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Camino 9 - 2013

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October 8, 2013

Thankfully continuing again


From 2004 through 2012 I have walked the Camino Frances in its entirety eight times.

Each pilgrimage developed into a rich mix of old friends and new, fickleness of weather, stamina and health and, most importantly, philosophical musings and personal thanksgiving for each day lived.

Subsequently providing information about the Camino has become a particular pleasure whether talking with another pilgrim or writing alone for an unknown reader

Although age and time will inevitably take their toll, hopefully my personal memories will endure; sentimentally I shall always wear a shell. Now at 74 what matters most is to continue!

Thus, thankful, respectful and humble, but still curious and with an ever eager heart I will walk again the Camino Frances starting October 15.

Why do I do this? My laconic answer is from Pascal's Pensées "le cœur a ses raisons que la raison ne connaît pas/ the heart has its reasons, of which reason knows nothing."

Ultreia!


.....Later in Comments



.......Laurie wrote..It is a real treat for me to be able to follow along from afar. I am looking forward to every step! Buen camino and many abrazos

.......Brigit mentioned.. I will be following your Camino exploits...best to you!

.......Aldy remarked..I so appreciate your energy, your words and your attitude. Buen Camino!

.......JohnMcM..noted This is excellent news and whilst so many have learned from you, been given succor, hope and motivation through your posts there is a group of lucky pilgrims yet to be identified who will be on The Way at the same time as you who will find a friend, fellow pilgrim and mentor to help them on their way. Buen Camino my digital friend.



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October 15, 2013

Following Camino arrows


First my sincere thanks to all the many past guests at our b&b, old friends, readers of my blogs and pilgrim Forum members who have kindly sent me good wishes for this my 9th camino. One Forum member met my train with a welcoming bottle of the most delicious wine! What a gracious gesture; new pilgrim friends and I happily shared it last night at the municipal albergue in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port.

It is always hard to switch gears and actually set off; each time what to then has only been an immagined dream suddenly becomes vibrant reality as I step aboard the train. Bill waves goodbye and suddenly I am alone in a new physical and mental space. Solo a new adventure then slowly unfolds from home to Paris, to Bayonne, and then into the Pyrenees.

For me the actual Camino Frances could ONLY truly begin at Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, the picturesque Basque mountain town in the French Pyrenees. Excitement starts while riding there on the local train from Bayonne. Once arrived after hoisting my pack, walking uphill and through the old fortress walls to the 39 rue de la Citadelle office of the welcoming Amis du Chemin de St Jacques to obtain my Credential and bunk, I walk on. New Camino arrows now lead directly to number 55, the comfortable municipal albergue. Mme Jeannine, the tireless hospitalera greets all and serendipity prevails.

Every day from now on there will be further arrows to follow.


.....Later in Comments



.......Rachael from Oz wished..Buen Camino!

.......Dorothy remarked..I stand in awe of your resolve and enthusiasm for your next walk, wish you all the best and will be with you in spirit.

.......Jan and Geoff wrote..May the forces be with you. Our very best wishes for your journey.

.......Raphaële mentioned..The children reminded me of the start of your 9th camino, and are eager to read your daily adventures. We wish you a safe but thrilling journey.

.......Niki said..You are a real inspiration. I thought of you as you sat at Mme Jeannine's table to start your 9th camino. Do you always wear the same shell? Mine still hangs on my entrance door and I like to think that it brings me good luck. Buen Camino!

.......Jan and Chris noted .. Good luck with your 9th Camino, we will keep up with your blog.




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October 18, 2013

Up to Roncesvalles


Yesterday was the first long HARD slog of this camino. Leaving Valcarlos as dawn broke at 8am it took me 5 hours to slowly climb up to the Ibaneta pass, altitude 1060 meters. This once was THE medieval route through the Pyrenees with a very early pilgrim hospice at the pass; today a small modern chapel marks the spot.

As past pilgrim multitudes have done I, too, joyfully shouted my thanks when cresting the pass and then weeping in exhausted relief slowly 'floated' into the historic Roncesvalles monastery complex which has sheltered pilgrims since the eleventh century. Recently, however, much has changed; a state-of-the-art albergue housing more than 100 pilgrims was created in a renovated 18th century wing. Sleek bunks are arranged in nooks for four. My fellow nook-mates were Swiss, German and Australian. Last night we four joined other pilgrims for mass and the traditional pilgrim benediction. May we all walk in peace.


