drenched from the weather and tired after crossing the mountain walking on many small stones.

Tomorrow it is on to Ponferrada. Another plus here is that the Internet is free if you sit at the bar. Hence I am typing while drinking a Coke.

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February 20,21,22, 2008

Ponferrada, Villafranca del Bizero, and Ruitelan

Villafranca del Biezeo

My legs are still holding up. Met a nice young Spanish couple who are hiking only from Leon to Santiago. Yesterday was a long, hot day in brilliant sunshine. We covered 27 km to Villafranca del Bizero. Saw some flowers beginning to bloom including almond trees and camellias. We stayed in the atmospheric private albergue which has tidied up a bit since last year. There are now hot showers from thermal heating on the roof. The basic tone of the place is better than before. Polo and I ate dinner at a restaurant I found last year called the Puerto del Pardon after the name for the church door. We had a truly delicious dinner for 10 euros each including wonderful wine.

During the middle ages pilgrims who arrived at the church door and were too ill to continue were given the same indulgences as those valid pilgrims who made it all the wall to Santiago. Today we have done another 17 km slowly climbing up the mountain valley towards O Cebreiro where we should be tomorrow. Tonight we are the only pilgrims in the Buddhist albergue in Ruitelan. I am looking forward to dinner cooked by the hospitalero and bed. Tomorrow will be long and difficult.

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February 23,24, 2008

O Cebreiro and Tricastela

O Cebreiro

Yesterday we climbed up about 15 km on the old road to O Cebreiro. The sun was shining but the wind was cold. As usual I found the arrival there overwhelming. The little church is kept spotless. I sat for a while alone and offered my thanks.

Polo and I plus a handful of noisy Spanish guys and 2 young German girls spent the night in the recently refurbished albergue. It was very comfortable and now looks great. At 3 euros for a bed with good heat and great new showers it was a true bargain. We ate a very good dinner in the local restaurant. Last night and today it rained.

We have crossed the last high peak and are now on our slow way down into Galicia. Tiny daffodils and early violets were blooming on the descending path. The topography has changed and now the fields are rolling, crossed by low stone walls. It is very beautiful as landscape.

Tonight Polo and I are staying in the same private albergue that I have used for the last 2 caminos in Tricastellla. We are the only pilgrims so far. We each have an individual room, the water is hot and the baths spotless. Plus there is free internet. A first class bargain for 7 euros each. Tomorrow it is on to Sarria.

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February 25, 2008

east of Sarria

We walked about 15 km today across rolling verdant countryside. Easy ups and downs but Polo's knees gave out.

east of Sarria

Here we are in a wonderful, new private albergue at 10 euros per bed just east of Sarria. It is truly a find and was not opened when I last walked past. The name is PALOMA Y LENA; their website WWW.PALOMAYLENA.COM. We are the only pilgrims. The owners who speak many languages are rightly proud of this place. Each dorm of 4 beds has its own bathroom. The common spaces are very handsome and all is well fitted out with Ikea furniture.

In their scrapbook of the construction there is even a page showing the opening of the multitude of Ikea boxes. The scrapbook itself is composed of individual photos printed together to form large page size prints. A large open porch screens the front of the one storey building and would provide welcome summer shade. At the moment I hope that the heat works during the night. Within a week we should be in Santiago if all goes ok.

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February 26,27,28, 2008

Ferreios, Portomarin and Palas del Rei

After Sarria Polo and I walked on in fog and rain to Ferreios where we stayed in a tiny provincial albergue with a Swiss guy who had worked in the US for 10 years. His name is Peter and he is now walking with us. Unfortunately his pack is so big that he carries extra stuff in two shopping bags. Needless to write that everyone jokes he will arrive in Santiago with very long arms.

We should all arrive in Santiago early Monday afternoon if all goes well. Two days ago we stayed in a very crowded renovated albegue at Portomarin. It was crowded because the rain was torrential and everyone came in out of the storm. We were about 30 including a German pilgrim walking for the 12th time at 74. There is more hope for me yet. In fact I think that he was rather peeved that I was a woman and catching up with him in age.

Met some nice Japanese guys who just finished their medical degrees and were doing the camino complete with Japanese guidebooks before they start their residency in a Tokyo hospital. They almost passed out when they heard my age. Last night Peter, Polo and I stayed in a very nice new albergue recently opened on the edge of sports ground entering Palas del Rei. There was also a good restaurant nearby for our pilgrim dinner.

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February 29, 2008

Melide

Today we have crossed the fields and entered into the final province of La Coruna. We are now in a rather tired albergue which needs refurbishing in Melide. It is only 51 km from here to Santiago, but we will need 3 days to cross easily the final hills.

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March 1,2, 2008

Arzua and Arca

We are now on the outskirts of Santiago at Arca. Tomorrow we shall be there! As usual I have mixed reactions. Last night we spent in Arzua in a very nicely restored albergue remade from an old building.

Almost There

There were only 7 of us including a new woman from Finland and young woman from Cameroon with her Spanish boyfriend. Both she and he are doctors but they had nothing to fix their own blisters. Twas ever thus. Tonight everyone is sad that tomorrow is the end.

I plan to spend two days in Santiago and then hopefully walk on to Finesterra on the Atlantic coast.

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March 3,4, 2008

Santiago de Compostela

As the Americans said in 1917, Lafayette, we are here! Polo, Peter, Rita and I walked into Santiago yesterday morning. We were all tired and deeply moved. At the Pilgrim's office in the Archbishop's palace I received my 4th Certificate with great emotion.

Then we found rooms near the cathedral. I stayed in the same little single room next to the church for 27 euros. with the luxury of a PRIVATE BATH, it is a great find. In the night the bells toll the time. I showed everyone the good little pastry shop- restaurant where I always go. We had a delicious meal for about 11 euros each.

Santiago de Compostela

After a fast evening visit to the cathedral to give my thanks and hug the stature of Santiago I fell into bed exhausted. This morning we all attended the noon Pilgrim mass. About 20 or so pilgrims were there. As usual the service was sung by a nun. The places from which we had begun our walks were read.

It is hard to imagine that the Camino is ending and soon we will go our separate ways. Whatever one believes, however one sees this world, it is impossible not to be touched and moved in this city and at this place. As the priests said this morning for centuries and centuries the pilgrims have been coming and shall continue to come.

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March 5,6,7, 2008

Negreira, Olveiroa and San Roque near Corcubion

After saying goodbye to Polo at the morning train I slowly walked alone through the suburbs and eventual countryside 23 km to Negreira. There were only 3 other pilgrims in the albergue. All were men - one Polish, one Spanish and one Irish. We were all aiming for Finisterra.

The weather the next day was glorious with a clear blue sky and fresh wind. However the camino was a long 33 km across hill and dale. We were all exhausted from the trek. At the Olveiroa albergue I went to bed at 7 pm even before the sun went down.

Next day in good sun under a bright blue sky I crossed the barren hills to Corcubion. Leaving the albergue in a dense fog the clouds eventually opened and from the hill tops I could glimpse the sea and in the far distance Finisterra. I can imagine the excitement of medieval pilgrims when they saw the sea for the first time. After 23 km I stopped at the pleasant hilltop albergue at San Roque near Corcubion. The Polish pilgrim and I were the only ones. The hospitalero made us dinner and we all went to sleep early.

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March 8, 2008

Finisterre

Ultreia!

I walked across the beaches towards Finisterre, where the world was thought to end before Columbus. Crying as I walked at last I reached the westernmost lighthouse in Europe and the now famous Camino marker of kilometer 0.

Overcome with emotion I continued to the rocks behind the light and watched the horizon. The sea was the color of pewter and the clouds above dove gray. Only the faintest line separated the two. I sat for a long time, gave my thanks and then slowly walked backed to the albergue....

Ultreia, my camino was over.

I like to think of all pilgrims as parts of continuous ribbon stretching back into the middle ages. Some of us are visible, but most are not. However in our minds and hearts we all have been changed by the journey. Long may such impressions last!...

