Camino 3 - 2007

February 5, 2007

St Jean Pied de Port

Today I began my 3rd Camino with as usual mixed emotions of excitement and trepidation. Bill and I spent last night in our Paris apartment so that I could get to the TVG easily. My pack weighs 6.4 k without food. It was sad to say goodbye for the next 2 months. For a few hours on the train I felt "lost", but little by little I relaxed.

Once I arrived at St Jean Pied de Port and climbed up to the rue de La Citadelle the magic of the Camino prevailed. Mme Jeannine as always was most kind. She cooked me a simple meal and turned up the heat in my tiny room. I was the only pilgrim.


February 6, 2007


During an early breakfast with Mme Jeanine and two young Spanish men who had arrived in the night, Gendarmes came to warn us not to cross the mountain by path. Conditions were too dangerous. Instead we should follow the lanes. Just after dawn I set off alone walking in a heavy mist. After crossing the old French/Spanish border by noon I reached Valcarlos. Here I stopped at the tiny municipal albergue. Unadvertised and without any sign you must ask for the key in the Mayor's office next to the drugstore. There was only a tiny space heater but plenty of hot water for a welcome shower. Drinking many cups of tea I spent hours reading the same study of English landscape history that I had begun during an earlier Camino! The book was in the same spot as before. Again I was the only pilgrim. Snuggling in my sleeping bag I went to sleep early in order to keep warm.


February 7, 2007


Today I walked continually for 5 hours up the road to the famous monastery at Roncesvalles. Here pilgrims have been welcomed since the 11th century. Today at times there was sleet; patches of snow covered the fields. It was very cold! As I arrived exhausted on foot at Roncesvalles a tourist bus pulled up. Most of the fur clad passengers took my photo, a real pilgrim, through the bus windows! After eating a late Spanish lunch in one of the two inns I spent much of the afternoon visiting the splendid Romanesque church. It was wonderfully well heated! The small winter pilgrim albergue is also cozy. During the evening 4 Germans and 1 Norvegian arrived. We all shared introductions and hot drinks.


February 8, 2007


An exhausting day! Covered 26 k down from the mountains and crossed the river to Larrosoana. I ache all over! Walked with a young German guy named Gunter and woman named Nikola. Staying in a tiny municipal albergue with basically the same group of pilgrims as last night. No shops or resturant are available so we all pooled our rations for "dinner". I contributed cheese and sausage which tasted great with German black bread!


February 9, 2007

Cizur Menor

Another long, hard slog to the pleasant private Albergue Roncal in Cizur Menor west of Pamplona. At least there was sunshine! Ate two big meals to make up for yesterday. Unfortunately my feet are swollen. Am I trying to go too far too quickly?


February 10, 2007


Nikola and I walked off the Camino Frances on back roads and lanes to Obanos. We're staying in a b&b or Casa Rurale since the albergue is closed until spring. The weather was glorious with sun and clear blue sky. Unfortunately I had the "trots" in the middle of nowhere; what a mess! After a late lunch in a timeless, atmospheric cafe, Meson del Camino, in Eneriz we continued on the Camino Aragones towards the wonderful church at Eunate. Lost in the countryside this small, octagonal and Romanesque structure is a mythic place. The destinctive design may be based on the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem. Some year on a future Camino I must sleep at Eunate.


February 11, 2007

Puente la Reina

This has been a nice easy day of repose. Nikola and "strolled" to Puente la Reina in the Sunday morning sunshine. We attended mass at the historic Church of the Crucifix and wandered about town. It is good to relax in the pleasant albergue run by the Padres Reparadores. There are a few other pilgrims, all guys. Together we shared the warmth from the open fireplace and conversation.


February 12, 2007


We are exhausted. Thank goodness we took it easy yesterday because today was rough! Nikola and I walked 22 k up and down hills throuh rain and sun to get to Estella. On one slope near Eunea the mud was so thick and heavy that we had to pull each other up and along. We really needed all our strength! After a cold picnic facing the multi-lobed door of the Cirauqui church, we continued along an antique Roman route, lined with cypress trees and thankfully dry. We just ate dinner with a fellow pilgrim in a near-by bar. Now my feet hurt and I can hardly wait to sleep.


February 13, 2007

Los Arcos

Another exhausting trek in brilliant sunshine to Los Arcos. I could hardly move when I arrived at the comfortable private albergue, Casa de Austria. I feel better now after hot tea and homemade muffins! Niki and I visited the wine bodega and the handsome monastery at Irache early this morning. After passing the closed municipal albergue in Villamayor de Monjardin where I happily stayed before, we walked a further 12 k across endless fields to here. 21 k total.