.....Later in Comments



.......TerrieK noted...Well done Meredith! Jeff and I are reading your blog! Love hearing about your adventure! Stay safe and look forward to the next one!



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October 20, 2013

Daily Bread


Much has settled now for my long haul west to Santiago and beyond. Daily walking seems easier if not yet truly easy and the pack on my back feels quite normal. I don't carry much kit, only 6.5 kilos, but an important part of what I do carry is basic food; tea bags, firm cheese, sausage and packets which make a single cup of soup. With these basics as long as an albergue has a kitchen for pilgrim use, I need not worry about finding any open restaurant.

However these past two nights both private albergues where I stayed offered delicious meals. First in Bizkaret, where I sought r&r post-Roncesvalles a new place, Curazon Puro, run by a gracious young couple provided a three course supper which was most savory with their native Hungarian spices. Last night at El Palo in Zubiri the delicious meal was served per usual in the rustic dining room beneath this evocative neo-Medieval mural of 'breadmen'. We pilgrims, too, ate bread, but also salad, soup, fish and a yummy lemon mousse. All fuel for today's stretch of the camino.

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October 22, 2013

Rest for the weary


Just one week ago when the train arrived at SJPdP crossing the Pyrenees lay ahead. Today slightly west of Pamplona in rain and wind I climbed up the infamous Alto de Perdon, successfully slid down the west side across muddied scree and now the Pyrenees are past. Ouf!

Trudging along during this past week the actual topography and weather always dominated my immediate reactions. Was the Camino going uphill or steeply down? Crossing water? How thick was the mud? Could I see through the rain? What was the weather forecast? When might I sit? Nevertheless I still try to take it as it comes enjoying the good and bearing the bad. After all this is life. Thankful at the end of each day for simple shelter, a bed (preferably a bottom bunk for me), working toilet, hot shower, something to eat and if possible good companionship.

Pleasant chance encounters and instant friendships are part of the Camino's serendipity! We pilgrims share our journeys, hopes and fears. We may stop at the same bar for a coffee and sleep in the same co-ed dorm but in no sense do we move as a single force! Each of us creates a particular pattern moving along. Thus the Camino is composed of all these pilgrims' patterns; the multitude of these individual units together form a whole. Carpe diem!

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October 23, 2013

Passing by paradise


Of course the world is filled with wonderful treasures many of which as an architectural historian I have had the professional privilege and personal pleasure to visit. However, for me the Santa Maria de Eunate church is the purest perfection, located at the western end of the Camino Argonese near where it joins the Camino Frances at Puente La Reina.

This small circular church within an octagonal cloister was built by unknown craftsmen one thousand years ago. Nestled in an natural bowl the ocher stones blend with rolling nearby fields now planted with corn and fennel. Here one senses the eternal peace of paradise. May such perfection continue for another thousand years.

To read/see more of this extraordinary place and of several memorable nights I was graciously sheltered in the adjacent albergue (unfortunately no longer open) click my Camino Gazetteer link to the left of this post and once it loads click Eunate.


.....Later in Comments



.......Mike and Elona wrote..Traveling with you in spirit once again, Meredith!



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October 25, 2013

Evolving Estella


Arrival before noon in Estella this morning was slightly soggy from slogging through drizzle. Since the Municipal Albergue would open at 2pm I continued along the Calle La Rua to the welcoming (and dry!) Tourist Office and collapsed in a comfy chair. What bliss! After thirty minutes silent rest, the drizzle ceased so I left my pack and set off to re-explore this continually evolving historic artisan area parallel to the camino.

Perched on a nearby limestone cliff is the 13th century church San Pedro de La Rua: today you take a sleek contemporary elevator open 24/7 up to view into the impressive Romanesque cloister! This stylistic mixed urban combo is a great success. Another nearby successful combo is the daily menu/menu de dia offered at the La Aljama bar at 8 Calle La Rua. Three fresh courses with a glass of wine for 11 euros: the trout stuffed with ham was most delicious! Now for a siesta.