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...... Other bloggers noted in Comments

Nikola wrote...Meredith, my thoughts are with you every day. I'll check your blog as often as I can. Good luck and "Buen Camino". Your 2007 Camino-friend Niki January 16, 2008

Sally & Terry said...Looking forward to reading this day by day. think you are very brave to do this trip - brave or nuts -,not sure which.Have fun! Sally January 16, 2008

Dorothy wrote...Off you go, and godspeed! It sounds like you are off to a great start, and judging by what you taught me years ago (divide by 10 and multiply by 6), you have about 600 miles of adventure ahead of you! I will stay with you throughout the journey and will look forward to your postings. January 18, 2008

Luk said...Your blog reads like a novel, but in this case we know the writer so that makes it even more special! January 28, 2008

Dex wrote ...Hope you'll gain great insights and beautiful feelings along this trip and we hope to greet you soon in France again. January 31, 2008

Kiwi Nomad said...Greetings from another Margaret! I am reading your account with great interest. I plan to start walking some of the Camino from Le Puy mid-Apr I hope the weather is kind to you as you continue, and I look forward to reading more.Thanks for blogging.... am very much enjoying reading about it all.I leave New Zealand in a little over a month to begin my first Camino in Le Puy. February 1, 2008

Sheri said...We have been following your pilgrimage from Day 1. You are such an inspiration for us all. We will continue to follow your journey and stay in touch.Your blog is amazing! We think of you often and wish we were there with you. Keep on trekking February 2, 2008

Dorothy said...Happy Valentine's Day. From reading of your trek, it seems as if you go no matter what the weather, and after suffering 20 hrs of torrential rain here on the East Coast of USA, I can admire your efforts, but know I would not fare well in your place. I see you have tucked away the words of Christopher Robin - "You're braver than you believe, and stronger than you seem, and smarter than you think" Rest well and off you go! February 14, 2008

Deb said...Reading your blog takes me back to my camino path. November 7, 2008

JaneB said...I'm walking my first Camino in September when I'll be 50. Thank you for your blog, I've enjoyed reading it very much and shall note many of your albergues in the hope of visiting them! March 6, 2008

Antje Ritter said... Way to go Meredith! I read some of your posts and they were very enjoyable, so thank you for that. I hope you arrived home safely! Kind regards March 19, 2008

Liz wrote...Thank you so much for your posts! I am thinking of walking next year for Lent, and was worried about the condition of the Camino, if there were places to stay in winter, other pilgrims, etc. You have greatly eased my fears! (This will be my 3rd since 2005.) I hope you are well.March 21, 2008
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next chapter Camino 5 - 2009

map MSCAMINO/all years

or return to contents page

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2009-09-12T06:35:00.000-07:00

Attempt-2008

November 18, 2008

Almost on my way for the 5th time!

I plan to leave tomorrow morning from our house in Champagne and walk across the hills down the length of France and then on to Santiago, crossing the Pyrenees at St Jean Pied de Port from where my previous 4 Caminos departed. This would be a 2200 km journey, or 1200 kms longer than the previous walks!!

I hope to finish by my 70th birthday, 4 April 2009.

This year, for a change and for security, I will take a cellphone that doubles as a 5mp camera, the combined unit being lighter than the cameras I have carried before. Luckily I have learned how to upload photos and a short text directly to this blog for the many friends and followers who have requested updates about the state of such an admittedly ambitious undertaking.

My emotions include both anticipation and trepidation. As always I wonder how it all will go. My reasons for the journey include non-traditional spiritual ones offering thanks for my life so far as well as the excitement of another new adventure. As it is written in Psalm 119:45 "And I will walk at liberty:for I seek thy precepts." Ultreia

November 19, 2008

Baulne en Brie

This an attempt to write my blog via email. On Nov 19 I started my trek. After leaving our b&b at Reuilly I walked west for 4 k and then made my big turn south. For the next 1000 k or so I will be walking south by southwest. Slowly I walked through our neighboring villages getting used to the bulk of my pack (7 kg) as well as the general places to sit. After chatting with a few curious folk I ate a chilly picnic lunch sitting in the Condé en Brie cemetery. An hour later I arrived at Baulne en Brie which is my first stop. Bill joined me for dinner. We tried to establish our telephone connections. Bill left for home and I went to bed. I had walked 20k.

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November 20, 2008

Montmirail

I walked about 21 k in a light rain. Picnicking was difficult. The only places to sit were in bus shelters. Crossed lots of sugar beet country. Great piles of them resembling coconuts or rocks were left along the road waiting to be collected.My hotel was typically old fashioned with toilet and shower in the hall. The L-shaped Windsor bench at the entrance was most handsome. My mother would have loved it! Bill joined me again for dinner. It was strange to think that it would take him only 20 minutes to drive home what took me 2 days to walk!

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November 21, 2008

Esternay

Today I did 20 k. It was raining,cold and very windy. All was exhausting! Nevertheless I stayed in a comfortable pension usually occupied during the week by oil pump workers. Since it was a Friday I could get a room. On the way a pleasant young postgirl stopped to chat. She was amazed that I was walking in such weather to Vezelay alone. I passed this old manoir with a moat which Bill and I had looked at years ago when searching for our house. At that time it had a goat tied at the gate as guardian and was in need of great repair. Now the goat is gone, but even more repair is needed!

November 22, 2008

Villenauxe

It was bitter cold but the sun shown brightly as I walked 21 k to Villenauxe. Unfortunately I was stricken by diarrhea mid route. What a fluster to try to find a hidden patch of woods in time! It was not the best of moments. Bill met me and we stayed at the Hotel Flaubert. Our room was worse than ordinary, but the dining room was outstanding! We even bought a case of their champagne! Truly an example of taking coals to Newcastle since we live in the midst of the Marne valley champagne region.

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November 23, 2008

Bouy sur Orvin

After Bill and I said goodbye, it was a long cold trek of 29 k to Bouy sur Orvin ending in a snow shower! Exhausted and drenched I finally located this remote 300 year old manoir which is a handsome b&b. My suite, larger than many NYC apts, was 20 euros! There was even a full kitchen area. What a bargain! My hostess kindly offered a cup of welcome tea in her kitchen. I met her grown daughter who had worked in Chicago as an au paire. Sleeping on a cot in the kitchen was my host. Unfortunately he had recently suffered a stroke. The women referred to him constantly, but as the absence of a presence. Next morning when I said goodbye my hostess asked the traditional 'Pray for us at Compostela'. Indeed I shall.

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November 24, 2008

Villeneuve l' Archeveque

Starting out this morning the first 100 k were completed; only 2100 more to go! It was a long, hard 29 k to Villeneuve l' Archeveque. At times I was ready to faint. After hours along back roads the last 5 k were on the verges of a national route! Chaos! Huge rigs kept whizing past. It was bad as the entry into Leon on the Camino. Pure hell! At last I arrived at Le Vieux Moulin a converted riverside mill. Attractively renovated and very friendly the atmosphere resembled a Portugese pousada. Unfortunately my room was up 3 flights of stairs! The traveler's rate for room,dinner and breakfast was 54 euros. Good price and stop.

November 25, 2008

Cerisiers

Truly a freezing cold day. Did 20 k on back lanes crossing frozen beige and pale green fields. Ice crusted the puddles and fog swirled. I stayed in a simple farm b&b near Cerisiers. The heat was not so great so I wore my knitted hat to bed! Unfortunately my legs started to ache. No wonder since I am not only walking, but continually upright for 6 hours each day! There are few benches along the way. Thus ended my first week.

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November 26, 2008

Laroche Migennes

Another cold, foggy trudge of 26 k to Laroche Migennes. Along the way I bought a welcome goody at a small boulangerie. I ate it happily while sitting on a public bench, too lazy to remove my pack. Once I started walking again a car of Gendarmes passed, stopped, and checked my papers. You just can't be too careful about old ladies out hiking! The police were rather stunned that I was aiming for Vezelay; I didn't dare mention Spain and Santiago! At the end of this exhausting day I stayed a small riverside hotel. My room was down a flight of very steep steps;dinner was up the same damn steps. Each one hurt.

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November 27, 2008

Appoigny

Started to move south towards Auxerre. However, it wasn't easy. Had to do a long stretch on the verges of National 6. My body and nerves are exhausted. So many huge trucks! Stopped in Appoigny at a Formula 1 motel. The tiny roomette is like a train compartment (not the Orient Express) with toilets and showers in the corridors. For dinner I had a delicious steak and baked potato. Nervous walking produces an appetite.

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November 28, 2008

Auxerre

Walked 16 k on back roads to Auxerre. Actually talked with some helpful locals who showed me the way. It's a lovely place, but cold in the winter sunshine. Visited the impressive cathedral. Staying at the attractive Maison des Randonneurs where I have a tiny private room for 15 euros. No other guests. Spiritually I'm beginning to feel more 'at one', but right leg is very sore.