February 14, 2007

Torres del Rio

Niki and I had an easy walk in lovely sunshine to Torres del Rio. We are staying in the same private albergue, Casa Maria, as I did in in 2004. It is a comfortable place with only one drawback. The showers and toilets, although modern and clean, are located outside off the open patio! Hence any night use will be a bit complicated. We had a nice lazy day with a long siesta after a couple of beers. An evening stroll finished our day.


February 15, 2007


Niki and I did 20 k in the sunshine to Logrono. We walked along highway 111 to avoid climbing through the infamous ravine named Mataburros or Burro Killer. My feet hurt enough! Just before Logrono we crossed the regional boundary out of Navarra into Rioja. This large municipal albergue is very pleasant; handsome Camino-themed art decorates the spaces and the staff are helpful and pleasant.


February 16, 2007


My legs hurt a log so I loosened my boots and decided to walk less each day for a bit. Unfortunately Niki is on a tighter timetable than I so she set off on her own. She is missed already! After slowly crossing urban Lograno I west proceeded through the huge recreational site and reservation nearby. Every city fireman/firewoman seemed to be out doing calesthenics and every senior taking a brisk walk as I slowly moved along. Eventually I stopped in Navarette. Since the municipal albergue was closed I stopped at the El Cantaro, a pleasant private one. My bunk was the same as last year, next to the radiator! No other pilgrims were there.


February 17, 2007


The sky was blue and the sunlight golden walking to Ventosa. Located slightly off the path I had always wanted to stay here, intrigued by the simple homemade sign. Arriving at the only bar in I drank a delicious thick hot chocolate; the real thing, not from a mix. When I went to pay a local had "covered it"! What a nice gesture. While waiting in the bar for the private albergue to open a German pilgrim joined me for lunch. We chatted about our journeys. He had just begun walking today and insisted on paying for lunch. Another gracious act ! (Perhaps I looked so exhausted that these men felt sorry for me!) We are the only pilgrims tonight at the albergue San Saturnio. This is a handsome renovation and very comfortable. I am so pleased to have stopped!


February 18, 2007


After Ventosa I plodded through cold rain and thick mud to Najera. My legs were better, but I had tummy problems. Twas ever thus! This is a large municipal albergue made from prefabricated units to hold 100 pilgrims; tonight there are only an older Spanish man and the hospitalero plus myself. After closing two years for restoration the impressive riverside monastery, Santa Maria la Real, now is reopened as a museum. It war begun in the 11th century and built from local red stone. Filled with dimly lit sculpture and tombs to me it seemed almost frightening to visit alone. What a relief to exit into daylight despite the rain!


February 19, 2007

Santa Domingo de la Calzada

Today was a long cold slog, but without wet mud. After passing the historic cross at Azofra and crossing many hills eventually I arrived at Santa Domingo de la Calzada. The sky was vivid blue and the sun bright; deep snow covered mountains to the south on my left. At Ciruena lunch at a wayside bar was delicious, hot and cheap. A crowd of construction workers from a nearby site helped me order and then watched me eat! Now I am in the same parish-run albergue next to the cathedral as before. The 3 other pilgrims are very polite young Spanish men lugging huge backpacks. Each is carrying far too much and apparently feels it.


February 20, 2007


After visiting the cathedral and hearing the famous chickens I walked an easy 6 k to Granon. This albergue within a tower of the church of San Juan Bautista is a remarkable stop. The door is always open with a sign which reads "Welcome pilgrim,make this your home".Each time I am here I want to stay forever! With the priest I climbed onto the roof to see the wide view. Tonight there are 3 other pilgrims and a French hospitalero. We shared a generous multicourse supper and sat talking together by the blazing fire as it rained outside. Just before bedtime all attended a prayer service in the church. The Romanesque baptismal font was gently lit while behind the altar the magnificent 16th century gilded retable was glowing. ... Truly memorable.


February 21, 2007


Sad at leaving Granon I walked along the winding,frost covered path under a milky sun. Atop a hill a tall signpost marked the boundary of the next province, Burgos. After 15 k crossing several hills and walking parallel to the highway I arrived at Belorado. This riverside town seems roughedged like a western movie set. Early in the afternoon I stopped at a private albergue which has internet. After a shower and long siesta my legs feel better. Hopefully I am stronger.