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October 28, 2013

Waving as we pass


Although I do get weary I love to walk! Hearing the continual crunch of my footsteps is very reassuring. I know that I can do it as long as I have enough energy. Today's 18 k from Los Arcos to Viana via Torres del Rio over hilltops and across harvested vineyards was a 'test' which I passed; tonight I am justly tired but not pooped.

As always it is a GREAT pleasure to arrive at a welcoming albergue, take a HOT shower, chat with other pilgrims (only 5 so far) and collapse in clean comfort on a bottom bunk ever thankful for the continued strength to experience this extraordinary joy of another Camino day. BLISS!

Although I usually walk alone I hardly ever feel lonely. Much of each day is spent in a chaotic mental mix of personal thanksgiving, worry over the weather or my gut, projected renovation/restoration of a multitude of wayside structures and, the far more social act of simply waving to those that pass by. These include other pilgrims, of course, but also dog walkers, police, bikers, farmers and especially lorry drivers. Such waves exchanged are silent gestures of our shared humanity.


.....Later in Comments



.......Bill said..So well expressed. So you. A joy to read.

.......Laurie remarked..This is really a brilliant post (and I'm not British so I don't say "brilliant" very often). You have captured so much of the essence of the Camino for me in these few words and make me long to get back.Wishing you godspeed and looking forward to many more posts, buen camino my friend.

.......Clare noted..That's an interesting observations - that the pilgrim participates in the life along the camino, simply by waving. I must remember that when I walk again, maybe even locally!

.......Kialoa3 wrote..You continue to bless me and many other pilgrims with your wisdom, keen insights, and kind heart. As you walk each footfall is a gift, every kilometer offers a unique perspective, each day closes with the simple joy of purpose embracing grace. Buen camino.



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October 31, 2013

Fellow travellers


Every day brings new experiences on the camino; each morning you never can be truly certain of what might occur as time passes, with whom you will be and where you might stop. All is just the 'luck of the draw', ie happenstance. Earlier this morning bouncing along alone towards Najera through acres of recently harvested Rioja vineyards in the cold early morning air (0 Celsius!) under an ice blue sky all was glorious; the type of morning you dream about for walking.

I had planned to stop at my favorite 'hidden' hilltop nook on that Ventosa-Najera stretch to sit and rest in the sun while eating a biscuit or two. When I arrived two guys were already seated in 'my nook' their backs to the path; nary a pack was visible. Were they 'woodsmen' (anxiously I recalled dystopian movie scenes) or pilgrims? Slowly I walked a few meters further; they saw me as I with RELIEF spoted their pilgrim shells and we three shouted 'Hola!' simultaneously.

Charming and most gracious they offered me delicious HOT tea brewed on a primus stove; we chatted while sipping tea and enjoying the biscuits. From Germany and Holland these two guys had met while walking; now they were sharing the way. After Santiago they planned to walk south to Cadiz and cross to North Africa for the winter. After our teatime was finished we shook hands and continued on our mutual ways;I wish them both a safe journey.

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November 2, 2013

Historic chickens


Yesterday walking slowly up from Najera 16 k to Santo Domingo de la Calzada was cold and VERY tiring so I asked to stay two nights here in the local confraternity's Casa del Santo albergue in order to simply rest today. Domingo after whom the town is named was an 11th century hermit who devoted his life to improving the local pilgrimage route, ie. the calzada. Buried here, he later became a saint and the village took his name. Due to a later medieval local legend of a young pilgrim's life being saved through the assistance of immortal chickens Saint Domingo himself is usually depicted accompanied by such birds.

There is an historic coop complete with chickens (changed every two weeks!) within the cathedral and over time chickens have become THE symbol of the town. In the 12th century the local confraternity was formed to help and host pilgrims as they still do today. Recently this confraternity has opened a splendid new albergue adjacent to their medieval headquarters. In the common back garden is this new contemporary chicken coop filled with the future 'church coop choir'; before dawn this morning their lively chorus announced another new day to all the dorm!


.....Later in Comments



.......Bill wrote..Interesting history. Is there a rooster? And an egg collector?