November 29-30, 2008

Cravant

Exhausting 25 k walk in sunshine along the Yonne river to get to Cravant. My right leg hurt tremendously when I arrived. In a rather luxurious hotel, the Hostellerie St Pierre. It is a very good value with room, gourmet dinner and buffet breakfast for 62 euros. Started taking Paracetamol for the pain. Spent two nights here in bed with my leg propped up writing my blog. Slowly felt better. Tomorrow I move on.

December 1, 2008

Mailly le Chateau

After a full day of rest on Sunday, it was a relatively easy walk of 14 k to Mailly le Chateau along the Yonne. At long last I saw a street named Rue de Vezelay! It was getting closer. Unfortunately I had another attack of the 'trots' en route. Bill arrived by car. Our b&b for the night was called Le Camino with a painted shell, the shell of St James, for its sign. Warm and cozy it also boasted a fine collection of books about the trail. Our hostess had walked to Santiago in 2000 so we compared memories.

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December 2, 2008

Chatel Censoir

My right leg still hurt a lot. Since Bill had the car he took my backpack while I limped on 12 k to Chatel Censoir. It was difficult walking beside such great rocks! After a good lunch I rested all afternoon at another b&b. Even indoors whenever I moved my walking stick was necessary for support.

December 3-4, 2008

Vezelay

Without a pack and in a light rain I walked the final 19 k into Vezelay. As I staggered up the last hill I knew that physically I needed a long pause. My leg was almost useless. Bill and I checked into a most comfortable hotel.

Next morning we visited the magnificent abbey church of St Mary Magdelaine. For the last 50 years or so ever since university days I have loved the interior of this structure. Romanesque, Gothic, and 19th century intervention are all combined into timeless beauty. Whatever one believes here eternal peace is combined with man-made perfection. I gave my silent thanks for getting this far and vowed to continue if and when possible. ... Bill and I then drove back in 3 1/2 hours the 220 k which had taken me almost 2 weeks to walk. Hopefully I will continue in January 2009.

...later in Comments Martha wrote...

.........Dear Margaret, I stayed up way too late last night reading your 2008 posts. You have my admiration for undertaking the Camino in winter! I hope by now your leg has recovered and that you are getting ready to resume your 5th Camino. Best wishes to you.

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next chapter Camino 5 - 2009

map MSCAMINO/all years

or return to contents page

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2009-09-11T01:23:00.000-07:00

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January 21, 2009

Leaving Again

Tomorrow I leave on my Fifth Camino!

As Sir Walter Raleigh wrote in the 16th century in His Pilgrimage

"GIVE me my scallop-shell of quiet,
My staff of faith to walk upon,
My scrip of joy, immortal diet,
My bottle of salvation,
My gown of glory, hope's true gage;
And thus I'll take my pilgrimage...."

.....Later in Comments Martha wrote...
.........Godspeed! I'm so glad you are back on your feet!

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January 22, 2009

St Jean Pied de Port

Today I took the TGV from Paris to Bayonne and then the local train here. I am staying in the wonderful albergue run by Mme Jeanine. Entering the front door begins the new adventure!

Ultrea!

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January 23, 2009

Breakfast with Mme Jeanine

After an early breakfast this morning with Mme Jeanine I set off in the rain. It felt great to be walking again!

Although it had been cold last night I felt snug by folding a blanket in half and placing my sleeping bag on top of one half and the other half on top of it. It made cozy 'sandwich' for sleeping.

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January 23, 2009

Valcarlos

Today I walked about 14k to Valcarlos. This is a good stopping place before tomorrow's climb to Roncevalles. It rained all day and I was soaked! However efficient electric heating and a great hot shower made all the differance. Now it's toasty.

This is a brand new municipal albergue and guite differant from the old one where I stayed on earlier Caminos. It is a bargain at 10 euros. However you still access it via the town hall so that you must arrive during business hours.

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January 24, 2009

Roncevales

At last I am at the almost mythic monastery of Roncevales. It has been quite a day! Walked 18 k in 5 hours through strong wind, heavy rain, sleet and eventually dence snow! Saw no other pilgrims and few people. Tourists in one car that passed took my picture and the Guardia Civile asked if I needed help or a ride. Now it is GREAT to be inside, seated and relatively warm. I am the only pilgrim.

The monk who stamped my Credential invited me to the evening benediction for pilgrims. It was lovely. The service was held in the ancient Romanesque church (now cosyily heated) in front of the magnificent silver sculpture of the Virgin. Three monks assisted and asked me to stand at the altar. ...In retrospect how special it was to be the single pilgrim where crowds have stood throughout time. ...Today I took no photos since the storm was too strong.

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January 26, 2009

Zubiri

Yesterday I left Roncevalles as dawn broke. Lots of snow covered the ground and surrounding mountains. Walking for safety on the N135 roadway and not the Camino, I trudged along. Down then up and down again; alone for 30k or 18 miles! Truly alone amidst the pines like some German storybook character. Also worried since my telephone had stopped working and I knew that Bill would be concerned not hearing from me.

Exhausted, by mid afternoon I arrived at Zubiri. Found the excellent Pension Usoa. Clean, warm and cozy; perfection! Called Bill and learned how to fix the portable. At last all was calm....Today it also snowed so I will stay in Zubiri again tonight.

.....Later in photo Comments...
........R Wealthy said...Great!
........and Bill Graham said...Superb! And judging from the reflection you shot it from inside the room which I hope was warm.

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January 28, 2009

Trinidad de Arre

After spending a second full day in Zubiri I decided to leave this morning no matter what the weather. In fog and light rain I walked mainly on the road due to all the water and mud accumulated along the Camino. Other than one mad dash into the very wet grass for a 'loo' all was fine. The famous Agra River where Hemmingway liked to fish was churning with high water.

Earlier I had worried about one area on today's route remembered from past Caminos. It mounts steeply up and then clings to a clift for a stretch before leveling out. It could be dangerous in the rain! Even a search on the Net for alternative hiking routes into Trinidad was unsuccessful. Nervous I walked closer. Suddenly in the distance approaching me appeared a guy holding an umbrella.

At first I was leery since it was hardly weather for strolling! We greeted each other and chatted mixing Spanish, French and English. Best of all he knew another level path which would join that to Trinidad! We walked safely on together....Such chance encounters make up the Camino's serendipity.

.....Later in photo Comments Bill Graham wrote...
.........I like the composition here.

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January 29, 2009

Mario!

At the very moment last night as I wrote the word 'serendipity' in my blog and sent it off another pilgrim entered the albergue. Happily speaking Italian he was welcomed at the door by the two Spanish pilgrims. I was writing in the common room. The Italian entered, started to say 'buona sera' and then enthusiastically shouted 'Margaret'! Imagine my delight upon realizing that he was Mario whom I had last seen at Burguete in 2008 during Camino 4!! Another fortuitous chance encounter indeed.

We and a French pilgrim, Polo, had met on the little train going to St Jean Pied de Port. As Mario and I recollected those 'old times' we tentatively promised to meet again next year in 2010 on the Camino. May our lives be such that we míght.

.....Later in photo Comments Bill Graham wrote...
.........What an incredible coincidence! And how much your photos are improving with putting the center of interest slightly off center. That little cellphone camera serves well.

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January 29, 2009

Cizor Menor

Today was an easy, but wet, walk across Pamplona to Cizor Menor. I revisited the magnificent Gothic cathedral where the cloister paving was treacherous from recent downpours. Besides its architectural style much of the art within the complex came from France. As such it exemplifies the close ecclesiastical/political bonds between Navarre and France throughout history.

Leaving the church in pouring rain I met a charming priest. He wore a beret and insisted on holding his huge umbrella over both of us. After wishing me 'buen Camino', he made the sign of the Cross. All this at a busy street corner in pouring rain!

Now I am at the comfortable private albergue run by the Roncal family. There are two Spanish guys also. They seem to have tons of stuff in huge backpacks. We all ate at the nearby El Tremento restaurant. Their Pilgrim Menu was delicious, copious and cheap!

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January 30, 2009

Tiebas

Today I went off the Camino Frances and cut across country to Tiebas on the trail coming from the Somport pass. Both trails will join at Puente la Reina. It was an easy 16k ending in sunshine! How nice after a week of storms. As I was walking along the country road several times drivers stopped concerned that I was NOT on the main Camino!