February 22, 2007

Villafranca Montes de Oca

Today was an easy 10k but with a cold wind to Villafranca Montes de Oca. After lunch at the local truck stop I went to the municipal albergue. Located in an old school, here too the door is always open. The local hospitalero comes by each evening. Choosing a bunk next to the radiator I remembered my adventures here during last year's heavy snowstorm (see Camino 2, February 25). A German pilgrim named Wilfried has just arrived. His backpack is huge, but apparently stuffed with food! He has kindly offered to cook supper for both of us.


February 23, 2007


After a breakfast of strong tea and good dark German bread Wilfred and I climbed up over the mountain, about 16 k. At times the path was steep and the forest dense, but we made it. Crossing this area was highly feared in the past due to wolves and a sinister reputation. The lovely San Juan de Ortega monastery which dates from the 12th century was closed. How lucky I had been to visit and stay there in 2004 during my first Camino! The famous garlic soup served following evening mass was also memorable. (see Camino 1, October 18, 2004) Tired and cold Wilfrid and I continued to Ages and the recent albergue San Rafael. The hot food, hot showers and heated floors were great!


February 24, 2007


Walked 20k mainly along the highway into Burgos. Met an interesting German couple; a policeman and a young offender. The youth was offered the choice between serving time or walking the Camino. The policeman serves as his mentor. We are all staying in a small private albergue above a tiny church in the center. All the furnishings are from Ikea! After visiting the splendid cathedral I ate a good, but pricey, dinner alone. Slowly I am feeling better; hope it continues!


February 25, 2007

Hornillos del Camino

Today I walked 20k to Hornillos del Camino. It was and is cold! Although tiring it was lovely to be alone up on the path crossing the hills. Only two other pilgrims here; an American guy who has walked all over and another German who has just begun. There is no restaurant open so he will share my food. I'll skip a shower and wear my knitted hat to bed. It is VERY cold without any heat.


February 26, 2007


Following quick cups of cocoa in the bitterly cold kitchen the German and I set out. The landscape was frozen; all color reduced to gray, beige and palest green beneath a milky sky. A strong, icy wind blew from the west. After 10k crossing this bleak landscape we arrived at this tiny village, Hontanas. It was too early to stop at the municipal albergue. Nothing else was open, but the sun at last appeared. Slowly the path levelled becoming much easier. Another 10k and we arrived at Castrojeriz. He went to a hotel and I found a small private albergue which has just opened this morning. Back windows are stuffed with old newspapers, but the young Spanish guys who run it are thrilled to host their first pilgrim, me!


February 27, 2007

Itero de la Vega

As usual during past Caminos I ate a delicious breakfast at La Taberna in Castrojeriz. It is a friendly place with great food. Next came the steep ascent up the Mostelares plateau. However, the gravel path is broad and the panorama from the top is superb! Alone with my thoughts I crossed the high pass. After 10k at Itero de la Vega I stopped at a private albergue on the east of town. This is a dormitory space within a simple inn. There are no other pilgrims. Took a long hot shower.


February 28, 2007


It rained during the night and the path was wet this morning. All will be flat for the next days. Now the province is Palencia. The 15 k walk to Fromista was easy and picturesque partly following the Canal de Castilla. Re-visted the wonderful Romanesque church. Staying in a clean, cheap, well-blanketed pension with good food. Bliss!


March 1, 2007

Carrion de los Condes

I felt better today. Did 20k across flat countryside to Carrion de los Condes. Only the constant wind from the west was a problem. Stopped at Villalcazar de Sirga on the way, but the Templar church, Santa Maria la Blanca, was closed. The 13th c Convent of Santa Clara were I stayed before is being renovated. Wandering about this historic town is always rewarding. Tonight I am in the snug parish albergue with a few other pilgrims. Now that March has arrived more pilgrims should be traveling.


March 2, 2007

Calzadilla de la Cueza

The 18 k to Calzadilla de la Cueza was bleak, flat and very windy. Much of the straight path follows an old Roman road which once linked Bordeaux and Astorga. After lunch in the local bar-restaurant, I relaxed alone in the municipal albergue. Niki sent an email; she has made it to Leon! At least thirty years younger than I, she can walk much faster than I. Ah, youth. ...A new group of Spanish pilgrims has just arrived in the dark. Hopefully some heat will also arrive soon. It is cold in here!