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November 5, 2013

Cozy Comfort


After the hustle and bustle of the Santo Domingo albergue which included a Swiss pilgrim who in a stupor fell from his top bunk as well as pelitons of Korean bikers dashing to Santiago it was, as always, most special to for me to enter once again the door of the Granon parish albergue and share the welcoming cozy intimate comfort.

We seven pilgrims relaxed, rested and reflected together; we also ATE quantities of delicious food lovingly prepared by our gracious host. When dusk fell and outside the wind began to howl inside the lit lamps and candles seemed to shine with the glimmer of true hospitality, grace and caritas.

Might it always be so.


.....Later in Comments



.......Kialoa3 said..It sounds absolutely perfect. Wishing you strength, good health, and much happiness as you tick off the kilometers in the days ahead.



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November 7, 2013

Into the zone


For the past few days I have been walking long stretches alone through dense groves of tall fern, holm oak and pine. The camino path from Villamayor to Ages via the San Juan Ortega monastery crosses a Narnia-like wood which in yesterday's incessant drizzle seemed almost bewitched.

Yet happily for me while tramping through that wood as the sun rose I sensed that special moment when everything 'clicked'. Then I realized that this was, indeed, MY way and that all was and would be good. Perhaps such secular transcendence felt while walking might be akin to what runners call 'the zone'. Your body can handle the task while your spirit glows with the effort. Neither easy, nor impossible; all simply is. Thus, you continue.

And so today I walked 26 k in 6 hours into Burgos carrying, as always, my full pack. Not bad for 74 and only 3 weeks since the exhaustion of Ibaneta! Hope my zone continues.


.....Later in Comments



.......Laurie wrote..Beautiful post -- with so few words you hit the nail on the head. Buen camino.



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November 10, 2013

There's a long,long trail...


For the past two days I have been following the lonely ocher camino trail as it winds across these seemingly endless hills in the middle of the vast open space west of Burgos known as the Meseta. Tonight I am in Hontanas. Other pilgrims are German, French, Italian, and British; with me as the token American we all represent the major belligerent nations of WW1.

Tomorrow many of us will mentally commemorate the Armistice which ended that 4 year slaughter in 1918 at 11am on the 11 day of the 11th month. Yet tonight as the sun set together we sat and quietly sang from memory these old WW1 marching lyrics of hope and longing and, thus, emotionally spanned a century.

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November 14, 2013

Golden days


Weather these last few days has been splendid for walking with clear blue skies, no wind and an often lush landscape of shimmering, golden leaved trees crossing the rolling Meseta. However, it IS getting colder; mornings are frosty and I'm glad that I have my usual thermals, plus fleece hat, scarf and gloves. My polyester/silk sleeping bag liner has always been GREAT for being snug at night; it weighs little, but it doubles the warmth of the bag.

Now that it is colder fewer pilgrims are on the camino; many who are still walking have been for several months having begun midsummer in distant Germany or Poland. Happily most like me have the luxury of unlimited time to complete their camino. It would be so sad to have to rush along the route or even bus ahead in order to keep to some preset timetable. Part of camino pleasure is savoring each moment; how could you savor such a rush? Then these precious golden days would just be dross.


.....Later in Comments



.......John Snow remarked..Beautiful picture and wonderful words. You provide all of us who are following you with a great vicarious experience.

.......Donald noted..I have enjoyed following your commentary. The photo from 14 November looks like the road into Castrojeriz but you are obviously farther along than that at this point. Take care.

.......Annakappa wrote..I'm enjoying following your Blog! I can almost see every step, view, turn in the road that you make! What a pleasure to walk ' out of season' it must be. Must get back to you on that! Buen Camino!



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November 17, 2013

Candid camera


Pleasant chance encounters and instant friendships are part of the camino's serendipity; we pilgrims's share the path and often advice. While walking towards Itero de Vega this week I met an Korean photographer who was truly pooped. She had been hired to film the solitude of long distance walkers. Setting off unprepared, trying to cover 30k a day, carrying more than 8 kilos in her pack plus a heavy expensive camera and a notebook computer, she was overloaded and well out of her comfort zone!