There are two reasons that I came this way; in order to avoid the steep Alto de Perdon which I laboriously climbed twice before and this is the route for Eunate where I hope to be tomorrow. Here in Tiebas also at lunch in the one cafe were two French pilgrims who had crossed at Somport. We compared snowstorm stories.

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January 31, 2009

Eunate

Once again today I walked into perfection, the church of Santa Maria de Eunate. This small, circular structure is more than 1000 years old and may be based on the plan of the Holy Sepulcher in Jerusalem. Nestled into the rolling countryside it is truly timeless. Protected within the dim interior one senses the deep peace of eternity. ...May my memory of such beauty and calm endure.

Although I have visited Eunate several times last year was the first time I stayed at the albergue.
Today I am the first pilgrim to stay in 2009! Jean, the French hospitalero, is still here and so very gracious. He invited me to join him and some friends for tea. We ate the most delicious goodies! What a wonderful day this has been.

.....Later in Comments Anon wrote...
.........Walked there in the summer of 1995. Deep respect for your undertaking as winter pilgrim. Eunate is indeed a magical place . Hope that during the coming days the weather will not affect your walking too much. Puenta de la Reina is nice. Keep warm. Ultreya

and in photo Comments Bill Graham said ...
.........If I recall correctly this is the tiny albergue just a few meters from the church. It is hard to believe there is room in that small building for a dining area AND beds. Your little cellphone camera sure does a fine job.

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February 1, 2009

Puente la Reina

Before breakfast at Eunate Jean placed this lovely prayer beside my place at table.

"May the way open to meet you,
May the wind be always at your back,
May the sun shine warm upon your face,
May the rain fall softly upon your fields,
And, until we meet again,
May God hold you in the palm of His hand."

Indeed might this be so.
It was hard to leave. May Eunate last another 1000 years. ...

I quickly walked the few kilometers to Puente la Reina and settled into the albergue run by the Padres Reparadores. It is next to the Romanesque Church of the Crucifix. Pilgrims have been welcomed here for centuries. Four Spanish guys arrived. One had been walking since November. He had followed the Via del Plata from Seville to Santiago and now was walking the Camino in reverse. The others were going my way towards the west.

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February 2, 2009

Estella

First thing this morning I had a tasty breakfast at a nice little cafe right on the Camino before the famous bridge. The freshly squeezed orange juice was a real treat. Once across the bridge a man told me that the Camino was far too muddy and suggested that I walk as far as Maneru on the road. He was briskly walking for his health and tried to do 10k every day.

At Maneru I rejoined the Camino and set out across vineyards and lots of mud.Eventually near Cirauqui the path follows antique Roman paving and uses two ancient bridges. By Spanish lunchtime or mid afternoon the three guys from the night before caught up with me. We all arrived at the Estella albergue together covered with mud and are the only pilgrims.

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February 3, 2009

Villamayor de Monjardin

I left Estella just after sunrise. At long last the weather was wonderful with a clear azure sky and no wind. Perfect for walking! The landscape has changed with many more vineyards and on the far horizon snow-topped mountains. When passing the impressive monastery at Irache which I had visited on earlier Caminos, I didn't wait in the cold for the necessary hour when it would be open. Soon the three Spanish guys passed saying "adios". I'll miss their hearty presence.

Since the parish albergue in Villamayor de Monjardin is closed now I am staying in another pleasant albergue run by a Dutch group. The two hospitaleros are very gracious and friendly. They cooked a delicious 'ristafel' which we shared with much talk about our personal beliefs. The only problem is the heating system has just been installed and is not yet working correctly. This dorm is FREEZING!

...Later in photo Comments Don Pedro de Carrion de los Condes
......said Lovely shot! Keep on walking!

......and Bill Graham wrote Handsome composition, Meredith. Good work. Photos are getting better all the time. Hope the next albergue has a heated dorm. It must be hard to type on those little Nokia N82 keys in the cold!

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February 4, 2009

Los Arcos

It was an easy walk of 12k
to Los Arcos. The weather and path were perfect; clear azure sky, bright sunshine (in fact I got quite rosey) and a wide, dry path with no mud. The type of day one dreams about. Mid route two pilgrims came up. One had been walking since Aix-le-Chapelle in Germany where Charlemagne was crowned. They said 'hello/goodbye' and sped on walking with the wind.

Here in Los Arcos although there are 3 albergues only 1 was open. Since I had unhappily stayed there last year I did not return. (I do NOT recomend the private albergue near the municipal one!) Now I am in a cozy room in the pension Mavi. The heat is great and the food very good.

.....Later in Comments Anon wrote...
.........Enjoy your next night in Torres de Rio. Great church as I remember. Hope the weather will not be too bad tomorrow. Ultreya !

and in photo Comments Don Pedro de Carrion de los Condes said...
.........Indeed you have great weather!

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February 5, 2009

Torres del Rio

The weather changed drastically from yesterday. The sky was pewter and threatening rain. However I quickly walked the few kilometers to Torres del Rio while remembering the time when I slipped in the mud and drastically hurt my knee.

Torres which is a picturesque hill town has a wonderful circular Romanesque church similar to Eunate. At night the church is beautifully illuminated.

The municipal albergue is closed so I am in a homey private one, Casa Maria. The loos and showers are outside on the patio so it better not rain. There are five other pilgrims; two girls only going as far as Logrono, a Polish guy, and a Canadian couple. We are all squeezed into three bunk beds in a small dorm. At least we will keep each other warm!

.....Later in photo Comments Don Pedro de Carrion de los Condes wrote...
.........It 's a great church as I remember! Hope the weather is not too bad for you. Have a nice meal with wine and enjoy!

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February 6, 2009

Logrono

It was cold and wet walking to Logrono. The sky was dark and the land sodden with water and,of course, mud. Hence for safety until Viana I walked on the road. Just outside Logrono the Camino entered a new region, Rioja.

It is always a pleasure to stay in the Logrono albergue. The Amigos keep it immaculate and there is interesting art about. Tonight we are 5 pilgrims; 2 Canadians, 1 Polish, 1 Spanish biker and myself. Hopefully no one will snore.

.....Later in Comments Anon wrote...
.........Hope you will have an enjoyable walk in the region of the good wines!

.....In photo Comments Don Pedro de Carrion de los Condes said ...Hope you will enjoy the good wines of Rioja!

.....and Margriet van Tulder, The Netherlands, said...Great to see that you are doing fine on your pilgrimage. I will certainly keep following your travel en enjoying your photos. Good luck!

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February 7, 2009

Navarrete

This morning I left the Logrono albergue before dawn broke. After crossing much of the city finally I found a bar open for breakfast. As usual the freshly squeezed orange juice was great!
Unfortunately it started to snow. What a mess! The sidewalks turned slippery and it was difficult to see.
Nevertheless in the big recreational area on the west of the city there were several hardy souls. One jogger was even wearing shorts!

It was good to finally stop and get warm. Since the municipal albergue here in Navarrete is closed the Canadians and I are staying in a very comfortable private albergue, El Cantaro. We also had a truly delicious lunch at a nearby bar, El Molino. Now happily warm, dry, clean and full I will sleep!

.....Later in Photo Comments Don Pedro de Carrion de los Condes wrote...
.........Great impression ! Ultreya as they say !

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February 8, 2009

Najerra on Sunday

Today the sky was cloudy and the wind cold hiking to Najera. Innumerable vineyards were planted in heavy, deep red soil. Truly terra cotta. It can be exhausting to walk through this stuff which really sticks to your boots! My legs ache.

Tonight there several 'new' pilgrims with the Canadians and me; 3 Spanish guys and 2 Spanish women. The historic albergue used to be in the famous monastery, Santa Maria la Real, built against the imposing red sandstone cliff. Now handsomely restored the monastery has become a museum. The present albergue located on the riverbank seems to have been recently assembled from prefabricated units, but tonight there is neither much heat nor any blankets. I'll wear my wool hat to bed and try to keep warm!

.....Later in Comments Anon wrote...
.........Much respect for your undertakings... Take care. Ultreya

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February 9, 2009

Santo Domingo de la Calzada

It was a hard push walking 25 k to Santo Domingo de la Calzada. Much of the way is up and out of the vineyards. There is nowhere to sit, not even a big rock. The distant snow-capped mountains are beautiful, however, especially when lit with early sunlight.