March 3, 2007


Quite a day! Hiked 24 k against the wind to Sahagun. Had a delicious lunch at Casa Barrunta in the village of San Nicolas where I have stopped before. Then the "fun" began. From the highway which parallels the Camino a horn honked several times. One Spanish pilgrim from last night rushed across the road. She explained that a Portugese guy wearing camouflage was walking and a criminal. For my safety she offered a ride. I said thanks but I would continue to walk. Within 10 minutes I heard someone behind on the gravel path. Bingo! It was a young guy wearing pink and grey camouflage! We look at each other. I say "Hola!"; he grunts and passes. Arriving at the municipal albergue I try to explain the situation to the hospitalero. She gives me a key to lock myself in. The place is huge and I am alone. Time passes. While in the loo I hear heavy footsteps mounting the stairs. Nervously I investigate. Two big cops and two pilgrims with bikes have arrived! "Senora, we brought you some protection" said the cops. We all laughed and shook hands... Now to sleep!


March 4, 2007

El Burgo Ranero

Happily the rest of last night was uneventful! After we shared breakfast the bikers and I shook hands and parted. I walked 18 k to El Burgo Ranero which has many adobe structures. For a bit the weather was so warm that I removed my jacket. Bugs flew about and some dandelions were in bloom! Has spring arrived? The municipal albergue is crowded with a noisy group of French adults who constantly and loudly tell each other how uncomfortable they feel! Twas ever thus.


March 5, 2007

Mansilla de las Mulas

Walked 18 k to Mansilla de las Mulas. On the western horizon lie the snow-topped mountains to come. In the crowded municipal albergue the friendly hospitalero remembered me from past Caminos. Many pilgrims are about; several of us shared a jolly common supper in the attractive kitchen. Yesterday's French are still grumbling! I need a shower but it is too cold; spring has not arrived after all.


March 6,7, 2007


It was a long, cold 17 k slog in the rain to Leon. Also it was dangerous since the Camino crosses a very busy highway. Dashing amidst the traffic was nerve wracking! What a relief to get to this calm albergue run by the Santa Maria de Carvajal nuns. Since it is the "slow season" I am allowed to stay two nights.

After washing all my hiking clothes I wandered about town and revisited the magnificent Gothic cathedral. Within that vast dim mysterious interior the jewel-toned stained glass is glorious. I also visited the San Marcos Monastery which was built as a pilgrims' hospital in the 16th century. Covered in scallop shells this sumptuous riverside structure today is a super-deluxe parador. After viewing the unique cloister garden I treated myself to a thick hot chocolate. Delicious!


March 8, 2007

San Martin del Camino

Rested after my day "off" today I did 24 k to San Martin del Camino where I'm in the private albergue Ana. All is under renovation but at least the roof is up! The electricity was off at the Villadrangos albergue so I had to come here. Two Spanish guys are only other pilgrims. Ate a good lunch at the usual hotel in Villadrangos. My face is very rosy from sunshine and wind! Feel happy and stronger.


March 9, 2007


Did 26 k in brilliant sunshine to Astorga. Passed through Hospital de Orbigo where after my fall during Camino 1 I was helped by such kind, local "angels". Today I met a nice young German couple who had each searched on the Internet for a walking companion. He talked about going to Jerusalem some day. She was so surprised to learn that I am 67, that she took my photo! Perhaps the caption should read "Never stop trying"!Tonight I am staying the wonderful municipal albergue on the east of the city. It opened today and I am their first woman pilgrim! The exuberant hospitalero actually met me on the street and invited me in! Its a great renovation of an ex-convent. What comfort!


March 10, 2007

Santa Catalina de Somoza

Spent the morning sightseeing in Astorga. Visited the Archbishop's palace designed by Gaudi in his unique Art Nouveau style. Today it houses a museum for the Camino. Much use is made of 19th century stained glass and decorative clay tiles. Superb!

...I walked on towards the Maragato region and the mountains. Tried to stay in the nice private albergue in Murias de Rechivaldo but it was closed; the municipal one was a mess. While eating lunch I asked advice. The chef-patron knew a place in Santa Catalina de Somoza. Now I am here in a small private albergue above a bar. Clean, cheap, warm and friendly, its perfect!