Although she really needed a sherpa for three days I served as her shepherd. We stayed in smaller albergues, ate well, walked slowly 20k max per day, took long siestas and laughed a lot. She particularly enjoyed shooting this 'art brut' pilgrim sculpture which I first saw last year lost in a meadow near Villarmentaro de Campos.

Unhappily our easy way was cut short since she was due in Leon when we were still 80k away. Hence she caught the bus to get back on schedule. Perhaps she will find a sherpa so that she can move and shoot with greater ease. I wish her well and look forward to seeing her final candid photos.


.....Later in Comments



.......Clare wrote.. I'm following your journey with pleasure. When I first saw the photo, I thought "Wow, that MM has good knees if she can squat like that to take a picture!" I felt reassured to learn it wasn't you. (Why? Just my own insecurities showing!)



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November 19, 2013

Two bridges and two angels


Each time that I have walked the Camino Frances one section that I have particularly dreaded and even feared involves crossing varied bridges just before entering Leon. In the past we pilgrims walked on a narrow medieval bridge at Villarente in frightening competition with on-coming contemporary lorry traffic. The traffic usually won. Earlier this year a dedicated pedestrian-only bridge was added. What a relief it was today to gently stroll along this elegant wooden way without fearing being hit or run over!

Closer to Leon another pedestrian bridge but of metal spans high above several lanes of rushing highway traffic and seems to sway in the wind. For much of last night I worried about re-doing this and awoke determined but frightened. Since many pilgrims take a bus into the city I was alone and nervous most of the route. Happily, however, at the EXACT moment when I needed much moral support to put my foot on that first metal step and move a charming octogenarian French couple appeared and chatting nonchalantly we three crossed the bridge as if we all had wings.

I'm VERY glad that these bridges have now been crossed!

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November 23, 2013

All you need is love


I prefer remote camino paths with stops in tiny villages and not large urban areas; off the urban grid the landscape appears timeless and local hospitality is more sincere. At times even true perfection can be savored.

Leaving the western suburbs of Leon I followed the alternative camino via Villar de Mezarife and on to Hospital de Orbigo. It was soothing to escape the N120 highway noise and sprawl while crossing peaceful moors often planted with sugar beet or corn. However, bitter cold and constant wind made walking most difficult.

Thus at Hospital de Orbigo I once again opted for the HEATED private Albergue Verde. When I entered their gate the hosts greeted me by name! As before all was SO very comfortable; clinically clean showers were powerful and hot while fresh linens covered the comfy bunks. Vegetables from the surrounding organic garden were prepared by the charming hospitalera for a most delicious and copious communal dinner. Here all was warmly offered us pilgrims in sincerity and true caritas.

Continuing towards Astorga on the inland path after Santibanez de Valdeiglesias and before the Cruz de Santo Toribo is another place of perfection, the Casa de los Dioses. Here on a vast plain with sweeping vistas west toward the last camino peaks a man named David has set up a simple pilgrim oasis. Sheltered by a vast adobe barn partly covered with vibrant graffiti David offers a welcome seat and coffee, tea, juices, fruits and cookies to all who pass. All that he so willingly provides he has carried from the nearest village for there is neither water nor garden here. However what is most plentiful at both David's and the Verde is a special spirit and unconditional, selfless love.


.....Later in Comments



.......Bill mentioned..This blog entry is really special. The photo too. Sorry not to see David though. I'm glad you chose the heated albergue.



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November 26, 2013

How time goes by


Tomorrow begins my 7th week of walking; most camino effort seems very 'normal' now. Usually rising at 7:30, I dress and pack in the dark so not to bother others still sleeping in the dorm. Breakfast is quick and shortly after dawn I start to walk.

Now that the weather is cold I like to pause after 2 hours or so for a welcome second cup of HOT coffee drunk SEATED in a HEATED wayside bar. A further 3 or 4 hours walking and I stop for the day. After checking in at the local (hopefully open) pilgrim albergue I find and eat a BIG hot lunch often in a spot where I've eaten before. Late in the afternoon it's shower time followed by a siesta. Generally I don't eat dinner unless it's communal and often my siesta is a direct prelude to bedtime since I DO get weary !