After gently climbing for at least 2 hours in such natural beauty it is a shock to finally arrive on top and find a new golf course and huge housing estate! Much is unsold and may never be sold, but the landscape is marred forever.

As I began the descent towards Santo Domingo suddenly I saw the Austrian hospitalero from Ventoso, a nearby village where I stayed 2 years ago. She still assists there but now has her own albergue in Cireuena. She is a wonderful hostess. Either spot (both are now closed for winter) would be a good stop.

When I arrived at the parish albergue in Santo Domingo that hospitalero said that the cathedral was closed for work. I asked where the famous chickens were. Usually they live in a splendid coop WITHIN the church. He took me by the hand into the albergue garden. There in an ordinary coop the chickens are spending the winter! (For a full discussion of WHY there are chickens in the church and much other history regarding the Camino read my earlier blogs for 2004-2008.)

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February 10, 2009

Granon

Last night after I crawled into my sleeping bag in the dorm I had to get out and move due to the incessant LOUD snores of the Spanish guy. What a racket! In desperation I slept on the floor of the 'dining' room. It was wonderfully silent until the chickens crowed before dawn!

Today was a rest day with only a short walk of 6 k to Granon. It is always a pleasure to arrive at this albergue! The hospitality is authentic although the hospitaleros change. The sign at the door simply reads 'Welcome pilgrim, make this your home'.

The handsomely renovated space is set within one of the church towers. A fireplace has even been installed. All is very relaxing. Delicious meals are offered by the hospitaleros. Although the only pilgrim I was joined at both lunch and dinner by two workers who are restoring the church interior.

Lack of heat is the only problem! We all ate dinner wearing our coats. Now I will again wear my woolly hat to bed, or, to be precise, to mat. Here pilgrims sleep on mats on the floor of an added mezanine.

.....Later in photo Comments Don Pedro de Carrion de los Condes wrote...
.........It is a great place!

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February 11, 2009

Belorado

Today I got up early and was walking as the dawn broke. Brown hills, blue sky and a biting wind from the west composed the scene. Shortly after the Camino entered the region of Castille and Leon I stopped for a while in the village of Viloria de la Rioja, the birthplace of Santo Domingo, the 'engineer' saint of Calzada fame. Today there is a very pleasant private albergue, Refugio Acacio & Orietta, run by a Brazilian and his wife. Their hospitality is gracious and their library outstanding! Next time I'll stay longer.

When I finally reached Belorado only one private albergue was open. Painted orange it is huge with many dorms each having 20 bunks. All is spotless and anonymous. I was alone with wonderful HEAT. However 5 Spanish guys have just arrived exhausted, cold and wet. They have walked 50k on their first day! I wonder if they will even attempt a second.

......Later in Comments Acacio wrote
.........Thanks. Orietta and I stay here at the Refugio Acacio&Orietta to help all peregrinos all the year...Next year I hope you will stay too one day...Buen camino !!! Acacio & Orietta

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February 12, 2009

Villafranca Montes de Oca

Today was not the best. The sky was dark, the hills brown, and the mud thick as I trudged along. Unfortunately I also had the 'trots' which made everything more depressing.

It was a GREAT relief to arrive at the Villafranca Monte de Oca albergue. In an old school the door is always open. I always feel at home here after spending 3 snowy nights during the 2006 blizzard (Camino 2).

After a hot shower I ate a delicious 'menu de dia' including paella and trout stuffed with ham at the El Pajaro a nearby restaurant popular with truckers. A long siesta followed. Now two Spanish bikers have just arrived; we three are the only pilgrims.

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February 13, 2009

crossing the Montes de Oca to Ages

Today the weather was perfect with a clear blue sky, frosted vegetation and generally frozen mud. Walking 16k through pine forest crossing the Montes Oca to Ages was relatively easy. I never saw anyone until San Juan Ortega.

Revisiting that beautiful monastery church was sad. The priest who had been so active there revitalizing the Camino died one year ago. How lucky I had been to sample his famous garlic soup served to pilgrims after evening mass during my first Camino. ...May he be in peace.

At Ages many of the albergues are closed. So I am staying at a charming private place, the House of the Snail, where I also stayed last year. The gracious hospitalero is named Paz. The only problem is the lack of any heat other than the wood burning kitchen stove. This dorm is truly FREEZING; another night of wearing my knitted hat to bed!

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February 15, 2009

Burgos

It has been a busy 2 days. Walking from Ages to Burgos was an exhausting 26k over hill and dale. Passed through Altapuerta where the oldest human skeletons have been found in Europe and then saw strange flat stone circles on a hill which I assume were laid by those early men. After such bucollic musing the junction of the Camino with Highway 1 was a jolt! At least there was a sidewalk.

Finally I arrived at the wonderful new Burgos municipal albergue. Close to the cathedral in a handsome historic townhouse with ingenious new interior spaces it is a bargain at 3 euros! I asked to stay 2 nights in order to get a bit of heated rest.

When I arrived exhausted the hospitalero was going to lunch and invited me to tag along. We ate in a Senior center and had paella, liver, and yogurt for 5 euros each. Another bargain.

Today I had to be out on the street by 8am. It was cold looking for an open cafe for breakfast. Next I revisited the magnificent cathedral. Within its priceless collection are two of my favorite images of Santiago; one as a pilgrim, the other as a warrior. The first is a small standing figure with wonderful curly gold hair and beard. His broad brimmed hat boasts a shell and he holds a staff with water gourd. The other is Santiago Matamoros where he is riding a rearing horse and slaying Moors.

Now it's time to sleep and to gain strength for tomorrow's route.

.....Later in Comments Elly wrote...
.........Your web diary has gotten me off the fence in respect to making my decision to return to the Camino. I fly into Barcelona from Broome, Australia on the 9th of March!! I did the Camino in 04, but had huge trouble with my archilles tendons -too ambitious too early on. Now I return to complete it, hopefully walking into Santiago on Good Friday and turning 40 in Paris on the 14th April. I hope to see you there somewhere? And wish you a happy 70th.

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February 16, 2009

near Hornillos del Camino

Left Burgos at dawn for a long trek across the city and eventually starting to climb the baren Mesquita on the west. Walked about 26k in all.

Just outside Burgos the Camino passes a large prison with an old- fashioned panopticon plan where one guard could stand in the center and survey all. It appears to still be in use. One can imagine the frustration and bitterness of the prisoners towards the hoards of pilgrims free to walk at liberty on the Camino just beyond that fence!

Since the albergue in Hornillos is closed for renovation tonight I am off the Camino at a Casa Rurale called El Molino in nearby Vilviestre de Muno. This handsome bed and breakfast is a renovated water mill. After I telephoned the owner picked me up from the Camino to spend the night at the mill and will return me after breakfast tomorrow to the same spot on the Camino. A proper bed with sheets will be a nice change!

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February 17, 2009

Castrojeriz

Yesterday at the Casa Rural I never had dinner, but ate a picnic in my room instead. In the night other guests arrived. We all met at breakfast this morning. They are also pilgrims, a father and adult son from Korea taking time out 'to get to know each other'. Eventually our host drove the three of us back to Hornillos to continue following the Camino.

We set off; the guys in front since I like to walk slowly. After one or two kilometers suddenly there was a spurt of patting their pockets followed by looks of disillusion. Something was missing! Indeed the father had left his Credential and wallet on the breakfast table now located 8 kilometers away!! He asked me to telephone the Casa Rural for help.

It was quite a conversation with me speaking French and English and the staff Spanish. Nevertheless all was somehow understood and they kindly brought his forgotten items to him.

Now 24k later we 3 are in the pleasant municipal albergue in Castrojeriz. There are also an Irish guy and a Spanish couple. The Spanish are traveling with a DONKEY which is noisily eating outside the window! He also seems to snort a lot. ...What a world!

......Later in Comments Anon said...
.........Great account!......and Kerry Bail wrote... Watching and reading your progress, well done. Keep going and keep up with the interesting blogs and photos. Hope all is ok.

......Later in photo Comments Don Pedro de Carrion de los Condes said:
.........Aha, a snoring donkey! Big fun !!