March 11, 2007

Rabanal del Camino

Today's weather was glorious, warm with a clear blue sky. Walked about 7 k alonq a dirt track to Rabanal del Camino. Slowly the path is climbing as it crosses the orange colored earth towards the mountains. I am in the crowded private albergue. All the other pilgrims seem to have tons of baggage. Perhaps they did not carry it, but used a service. Only one loo seems to be in service. But "mind over bladder" I shall continue to say and,hopefully, stay. Last year, however, diarrhea necessitated that I move to a small hotel for the comforting convenience of private facilities.


March 12, 2007

El Acebo

Did a nice walk alone of about 16 k over the mountains to El Acebo. The views from the top at 1504 meters were splendid. Stopped for tea at a new private albergue in the ruined village of Foncebadon. They have done a great job of rebuilding. Perhaps some year I'll stay there. At the Cruz de Ferro I threw a stone from home onto the immense pile. As pilgrims have done for centuries I too gave thanks and then wept. ... Now I am in another private albergue above a pleasant restaurant. Talked with a few Polish pilgrims. Tired, but rightly so.


March 13, 2007


Walked 15 k down from the mountains in glorious sunshine. Since much of the descending trail is very steep and crosses rock, I followed the road until Molinasecca. There during my second breakfast another older solitary pilgrim "joined" me at table. He was Polish and extremely reticent. Although he seemed to understand both French and English we had no conversation. Now I am in the large municipal albergue in Ponferrada. About 15 pilgrims are here including the Pole. Many of the others who arrived by train are just starting their Caminos. When they learned that I have been walking more than a month alone in winter they were quite impressed!


March 14, 2007

Villafranca del Bierzo

The sun was actually hot today. Removed my jacket while crossing the vineyards;perhaps Spring has arrived! Gently climbed 23k to Villafranca del Bierzo. Staying in the rather casual private albergue next to the small church of Santiago. During the Middle Ages pilgrims too ill to continue were granted absolution at the famous church door, the 'Puerta del Pardon'.Had a delicious dinner in a nearby new restaurant appropriately named the 'Puerta del Perdon' ; it was only 10 euros and superb! What a bargain!


March 15, 2007


It was a long, tiring walk of 20k in hot sunshine to get to Ruitelan. This serene private albergue, Pequeno Portalo, has a Buddhist flavor. There are only 4 others pilgrims. Everything is very clean and Internet is available. By candlelight we shared a delicious copious dinner cooked by the helpful hospitalero. I ate a lot to have energy for the big climb tomorrow. Slightly nervous.


March 16, 2007

Alto del Poio

A long, tiring day treking into the province of Galicia. Walked the old highway to Pedrafita and then up to the mythic O Cebreiro in fog and a cold rain. Cried as I said my thanks within the tiny, legendary church. It so special that I hated to leave. After a welcome hot lunch I continued since the municipal albergue is closed for renovation. Now I am in a room over a basic roadside bar at Alto del Poio. It is cold but there are piles of blankets. Very tired and in bed before 7pm!


March 17, 2007


Walked 20k down to Triacastela in glorious weather. It was easy and the views towards the west were superb!I am staying in the same private albergue, Berco do Camino, as last year. It is warm, very clean and a great value! The owners also have a small bar-restaurant almost next door. Internet is free. Now after a good lunch and hot shower I can really relax!


March 18, 2007


Mist and pale sun on the path this morning. Did an easy 9k to Samos. Ate a delicious lunch at the restaurant A Veiga on the western edge of town where I ate before. Now I am in the monastery albergue. Attended evening vespers. All the Benedictine monks wore black habits. Other full size images of monks were painted on the walls. In the dim light the atmosphere was surreal! There is no heat; there never has been any since construction in the 16th century! Angels are painted above on the dorm's vaulted ceiling. Since I am truly shivering with cold, their wings appear to be quivering! Now to try to sleep.


March 19, 2007


Heavy rain as I walked 12k into Sarria. Arrived soaked at the handsome private albergue, O Durminento, where I also stayed last year. No other pilgrims seem to be here. The kind house-father cooked me a good late lunch. Washed all my clothes, took a hot shower and then had a long siesta in the heated dorm. True bliss, especially after last night!


March 20, 2007


The weather today was crazy;sleet and rain mixed with periods of sun. Did about 22k to Portomarin. Crossing the high bridge over the reservoir to get here was nerve-wracking so I walked in the middle of the bridge! Staying in the renovated municipal albergue. Many other pilgrims but all men. Met a guy from Costa Rica wearing sandals in sleet and snow! Now his feet are a mess. I am tired, but relaxed and content.