However on the camino there is little certainty; what may once have been need not always be. That's the charm of surprise.Two days ago upon arrival in the frigid mountain town Rabanal del Camino I had planned as usual to stay in the large private Albergue de Pilar. However, the albergue was shut since Pilar was taking a break. At the door Pilar's mother, who is my age, graciously hugged me as a close family friend and kindly offered a tiny WARM guest room with FLANNEL sheets and private bath. What unplanned cozy luxury it was!! Every moment spent resting there was double pleasure.

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November 30, 2013

Rigors


Ever since El Acebo I have been thinking about the rigors of this last mountainous stretch of the Camino. Trudging down to Ponferrada early Tuesday, up to Villafranca on Wednesday, to Ruitelan Thursday and then up to the mythic village of O Cebreiro yesterday were four HARD tiring slogs across multitudes of vineyards in dazzling sunshine. Each afternoon it was a GREAT relief to arrive at my destination, eat, shower and finally settle down for the night.

Staying in Ruitelan at the Pequeno Portala refugio has always been a true pleasure for me. On Thursday night one other pilgrim also stayed there (and he did only because I had said it was great). As usual Carlos, one of the hospitaleros, prepared a delicious copious dinner. Later soft duvets helped make our bunks warm and cosy while outside it was a cold -5 Celsius.

Yesterday within 5 hours I climbed up to O Cebreiro by following a combination of both the bicycle route and the footpath. Of course this was a BIG effort, but successful! Tears of joy streamed down my cheeks when at last I entered the tiny village church. Legends and the history of this very special spot were mixed in my thoughts along with sincere personal thanks for having made it so far. Indeed, I was overwhelmed.

To read/see more of this special place, its legends and history click my Camino Gazetteer link to the left and once it loads click O Cebreiro.

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December 3, 2013

Entering Galicia


Now I have walked down and out of the high mountains and am crossing the green and gently rolling fields of Galicia; Santiago is ALMOST in sight on the western horizon.The weather continues to be splendid. Each day by mid morning is sunny and dry with no wind so that walking is a great pleasure. Nights are COLD, however, so I wear my hat to bed looking like Goldilock's grandma. Ice often coats the early morning path and can be slickly treacherous in dim light.

While slowly walking these last 100k towards Santiago I plan to stay in several small rural albergues which are run by the ACAG, ie the government of Galicia. Slightly off the beaten track or at least not at one of the often published 'official' halts these are well maintained and generally found in recently renovated historic buildings with original details, interesting roofs/ceilings, good heat and hot showers. At 6€ per bunk they are a GREAT bargain. Yesterday I was in Ferreiros and tonight in Hospital de la Cruz; only 3 of us so far.


.....Later in Comments



.......Meg said..Yesterday I had a very hard day. Just before bed I thought, "I know, I'll find out how far Margaret has traveled on the Camino and what has happened to her in the last few days." I enjoyed reading your last three posts very much. When I was done I went into the kitchen where my husband said, "Whatever you've been doing it's certainly calmed you down." Just thought you might want to know that the sharing of your journey had that effect on me! I truly love experiencing the Camino again through your eyes. Thank you!



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December 5, 2013

And the days dwindle down


Only eight weeks ago I walked past this marker in the Saint Jean Pied de Port pavement eager to begin again and now my 9th camino is coming to its end. For me this has actually been three concurrent journeys - looking back into historic time at the cultural heritage along this beloved pilgrimage route, traversing on foot contemporary northern Spain east to west, and a deeper discovery of myself.

Walking alone has required constant adaptation to changing weather and varied terrain while at times overcoming irrational (?) fears of crossing high bridges or descending slippery scree. Nevertheless as always I have relearned the importance of personal tenacity and endurance. Those long slogs up the Ibaneta pass or into the cities of Burgos and Leon seemed endless. However I did arrive pooped, but walking upright and always carrying my full pack thinking like Churchill after Dunkirk I WILL go on to the end.

On a happier note serendipity has brought much daily joy such as viewing alone within a silent wood the vivid colors of an early winter sunrise or sharing triumphant laughter with a new camino friend after we successfully crested O Cebreiro. Most importantly I have relearned the necessity for sincerity in all our interactions and been privileged to experience the overwhelming power of true caritas, that special spirit of unconditional selfless love towards others as offered by some to many along the camino.