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February 19, 2009

Leaving Castrojeriz

Yesterday was another lovely morning with a pale blue sky and gentle sunshine. Gerry, the Irish pilgrim, and I had breakfast near the albergue at the Taverna a bar which has a Brazilian connection. They are always very welcoming to pilgrims. The owner, a true diplomat, said "Hola Americana!" as I entered! What a memory! After copious servings of toast and fresh orange juice the two of us set off.

It was a steep climb up the next mesa but the view from 'the top of the world' was worth it. One could see widely for many kilometers; to the east the path we had taken and to the west the path we would take. It was a brief, perfect moment.

Then suddenly perfection was smashed. My phone rang with a text message/bill from the French service provider. The sum was HUGE! Services I had believed to be included in the basic plan were all charged individually by the minute because I was in Spain. What a jolt!

Gerry and I continued walking down into the region of Palentia and the village Itero de le Vega where we stayed in a private albergue at the entrance to town. Two Spanish guys joined us. Unfortunately Gerry and I were sick in the night.

Thus today we slowly walked to Fromista. Now I am in a cozy room in a nice pension, Casa Marisa, where I stayed on earlier Caminos. The food is good too. Hopefully by tomorrow all will be ok.

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February 20, 2009

Carrion de Los Condes

Spending last night in the comfortable pension was a true rest. This morning Gerry and I continued meeting a German couple and a Danish girl 'en route'. The chill was brisk with thin ice on the puddles, but the blue sky was clear with milky sunshine. After 19 k we all arrived in Carrion de Los Condes and are staying in the Espiritu Santo convent.

On the way at Villalcazar de Sirga the famous Templar church was closed. However another of my favorite Camino sculptures was in plain view in front of a restaurant. Here is a chubby life-sized pilgrim complete with shell, water-gourd and staff seated at a table set with plate and mug. Next to him is an empty seat for you the passing pilgrim. 'Buen Proveche/Bon Appetite!'

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February 22, 2009

Sahagun

Yesterday's Camino basically followed an old Roman route to Calzadilla de la Cueza. It was an exhausting 20k. I walked with Stine a Danish pilgrim who resembled the aviatrix Amelia Earheart wearing a chic black walking suit and tìght cap. Gerry could not walk; he was too sick.

There was one Spanish pilgrim in the albergue and the same hospitalero as two years ago who cooked dinner for us. He certainly kept the place warm; in fact it was tropical!... In the evening across the hills there was a surreal moonrise which resembled painted theatrical scenery. Magic.

Today I walked alone about 23k to Sahagun. The municipal albergue is closed for renovation so I am in a simple hostal across the street. Somewhere mid-morning the halfway point to Santiago from St Jean Pied de Port was crossed. Hence now I am on the 'other side' of my mental map.

At San Nicolas del Real Camino I ate Sunday lunch at the Casa Barrunta where I always stop. The food is good and they are pilgrim friendly. During the past five years nothing has changed except the waiter looks a little older, but so do I!

...Later in photo Comments Don Pedro de Carrion de los Condes said......Lovely! and BaxeeHun said......Its the most interesting scene I have seen!!!

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February 23, 2009

El Burgo Ranero

The albergue here in El Burgo Raneros is closed for repairs so I am in a hostal across the way. All these unavailable albergues 'under repair' is denting my budget, since any alternative to pilgrim lodging is usually far more expensive!

Walked 18 k this morning in sunshine with a constant matinal companion - my shadow. Always there slightly to my right since the morning sun is behind me, it is an uncomplaining, intimate presence. ... Shades of Peter Pan! However, it does seems to slouch a bit!

Although I do get weary I love walking! Hearing the continual crunch of one's footsteps is very reassuring. You know that you can do it and can continue to do it as long as you have the energy. Ultreia!

...Later in Comments B said...
......Great photos. Glad to hear you have good weather. All is well here.

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February 24, 2009

Mansilla de las Mulas

Today was another beautiful one for walking. I did the 18 k to the walled town of Mansilla de las Mulas by lunch and since the albergue door wasn't open went to the restaurant next door for the Menu de Dia. The owner, when asked what time the albergue opened, simply shrugged and hadn't a clue! Although the two buildings share a party wall their inhabitants share no words!

Eventually the albergue did open and the pleasant hospitalero remembered me from past Caminos. Polyglot and very pilgrim friendly she always keeps this place immaculate. She mentioned that tomorrow it, too, would be 'closed for repairs'. Such repairs are not ordinary renovation but FUMIGATION! It seems that many albergues were attacked by an infestation of either fleas or bedbugs last autumn. Although generally killed by winter cold professional intervention will really do the job.

Tonight there are 5 other pilgrims; 2 Spanish guys, the Danish girl, a young German fellow who has been walking since October starting near Leipzig and a French man who previously has treked to Rome. Tired and quite rosey from a day in the sun, sitting around the kitchen table all of us shared our tales.

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February 26, 2009

Leon

I walked 17k into Leon yesterday under a cobalt sky and brilliant sun. It was actually hot!
Just before the Camino entered the city it crossed a major highway. Dashing across those several lanes of traffic is always unnerving and dangerous. What a relief to arrive on the other side in one sweaty piece!

I am staying two nights at the Benedictine convent near the cathedral. Very pleasant; it is comfortable, clean, heated and serves a good free breakfast. The Mother Superior said that she remembered me from past years! I think it is my age, glasses, white hair, and tan as well as the fact that I always wear the same navy blue clothes that people remember. How to create an image at 69!

Mid morning I sampled one of the delicious gastronomic specialties of Leon; hot chocolate so thick that the spoon almost stood up in the cup. This was served with freshly made cruellers. What a delicious, caloric treat! Fuel for tomorrow's trek.

Later in photo Comments Don Pedro de Carrion de los Condes said... ......You're more than halfway !

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February 27, 2009

Villadangos del Paramo

I left Leon in milky sunshine and started toward the distant snow-capped mountains wondering as I walked where exactly the Camino would cross and my route would lie for the next few days.

At the town of Virgen del Camino I revisted the splendid contemporary church built for the Dominicans late last century by Francisco Coello a follower of the Brutalist style of Le Corbusier. Located in the midst of chaotic suburb it is a superbly maintained architectural gem as well as a haven of peace. Perfection.

As I continued it actually got hot! Cold Coke instead of my usual hot tea tasted great. By Spanish lunchtime I had covered 22k and was dripping with sweat. At Villadangos del Paramo I staggered into a truck stop near the albergue. What a way to make an impact! The place was packed; about 80 very macho men and I enjoyed the daily special. They all seemed curious about what I chose for dessert!

Now at the albergue which is as FRIGID as last year there are three other pilgrims; a Spanish girl who has only just begun and a French man with a teenage boy. The man has volunteered to walk with delinquent youth to try and redirect them towards a better life style. He and the boy have been walking for 2 months. Starting in Seville they followed the Via de Plata north to Santiago and now are returning to St Jean Pied de Port by walking the Camino 'in reverse'. Their journey of potential rehabilitation will end in another month. ...May it be a success!

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February 28, 2009

Hospital de Orbigo

This morning we four ate a quick early breakfast together in the still frigid albergue. Then the two French guys left going east towards Leon while the Spanish girl, named Mayte, and I continued west. The way was easy and the path wide, but the weather has changed to cloudy and grey with a hint of rain.

At San Martino del Camino Mayte and I stopped at a private albergue for a delicious and copious second breakfast. It was also a bargain! Huge cups of tea, lots of hot toast, muffins and special homemade jam for 3 euros each. Our hostess remembered me from stops during earlier Caminos.

Around lunchtime we arrived at Hospital de Orbigo where I fell in 2004. The parish albergue which is in part of the manse has been handsomely refurbished with new bedding, kitchen and showers. The townspeople are very welcoming and the priest most gracious and VERY talkative. Two other pilgrims arrived later; a German boy and a Spanish man. We are all sleeping in the same small dorm which is HEATED. It is very cozy!

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March 1, 2009

Astorga

In the rain and wearing our ponchos Mayte and I set off early this morning for Astorga. Although the path was very muddy and quite slippery, the dense colors of the landscape were lovely. All was terra cotta, umber, and deepest green.

One wandering puppy walked with us for the longest time as if he were our guide. Once the towers of the cathedral could be seen in the fog on the distant horizon, the puppy turned and left. His job was done; we could see our goal.

Now we are staying in the very comfortable albergue, Siervas de Maria, on the eastern edge of the city. There are about 10 other pilgrims, all guys. Once a convent this is a recently renovated multi-level space. It has many dorms and good facilities. Most important for the moment is HEAT! I am tired of wearing my wooly hat to bed trying to keep warm!