March 21, 2007

Palas de Rei

Did 24k down to Palas de Rei. Much of the path paralleled the highway. The vegetation has changed; now there is Spanish broom and heather. Also passed many 'horreos' or raised corn-cribs typical of Galicia. Went to the municipal albergue in the center of town, but I didn't stay. It was just too crowded with burping men! Now I am next door in the luxury of a tiny private room over a bar. Starting to plan the rest of my journey.


March 22, 2007


Walked with a Swedish pilgrim who has just begun. Hence, he is carrying too much and seems very nervous. One of the most important 'rules' of the Camino is to relax and 'let it be'. We stopped for a welcome second breakfast at the casa rurale Los Somozas in Coto. It is always very friendly towards pilgrims. Walked about 28k, but the way seemed easy. At Melide we shared a delicious lunch of polpo or octopus, the local specialty. Tonight the municipal albergue is cold so I will skip a shower.


March 23, 2007


Did an easy 14 k walk through eucalyptus woods to Arzua. Saw many primroses and violets blooming. Spring has truly arrived! Staying in the comfortable municipal albergue as usual. It is such a successful renovation of an old school: lots of old stone is handsomely combined with new slate. There are many pilgrims including an older Swiss guy who keeps muttering to himself.


March 24, 2007

Sobrado dos Monxes

Quite a day! Walked 22k on the North Camino to Sobrado dos Monxes. Am staying at the albergue within the Cistercian monastery. This complex is a Baroque masterpiece, but my dorm is a actually a renovated stable; no other pilgrims are here and it is freezing! Earlier I wandered through the other structures in awe. Attended Vespers with one other 'outsider'. The service was held in a splendid circular contemporary space. All was either painted white or natural wood and lit by thick candles. The monks wore their white robes and responded in unison. It was truly timeless and memorable.


March 25, 2007


Sunny weather after a cold night at the monastery. Retraced my route to return to Arzua. Had a good lunch at the bar nearby where I usually go. Tonight the albergue is crowded with Spanish cyclists.


March 26, 2007


Dense fog this morning so it was difficult to see the trail. However the 18k to Arca were easy, passing through woods of eucalyptus and fern. Had a good pilgrim lunch at the O Pino restaurant where I ate on past trips. Staying in the rather bleak municipal albergue; it is crowded. No heat so no shower for me. Hard to imagine that tomorrow I will arrive in Santiago!


March 27,28, 2007

Santiago de Compostela

Santiago de Compostela after 7 weeks walking!! Visited the pilgrims' office and cried as I received my third precious certificate. Staying in the Libredon Barbrantes hostal in a tiny attic room. It is so close to the cathedral that I can see the towers from my ceiling window as well as hear the great bells chime. Perfect! Nearby is the wonderful Cafe Casino where I always eat. After a shower I went to the cathedral to give thanks and sat silently in the dim interior for a long time...Today at noon I attended the Pilgrim Mass. It was beautifully sung by the same nun as last year. Since this is Lent it was an 'austere' service without any choir or swinging of the famous Botafumeiro censier. Again at twilight I returned to sit alone in the nave at peace.


March 29, 2007


Left Santiago in the rain and without breakfast which a mistake. Started walking towards Finisterre on the Atlantic coast. At times the trail was muddy and steep, but I made it. Now after 19k I am in Negreira at the pleasant municipal albergue. There are about 20 other pilgrims. All seem surprised at my age and determination. Wet ponchos and clothes are dripping all over. One guy from Holland made soup for everyone. Going to bed early because tomorrow will be hard.


March 30, 2007


An unbelievable day! Walked 33k in rain to get to Olveiroa! One of the hardest days ever on any of my Caminos; almost as exhausting as the first time up to Roncevalles!! This municipal albergue is a very successful renovation of stone farm buildings. Many pilgrims are here; we all shared a common supper cooked by the kind hospitalero. She remembered me from last year. Now to sleep.


March 31, 2007


Pleasant walk of 21k across stoney hills and burnt moors to get to Corcubion. We are the same group of pilgrims as last night and again we shared a common supper. Thank goodness the weather was dry although windy. From atop the last hill far in the distance I glimpsed the silver sea. Magic.


April 1, 2007


Trail's end! In hazy sunshine I walked alone the last 8k along the shore to Finisterre. Went out to the lighthouse at 'the edge of the world'. On the great barren rocks by the boot sculpture I sat in the wind watching the sea, silently gave thanks and wept.

As always I loved the journey...





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