May we all be so caring and generous.


.....Later in Comments



......Rachael said..I've been reading every post, but not commenting. HAVE TO for this one though. Your last two sentences filled me with warmth and strength - just thinking of the images you portrayed. Thanks.

......Laurie wrote..Like Rachael, I've read every post and have marveled at how your words convey so much, to people of all ages and all backgrounds and all attitudes about the Camino. Your blog, each and every post, leaves us with no doubt about the answer to the age old question -- why walk the Camino?



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December 8, 2013

At last!


Dawn was frigid this morning; frozen vegetation lining the camino path sparkled like crystal as the sun rose. It was a perfect winter morning for walking the last 20k into Santiago de Compostela and up the hill to the cathedral.

Thus, my 9th Camino Frances is now complete after walking for two months! Ouf! Weary but thrilled I am sincerely thankful that I made it!! My bones may be the same but much else seems configured differently from how I set out from Saint Jean Pied de Port.

All of us who walk to Santiago whatever our reasons or beliefs must share similar quickened emotions upon arrival; tonight mine are a complex mix of euphoria and sadness. The weight of history here is so great with the accumulated layers of centuries, both visible and invisible. One can see much and also feel or imagine even more such as hoards of past pilgrims following the same timeless route towards the cathedral throughout the centuries.

When at last I arrived this afternoon it was at the simple northeast corner. As always I put my hand on the ancient stone wall and weeping offered silent thanks for all that has been which enabled my camino. I then entered and sat quietly pondering within the great silent nave.


.....Later in Comments



.......Janet and John stated..May we be the first to congratulate you on finishing the Camino. We have followed your journey with interest. Our best to you.

.......Donald remarked.. Congratulations, I really enjoyed reading all of your posts. I hope to see you again in Bayonne next year.

.......Mike & Elona mailed..Félicitations!

.......KiwiNomad wrote.. Congratulations on the successful end to a journey that always has both difficulties and joys. There is something about the pull that Santiago exerts. I am glad you had the chance to know it again.

.......Anne noted..Well done! I have so enjoyed following you on your Blog. Enjoy your time in Santiago!

.......Fairy G said..Congratulations! Maybe I will meet you next year on your 10th walk.



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December 13, 2013

Red in the morning


Early Tuesday while crossing the empty Plaza Obradoiro in Santiago and passing the immense cathedral, as always, I silently vowed to return once again on foot (same time next year?). After walking to Negreira late that afternoon I arrived at the ACAG albergue which was recently renovated and has only 20 beds (not bunks) plus great HEAT; six other pilgrims and I shared the cozy space.

Brilliant red dawn sky next morning unfortunately forecast the worsening weather to come. Red in the morning sailors take warning; indeed! Pouring rain and WET walking became the daily norm as I slowly trudged west toward the sea at Muxia.

Walking over rolling hills and down into Olveiroa was easy; although along this stretch on a clear day you can see far and wide Thursday the dark, heavy clouds clustered on the horizon produced torrential rain and wind. When I arrived soaked at the sleek new Dumbria albergue, the helpful hospitalero suggested that I lay everything wet on the heated floor. Since I was the only pilgrim this was easy to do. By morning all was dry and ready to wear for my last walking day (and another wet one) out to Muxia and the immense rocks along the coast. After a long, hard, wet slog often on remote forest paths once in Muxia the sky cleared as I finally looked west over the endless sea at the true end of my path.

This ninth camino has been another incomparable adventure; I loved it all! As time goes by and takes its toll may I always remember these precious days. Wherever I might be I shall forever 'wear' a pilgrim shell.

Thanks for sharing my memories and for all your good wishes and kind comments!

Ultreia!


.....Later in Comments



.......Dorothy wrote.. I wish I were there at the true end to say "Well Done!". I am sure you and Bill will take some well deserved time off to rest, recuperate, and just be. Congratulations on a wonderful journey. I salute your spirit.

.......Cathie Therese said..This is wonderful to read Margaret. Congratulations and thank you for your wisdom, encouragement and brilliant Camino spirit.

.......Tom mailed.. What an example you set for all of us! I, for one, am in awe of your accomplishments. Thank you for being you! I wish you all the best for many years to come.



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