Late tonight the city will celebrate the end of Carnival with nearby fireworks. Hopefully I will be warm, asleep and oblivious to any noise.

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March 2, 2009

Santa Catalina de Somoza

Left the albergue early for breakfast on the Plaza Mayor. Many of the other pilgrims joined me; then we went our separate ways. After buying some basic food and getting euro bills in small denominations (try using a 50 euro bill in a remote village) I set out towards
the mountains.

While crossing the highway a brown UPS delivery truck zoomed past. How strange to see that familiar color and logo in English here in very rural Spain! Mentally I associate such trucks with childhood parcels from Macy's delivered sixty years ago. How times have changed!

Now I am in the tiny mountain village of Santa Catalina de Somoza staying in a private albergue over a bar, the San Blas. It is cheap, very friendly and extremely clean. Hope the heat works!

Later in Comments French pilgrims wrote...Hello! We are the two French pilgrims at Tiebas. We are happy and surprised to find your blog. You were the first pilgrim that we met after 4 days of Camino and it was a pleasure to eat with you. Just after we went to Eunate. You were right it's a one of the best places of the Camino, always in our mind. Unluckly the albergue was closed and we went on to Puente la Reina. Later, we also met Mario THE Italiano (in Villafranca, after Santo Domingo de la Calzada) : a very sympathic guy! We came back to Dijon two weeks ago and you are lucky to still be on the Camino. Ultreia! Buen Camino!

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March 3, 2009

Rabinal del Camino

Today was glorious with a cobalt sky and bright sun. As Mayte and I walked the easy 12k up towards the picturesque village of Rabinal del Camino the once distant mountains became close.

We were the first to arrive at the private albergue de Pillar; now there are about 20 pilgrims including many guys with bad blisters and one young Japanese girl. On arrival our hostess hugged me tight while recalling my earlier visits.

In the cold dusk some attended evening mass in a small 18th century chapel; the service was sung by two monks from the local monastery. Both gilded and painted in pastel tones the glorious Rococo retable had at its top a charming statue of Santiago dressed in his usual pilgrim garb. ....Leaving the service the sky was heavy with clouds and it felt like it might snow.

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March 5, 2009

Foncebadon

Before dawn yesterday morning a continuous brisk noise resounded within the dorm. Could someone be stuffing plastic bags? No, sleet was hitting the roof. The weather had changed, drastically!

Nevertheless we pilgrims set off to cross the mountain. Our path grew more and more slippery. Snow began to fall; pretty at first, then stinging and very cold with an incessant wind. Walking with great difficulty on the snow-covered road after 6 k I arrived at the tiny village of Foncebadon. During my first Camino it had been a ruin.

Luckily a private albergue, Monte Irago, has been created and was OPEN. After delicious hot tea and toast Mayte and decided to stay in this warm and cozy spot. ... Now a full day later the snow outside is deep and still falling and the wind still howling. What a storm! We may be here until the spring thaw!

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March 6, 2009

Foncebadon continued

Our third day here has begun. The main room now resembles descriptions of Mt Everest base camp! Several new pilgrims who were stuck at Rabinal have made it here since the storm seems to have broken. Supposedly the road is being plowed so if no change for the worse occurs tomorrow I will try to continue. Outside there are at least 75 centimeters on the ground with much deeper drifts.

Psychologically the mood this morning is a mix of Sartre's No Exit and some 1930's social realism written by Clifford Odets.
Instead of being greatly relieved to find physical warmth, clean beds and good food available in the middle of a snowstorm on the side of a mountain, some pilgrims complain about the prices! Indeed, they are slightly higher than in Astorga but the stuff has to be brought in.

.....Later in Comments Joan wrote...Hi! What an epic journey! So glad to get your accounts. I hope the weather warms up for you.

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March 7, 2009

El Acebo

Today Mayte and I finally left Foncebadon walking up the plowed, dry road to the mythic Cruz de Ferro. Giving thanks for being able to come this far, I tossed a stone carried from our French garden onto the immense pile at the base of the famous iron cross. Pilgrims have made this same gesture since the middle ages; today the scene resembled a medieval landscape painting with deep white snow covering the ground and thick white fog swirling above. ...All seemed timeless.

Now we are in El Acebo, a charming mountain village. Little has been 'gussied up'; much is authentic. Slate from the mountains covers the roofs; second floor porch galleries open onto the single street, the Camino. A friendy bar/restaurant, Meson El Acebo, has an albergue dorm upstairs. Eight other pilgrims are here tonight. Hope the heat works!

...Later in Comments Joan wrote...Hi,I have been following you since Jan everyday, then you disappeared after Santa Catalina until today.I am so glad you are back. My friends and I leave Vancouver at the end of the month to start our Camino at Cahors Apr 1st. Your blog has been a great help.I now have many "must sees" on my list. Thanks.

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March 8, 2009

Ponferrada

Today's long walk down to industrial Ponferrada was lovely; eventually it was hot with bright sunshine and a cobalt blue sky. Happily I removed my gloves, hat and jacket. Spring has arrived. What a difference from just 48 hours ago! On the hills almond trees were blooming as well as daffodils in suburban gardens.

Unfortunately the albergue is not so pleasant; it seems crowded with about 25 pilgrims jammed into 6 small dorms. We all use the same toilet/shower facilities. Thus the waiting lines are often very long! However, the free Internet is great.

I am always amazed by the amount of stuff that some pilgrims lug with them. First of all their backpacks are too big plus being filled with far too much. A good 'rule' to follow is to carry no more than 10 % of one's weight; I weigh 65 kilos and my pack loaded, but without food, is 6.5 kilos. (All my winter kit is listed in Camino 2/2006.)

Many winter pilgrims also wear clothing that is far too bulky. It doesn't need to be thick in order to be warm! I wear a long sleeve runner's shirt over a short sleeve technical tee shirt. My jacket is a lightweight windbreaker. All is polyester. After 5 minutes walking briskly I have always felt warm, except when in sleet. For my next Camino lightweight, truly waterproof gloves would be a BIG improvement.

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March 9, 2009

Villafranca del Biezro

Today Mayte and I began walking back up into the mountains, but now on the west of Ponferrada. It took a long while to cross and get out of the city. Next came endless acres of rolling vineyards for the famous (and delicious) Bierzo wine. It grew more and more difficult to find the Camino's yellow arrows which mark the route. After passing through the 'lost' town of Pieros, hot and exhausted we arrived here at Villafranca del Biezro.

Since the munipal albergue is closed we are staying in the truly unique, private albergue, Ave Felix. About 20 pilgrims are crowded into one of the dorms. Over many years this place has slowly evolved as has its reputation. Everyone seems to know NOT to drink the water nor eat here!

A nearby restaurant serving delicious food and wonderful Biezro wine is the Puerta del Pardon. I ate there happily on my last two Caminos. It is named after the famous door on the local Santiago chapel where pilgrims too ill to continue once were given repentance. Unfortunately the restaurant is closed on Monday and today is Monday. We need to find an alternative fast!

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March 10, 2009

Ruitelan

Today was another beautiful one hiking in bright sunshine up the Valcarce River valley to this tiny village, Ruitelan. After last night's crowded conditions such a small albergue is a haven of cleanliness and peace.

Called Pequeno Potala it is run by two gracious Spanish Buddist men. A small bell tinkles when you enter. Soothing music is playing in the background. The food is copious and delicious. Massages are available. Six other pilgrims and I are enjoying this special spot.

Some are repacking in order to be ready early tomorrow. Always curious how others do it, I'm a 'bag lady'. Separate categories of my kit, ie. clothes, toiletries, sandals and sleeping bag travel in sturdy plastic bags within the backpack. Thus all is relatively waterproof as well as easier to locate than if 'lost' within the pack. For pure aesthetic pleasure the opaque plastic bags are colored burgundy red. They are simple book bags from Gagliani, the oldest international bookstore in Paris. Surely they would be surprised with their bags reuse as a matched set of Camino luggage!

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March 11, 2009

O Cebriero

After breakfast today Mayte and I began the long, hard walk up to O Cebriero. It took us about 6 hours to arrive at the top. What a view! I believe we could even glimpse the distant sea.

Long ago I realized that the usual footpath was far too steep for me, so I walk on the old N VI highway. It is longer, but a gentler way. However, I always wear my backpack while many pilgrims send their pack up in a taxi. To each his own! What matters is to DO IT!

This is another mystic and mythic stop on the Camino. During the middle ages due to the strong faith of one simple parishoner the wine and bread of the mass are said to have truly changed into Christ's blood and flesh. The church became famous and royalty sent priceless gifts. Today this small church is kept immaculate; it and the tiny village form a protected historic site.

Late last century a recent priest, Elas Valña, was one of the three religious 're-founders' of the Camino. He is buried in the adjacent cemetery; many plaques and stones commemorate him and his work.

As I write sitting in the almost luxurious comfort of this newly renovated albergue the stars are shining above the mountains, mountains which Valña deeply loved.
How and what might he feel in summer when hoards of casual tourists tramp along 'his' path?

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March 12, 2009

Triacastela

Today Mayte and I left O Cebreiro and started walking further into the province of Galicia. It was another glorious sunny day, the kind you dream about.

We stopped for a welcome second breakfast at the bar atop the Alto de Poio, the last high mountain pass of the Camino. The owner and her daughter recognized me from past Caminos. One year I stayed with them when the nearby albergue was closed. It is always a pleasure to be greated as an old friend, but especially so on the Camino!

After the Alto the route descended through a series of switchbacks and easy tree-lined paths down to Triacastela. Now the scenery has changed; low stone walls divide vast meadows into smaller plots.

Tired and extremely rosey from the almost hot sun we staggered into town.
It was a pleasant surprise to find a Spanish translation of Rudyard Kipling's famous poem "If" prominantly posted in the main square. Although written to inspire men to fight during World War One, many of the verses are appropriate for the Camino or even ordinary situations.

Tonight we two are the only pilgrims in a pleasant private albergue, Le Berso do Camino, where I have stayed 3 times. All is spotless. Now for a HOT shower and sleep!

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March 15, 2009

Ferreios

For the past 3 days Mayte and I have been almost continually descending through a picturesque spring landscape mixing
narrow paths, low stone walls, melodious brooks, frolicking newborn animals, birdsong, huge trees, tiny wildflowers, cold morning fog and hot mid-day sun. What a wonderful brew!

We passed through Samos and saw the exterior of the imposing Benedictine abbey. After peeking inside the albergue, which I remember as being frigid a few Caminos ago, we didn't stay.

Next came Sarria. The municipal albergue has recently been renovated and looked great with stone interior walls and slate floors. However, it was far too crowded for comfort. We stayed further up the historic hill in a private albergue, O Durnimento where I stayed before. Very clean and very comfortable with fresh duvets on the beds, it was almost empty.

Today Mayte decided to try walking alone; I'll certainly miss her companionship. Tonight I am in Ferreios exactly 100 k from Santiago! This is a perfect small albergue with only 22 beds amidst a beautiful landscape. Nearby down the hill next to the local church is a very good and very friendly restaurant/bar, Meson Mirabilos. My truly delicious Sunday lunch was fresh clam soup, breaded veal cutlet with cream sauce, cheese tart, thick country bread, water, wine and coffee for 10 euros! What a bargain! (As I wrote in my 2008 blog this is NOT the place next to the albergue which is neither friendly nor good.)

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March 17, 2009

Palas de Rei

Summer has arrived! Yesterday and today were really hot! Early morning fog west of Sarria evolved by noon into brilliant sunshine. Sweat dripped off my face as I staggered into the tiny settlement of Gonzar.

Although there was a municipal albergue I stayed in a very comfortable private one, Casa Garcia, which also served meals. It was a very attractive rehabilitation of old stone farm buildings. All the floors were black slate. Brownstone was the basic material of the walls so the mortar was tinted beige with ocher. Natural wood bunks had crisp white cotton SHEETS topped with camel colored polar blankets. No brilliant color broke the subtle aesthetics. What a pleasant surprise.

After another beautiful hot walk through pine forests and tiny villages tonight I am just east of Palas de Rei in a spots complex. The is a new albergue where I also stayed last year. It is quite crowded with Spanish pilgrims dashing to Santiago. Here one gets a thin paper cover for the mattress, but it doesn't really fit and slides about. However, the nearby restaurant, La Cabana, has excellant food. Now to sleep.

...Later in photo Comments Saturn-es wrote ...seria un honor ter a tua foto engadida ao grupo/it would be an honour to have your photo added to the Galicia group. Blopsmen said ...This is magic! Lovely image. Milutxo wrote...Fantasmas en la niebla, preciosa foto!!

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March 19, 2009

Arzua

It has been exceptionally hot for the past two days! Some pilgrims are wearing amazing combinations of clothing in order to cope, ie wet tee shirts as sun hats! This morning 2 German girls and I got up very early in order to be on the Camino by 8 am to try to escape the midday heat! What a difference from 2 months ago at St Jean Pied de Porte when all was still dark (and cold) at 8 in the morning!

Now the Camino has become a narrow forest path crossing numerous hills covered with endless groves of tall eucalyptus trees. At least there is some shade!

Last night in the Melide albergue was not the best; about 12 pilgrims were jammed into one airless small dorm. For some unknown reason the heating was also on full blast! The effect was tropical so I moved into the spacious, unheated lounge and unrolled my sleeping bag across 4 chairs. It was firm, but I slept.

Tonight in the Arzua albergue is very clean and comfortable. I have always enjoyed staying here; it is a most handsome rehabilitation. Best of all the showers are spacious, hot and spray you and not the walls! Bliss.

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March 22, 2009

Santiago

Ouf! Wow! Eureka!
In glorious sunshine after morning fog I arrived in Santiago yesterday! Weeping with mixed emotions I received my fifth Compostella. While checking the records the polyglot clerk smiled and whispered "See you again next year". ...May it be.

Re-entry seems difficult already! It was a jolt to suddenly hear a jet landing at Lavacolla airport while walking the last kilometers through the eucalyptus. Named for the nearby place where during the Middle Ages pilgrims washed before entering the cathedral city today time zones collide here; the hidden ghosts and weight of history within the forest versus contemporary reality on the landing strip!

I will be in Santiago for another night before continuing on to the sea at Finisterra. Over the years I have always enjoyed staying at the hostal Libredon Barbantes in the shadow of the cathedral. My tiny private room in the attic with shower and toilet is a bargain at 23 euros a night. From the velux window in the roof you can see the cathedral towers. More importantly you can hear the giant bells strike the hours. I love it and feel like Quasimodo at Notre Dame. Now this is MY cathedral!

Another spot which is always a pleasure is the Cafe Casino on the rua Vilar. It has existed since 1873. They do breakfast, drinks and a very good, almost elegant, daily lunch for 10 euros. The old-fashioned decor (but with WiFi) reminds me of the Algonquin in NYC. ...Now for a siesta with bells.

...Later in Comments Kerry Bail wrote...
Congratulations Meredith. I have watched/read your journey and cheered you on from Melbourne. Your are an inspiration.

Gerry said...Well done Meredith. Delighted to hear you made it safe and sound. You're an inspiraton to us all. Same time next year?

and in photo Comments Don Pedro de Carrion de los Condes said Great!

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March 27, 2009

Finisterre

Since Monday, March 23, I have been slowly walking towards the sea and today reached landsend at Finisterre, kilometer 0. The weather continues to be magnificent and there have been several new long distance walkers.

Mentally I was saying adieu to 'my' Camino. This week each step taken, each hill climbed was very special for being close to the last.

Going along I silently gave thanks for all that has passed during these nine weeks of walking; for my own extraordinary good luck, growing strength and intense determination to endure, for strangers' gracious offers of help and other kindnesses, and for fellow pilgrims' shared conversations and meals. What a mixture!

Of course I hope for another Camino in 2010 (during my 71st year!), but if that can not be at least these precious memories shall endure as long as I. ...

Ultreia!

...Later in Comments Liz (Australia) wrote...
...Wonderful effort. I have enjoyed your diary. Thanks for sharing it. It is inspiring me - I am 40 and starting my first Camino in September (and I know it will not be my last)

Karine et Belin from Dijon wrote ...Congratulation for this Camino, one more! See you again in 2010!

and Stine wrote ...Hi,Lovely to find your blog and to know that you arrived safely in Finesterra. Funny how you write exactly the way you speak, it is almost as if you are in the room with me when I read your blog!I am very glad to have met you and wish you all the best!

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